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volume of air question


Wicked_Sludge

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because the 3.0 still redlines at a relitivly low 5,500 RPM. unless you modify the valvetrane to make higher RPM dashes safer/easier on the motor, you'll never loose an appriciable amount of power from an intake tuned to provide respectable torque in the driving range RPMs.

while i agree the 3.0's stock intake is a "little" anemic for an engine that doesnt make its peak power until 5,000RPM, the choke point lies in the plenum, lower intake, and TB, not the MAF, plastic hose between the TB and MAF, or air filter.
 


2004ranger

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but you have a 93 the 04+ have smaller maf housings then all the other rangers. basically it amounts to less mm then your throttle body so even if you do all of that stuff it will still be a choke factor.
 

Wicked_Sludge

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its been a while since ive looked at the MAF on a newer truck...but i dont seem to remember them being any smaller than any other year...at least not by enough to matter.
 

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but you have a 93 the 04+ have smaller maf housings then all the other rangers. basically it amounts to less mm then your throttle body so even if you do all of that stuff it will still be a choke factor.
have you flow tested the intake setups?
 

2004ranger

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No but considering that the Stock MAF housing with the sensor in equals to about 38-40mm of space. only so much air can move through it seems like it would be quite restrictive even with the 50mm throttle body. now if you did everything port and polished and the 60mm throttle body you still wouldn't be able to flow as much air as you would like through that 38-40mm space. If you did all that it still wouldn't matter since that Maf housing would be the choke point.
 

4x4fun

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whats done is done on my truck and i like it and it makes it mine so sorry if i started all this. but i was just thinking. on stock maf housing can only flow a set value with a given dia. at %100 effective. now you lose flo capasity from turblance. so air is swriling around the bumper then goes into the air box swirls and goes up 90 degrees then thro the filter then swirls to bend another 90 degress then its right thur the maf and goes down then intake.

wiht all that air flow disruption, wouldnt it casue problems trying to get %100 percetn effective. now it you got rid of the air box and moved then maf further up the intake wouldnt it let the air flow smother wiht less disruption. leting you get more air becaue its all in an orderly patern.

kinda like the 2 soda bottles attachech to each other. making the swirling patern. you get more flow when its orginazed.
 

Rearanger

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now it you got rid of the air box and moved then maf further up the intake wouldnt it let the air flow smother wiht less disruption. leting you get more air becaue its all in an orderly patern.
Getting laminar flow as opposed to turbulent flow reduces restriction. Does it matter? Only if the demand from the engine needs that extra flow. You'd have to believe that Ford designed an engine needing the flow of two nostrils, but chose to plug one nostril with stock intake.
 

2004ranger

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I didnt say anything about the choices you made with your truck im sure the K&N will work fine but just stating weak points later on down the road if you decide to open it up a bit.
 

rurouni20xx

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truly amazing

this is amazing to see this go on and on, myself i own a 93 ranger 4wd 3.0 like sludges, but the engine went out at 278600 miles so im looking around pondering options to my trk and stumbled upon this interesting forum topic. ive seen the tb and maf mods just never thought to try them. personally i went to autozone purchased some air duct material and the attachment deals w/ hose clamps, and an "intimidator" k&n filter copy all for 50 bux, moved my IAS into the hose behind the MAF and bought the plastic flat to round adapter plate and siliconed/bolted it to the MAF. this combined w/ the a/c removal (had pinhole in line not paying 600 bux to fix something i dont even use) and high flow cat w/ 2 65 dollar fart cans side by side underneath the rear bumper made a hell of a difference. i dont know the hp but my a4ld was equipped w/ a tranny limiter meaning i couldnt go into 4th gear at 80% or more throttle, and when i say it took 38 seconds to reach that limiter stock and only 21 seconds after mods to get to top speed of my needle touching the OD indicator since the speedo only reads 85 i mean it. im planning on rebuilding the engine w/ a 3.3L morana kit if oversize pistons are available and it has h beam rods, do you recommend the tb and maf mods? granted sludge knows what im talking about when i say my intake and tb is one piece and if so i need another one cuz my throttle hangs up over 70% due to wear if that tells you how much i rap my motor. one other thing, if i get h beam rods and can get that crank forged how do i increase my redline since my engine can take the beating and how do i get rid of the speed limiter? i realize id have to do a double valvespring kit to due away w/ valve float, and is there a shift kit or programmer for the a4ld tranny available? its my street rod since the 4wd doesnt work anymore....lol
 

ian_12

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sorry to bump this but didnt want to start a new thread for this, but which maf are people using on the 3.0? if it makes a difference, it is the restrictive 06 maf. now i dont need people preaching to me about volume/velocity or anything else like some have done on here. ive got plenty of experience and done a lot with cars including full standalones, complete rebuilds (even custom one off cvh 1.9l), trans rebuilds, turbo builds, and so much more.


i just dont see how i cant find what maf people have been using. oh, and i laughed at some of the things people said. more power=increased fuel consumption? :icon_rofl: . yeah, i know. new guy on here, but that is definitely funny to me reading that.
 

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