Rearanger
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2008
- Messages
- 1,429
- Reaction score
- 23
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Southeast USA
- Vehicle Year
- 2003
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
So I'm the guy who couldn't see the use in replacing the clutch fan - until now.
I did this because I could not get the engine to heat up to 195* temp and the long time (especially in winter) to get to temp after starting. I've had a couple of stats in but no change. I have both an aftermarket digital engine temp gauge and I can monitor the ECT sensor on my ScanGauge - the ECT runs about 5* hotter, probably because of location.
The fan I chose is a TYC 621860 (assembly) which is a direct replacement for a 2008 - 2010 Chrysler Town & Country 3.3L V6. Someone on this forum had used the same fan. I wanted something that would fit inside my factory shroud and this fan was perfect. You'll need to cut most of the TYCs shroud away to get only the center part and the fan. You can see by the picture how well it fits. No modification the the factory Ford shroud is necessary.
I used some speed nuts (#8 Wide - ACP) and 8x5/8 panel screws (SMS Black), which can be sourced at Lowes, and custom pieces of galvanized sheet to mount.
The controller is a Flex-a-Lite part # 91163 (HERE) variable speed with 60% soft start and 60% AC. I used a lower rad hose adapter for the 1/4 NPT temp sensor. I can adjust the turn on temp with the small adjusting screw on the controller. Flex-a-Lite provides all the necessary wire and connectors, but the connectors are very cheap. I replaced with quality shrink connectors and substituted the controller connectors with lower profile Flag style. Use a professional crimper. Mounting the controller on top of the fan shroud is perfect for heat and access.
I chose to install the temp sensor in the lower rad hose because that's where my Camry's factory fan temp switch is. The Camry's has always worked well and the fans only come on when idling stopped. Flex-a-Lite recommends upper rad hose or engine mount, but then you're sensing the stat set temp which I think will trip the fan more. I can monitor the operation with the engine temp gauges.
I was able to use an "Add-a-Circuit fuse adapter in the O2 heater circuit fuse in the under hood fuse box. Some modification of the box cover is necessary to close the cover due to the height of the Add-a-Circuit adapter. The fan fuse holder was mounted to the ABS bracket with a plate and a couple of metal screws.
One common minor fault of the soft start control is the fan motor will growl momentarily on start up, but the sound is almost imperceptible when standing next to the engine. This growling seems to be only with the single large fans, the doubles don't seem to do it - maybe because of fan mass.
Engine is much quieter - don't care about any power or mileage gain, but I imagine little if any. I can keep track of mileage as I have several years of average calculations in a spread sheet.
Total cost was $75 for fan assembly and $150 for the controller. Lower rad hose adapter was about $15. Did this in less than a weekend.
I did this because I could not get the engine to heat up to 195* temp and the long time (especially in winter) to get to temp after starting. I've had a couple of stats in but no change. I have both an aftermarket digital engine temp gauge and I can monitor the ECT sensor on my ScanGauge - the ECT runs about 5* hotter, probably because of location.
The fan I chose is a TYC 621860 (assembly) which is a direct replacement for a 2008 - 2010 Chrysler Town & Country 3.3L V6. Someone on this forum had used the same fan. I wanted something that would fit inside my factory shroud and this fan was perfect. You'll need to cut most of the TYCs shroud away to get only the center part and the fan. You can see by the picture how well it fits. No modification the the factory Ford shroud is necessary.
I used some speed nuts (#8 Wide - ACP) and 8x5/8 panel screws (SMS Black), which can be sourced at Lowes, and custom pieces of galvanized sheet to mount.
The controller is a Flex-a-Lite part # 91163 (HERE) variable speed with 60% soft start and 60% AC. I used a lower rad hose adapter for the 1/4 NPT temp sensor. I can adjust the turn on temp with the small adjusting screw on the controller. Flex-a-Lite provides all the necessary wire and connectors, but the connectors are very cheap. I replaced with quality shrink connectors and substituted the controller connectors with lower profile Flag style. Use a professional crimper. Mounting the controller on top of the fan shroud is perfect for heat and access.
I chose to install the temp sensor in the lower rad hose because that's where my Camry's factory fan temp switch is. The Camry's has always worked well and the fans only come on when idling stopped. Flex-a-Lite recommends upper rad hose or engine mount, but then you're sensing the stat set temp which I think will trip the fan more. I can monitor the operation with the engine temp gauges.
I was able to use an "Add-a-Circuit fuse adapter in the O2 heater circuit fuse in the under hood fuse box. Some modification of the box cover is necessary to close the cover due to the height of the Add-a-Circuit adapter. The fan fuse holder was mounted to the ABS bracket with a plate and a couple of metal screws.
One common minor fault of the soft start control is the fan motor will growl momentarily on start up, but the sound is almost imperceptible when standing next to the engine. This growling seems to be only with the single large fans, the doubles don't seem to do it - maybe because of fan mass.
Engine is much quieter - don't care about any power or mileage gain, but I imagine little if any. I can keep track of mileage as I have several years of average calculations in a spread sheet.
Total cost was $75 for fan assembly and $150 for the controller. Lower rad hose adapter was about $15. Did this in less than a weekend.
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