Removing driveshafts

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

Is there a sticky/best how to on removing rear driveshaft? Yeah, that tink tink noise I've been hearing was the u-joints giving way and the awful vibration noise I heard the other night was the driveshaft falling down onto the yoke but she got me home by George!

I know it's just 8 bolts looks like to me (PB Blaster on them now), but I also need to know best practices like:

mark it so it keeps balance
chalk wheels
jack it up or not so I can spin the rear end?

I am not dumb, just inexperienced - once I get into it I'll get it done but to heck if I can find anyone removing drive shafts the same 2 ways...

adsm08 · Jan 11, 2014

Chock the wheels, put it in 4x4 and lock the hubs in you can, leave the trans in gear. Break all the bolt that you can access loose and take them out about half way, then take it out of gear, jack the back up and spin the shaft until you can get to the last ones, and let it down, put it back in gear, and break the last ones loose.

Don't work the wrench with your hands, use your feet at first. I have, in extreme cases, also found it helpful to start the engine and have someone hold the brakes. That was an extreme case where I was turning the engine over with a 12mm wrench on a driveshaft bolt though. :shok:

Heat can help, but don't get things too hot. It is recommended to mark the driveshaft to orientation, but I have rarely found cases where that was actually needed. Most units are balanced to where it's not critical, especially on a one-piece driveshaft. Two-piece units are a bit more important to keep in phase.

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

this is what i've got...looks period correct for an 85?

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

12mm on the back and what size on the front bolts? It's smaller than a 3/8...

Stupid question - why would I not just remove the 4 bolts on the rear and slide it out of the transfer case or does this one not work that way like some of the other videos I've seen?

adsm08 · Jan 11, 2014

I have never dealt with the factory U-jont drive shaft in a BII. Mine is the only Bronco II I have ever worked on, and it has the CV shaft.

It looks correct. I don't know if it will just slide out or not. There may be a bolt holding that flange in the transfer case.

bobbywalter · Jan 11, 2014

many have slip shafts. theres 3....well technically 4 styles that i know of.

the front at the t case output may have the 27 torx, but some are 8mm button with no torx.

looks to be the hirider style fixed yoke case as well.

i have made many tools to get them out, as in some cases they have never been out before.

swynx · Jan 11, 2014

12mm 12 point. .. there is an actual drive shaft bolt tool. Never used it heard its way better tho. Cuz while installing every thing is in the way.

If you have to use a breaker bar there's next to no room for one. I didn't use 4x4. Undid 2 bolts at a time then put in neutral. Spun shaft. Put back in gear. ... you'll need a jack or the alike to hold it up while you bolt it back in.

Also when putting it back. I Jacked up the rear end so I could get the rear axle to match the bolts.

Torque to 55? Ft lbs.

bobbywalter · Jan 11, 2014

on that style the front of the rear shaft should be 8 mm 12 point....the rear he already knew was 12mm.

but sometime different bolts are used over replacement/maint

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

2 bolts off, broke shoulder, hands busted...yay! 6 more...why would they use such small bolts...bigger bolt heads would mean bigger wrenches and that would have to be easier...got the 3ft breaker bar out but there's just no room...

adsm08 · Jan 11, 2014

Because they design cars to be put together, not to be taken apart.

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

Alright! System down...breaker bar and the other 2 on the rear was a lot easier...now to the front...

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

When I get these 4 off...slide which way - toward the rear or toward the front...don't wanna screw this up.

Is this one of the drive shafts that I HAVE TO TAKE THE FRONT 4 BOLTS OFF OR IS IT ONE THAT I REMOVE THE REAR 4 ONLY AND SLIDE IT OFF?

Darn manual isn't very useful!

adsm08 · Jan 11, 2014

When you get the rear free grab the shaft at the front joints and pull. If it gives any resistance at all it has to be unbolted. Since there is a slip-joint in the middle of the shaft it is highly likely that that rear t-case output is fixed.

If it would slide off at the t-case it would have a double slip yoke, which I don't think I have ever seen before.

bobbywalter · Jan 11, 2014

no slip yoke at case.....should be four 8mm 12 pt.

compress in either direction and plop out

tidmarshsmiths5 · Jan 11, 2014

Here's the culprit...dumb idea but I'm looking to save money...go ahead and get the 3 replaced at one time or just do the one that's broke right now...any idea what a decent driveshaft shop would charge me to press all 3 out and put new back in?

And y'all were right - no slip yoke at case.

Removing driveshafts

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