Did I just put the flexplate on backwards?!?

adsm08 · Jan 26, 2015

You aren't doing something stupid like tucking the inspection plate behind the block plate are you?

Dweano · Jan 26, 2015

Only one plate. I don't believe there was a spacer plate. There is nothing extra leftover. And I think it got aligned right. I couldn't have tightened it if it was caught on something. The starter seemed like the teeth would barely hit or not hit the flexplate at all. I guess I could bolt it up and short circuit it to see if it spins by itself or spins the flex plate.

I am pretty sure I did not put the inspection plate on under. But then again I was pretty rattled becuase I thought I pooched everything up. Next time I head out to the shop I will doubl check. Maybe my own stupidity is the problem haha

RonD · Jan 26, 2015

"Nothing extra leftover"

!!!! and you call yourself a DIYer, lol.

Just kidding, but for some reason I always have leftover parts.
Still can't figure out where that VW engine came from, trip over it all the time, I think it was from under the grill of an F-350 I rebuilt, but can't remember.

Dweano · Jan 26, 2015

Haha I know I know...so what is the general consensus? Crack it apart and see if I can seat the torque converter in further??

RonD · Jan 26, 2015

I would say no, it is what it is at this point, as far as the transmission.

Inspection plate and starter motor would be what to figure out

Dweano · Feb 1, 2015

Well I put the starter on and it started fine. Left the inspection plate off and nothing hit or grinded. I think I did it alright and it was just hard to turn for some reason. I tried turning it without the plate on and was tough too. So I think it was just...the way it is. My compression must be too good

So there was no problem there really...but with this new tranny...it doesn't wanna move. Forward or back....my curse continues

bobbywalter · Feb 2, 2015

you poor bass tad...

did you ever unplug the first one and check for solid 2nd gear and reverse??

when you install one of these, you mate the block and trans with no binding at all....and the torque converter should have about a 1/8 inch of back and forth and be able to bang it on the plate and side to side in its mounting holes when you grab the stud before you torque the trans to the engine. this ensures the converter is in the pump correctly. if you have to use the trans bolts to keep it all together to check this your doing it wrong.

when you dont know this is seated right for sure or suspect you fawked up, you remove the fawking thing and inspect the converter drive and the pump gear....

you do this every time you suspect an issue. popping a new gear in before rotating and fawking it up is real easy to do and costs nearly nothing and you will have a trans that is not destroyed for no good reason.

if you have filled it correctly and it dont move at all with it unplugged something is wrong...like a broken pump or blown forwards....fragged converter....

just bring it to my house.

Dweano · Feb 2, 2015

Yeah I did rush it...I effed up. Getting the tranny up and in is a two person job (for me at least) and I didn't have anyone to help me. So I just went with it because if I took it out I couldn't get it back up. I honestly thought it was lined up right because I only had to use the tranny bolts to suck in the one dowel on the one side. The other slid in and I thought it was just a bit crooky causing the pin to bind...

Can you expand on the 3rd paragraph? For next time

haha. I didn't have to use the torque converter bolts to suck the TC up to the flexplate. That all slid into place.

How does one check the pump gear and converter drive? For next time of course

I did unplug the first one and still no change. No forward movement at all.

I would bring it to your house...if it wasn't so far away

bobbywalter · Feb 2, 2015

orfordguy@yahoo.com said:
take the convertor out and shake it.. if it rattles or bangs its broken replace it..
put the trans in neutral and turn the input shaft by hand and see if it binds up... thatll get you close.. the input will be stiff to move but shouldn't actually stop or jam.

these converters bang...and can rattle a bit. they have a clutch in them

bobbywalter · Feb 2, 2015

i would not throw in the towel just yet.

i hate seeing shit like this, bad thing about the interwebz...too far is too easy.

theres flats on the converter snout that engage and drive the pump. in this case the clutch in the converter can get toasted too. the aod is a bit different then the 70 in this respect. the pilot hub on the converter and the crank pilot seat can cause issues as well.

i do this on my back alone almost exclusively. these days, i am crippled up pretty good(cant outrun or hide from time). so now i know what its like for normal people to do this kind of silly shit, and i dont like it. so i can understand the suck of fitting it up...i did not realize i was not so normal before i guess. you just have to plan it out with the jack/jacks straps or whatever and be real patient

whats the story on the trans? is it possible it was bad? if the gear was backwards and is smashed its a potential....

look inside the seal at the pump gear and the flats and see if theres obvious bad marks.

Dweano · Feb 13, 2015

The tranny should be good (or was) the guy drove it before he pulled the engine for his mustang. And I trust him. So this weekend I will crack it apart (if i get shop time) and see what I can see...will report back!

Dweano · Mar 3, 2015

Alright so I will need a pump almost guaranteed right? I have been looking around and there seems to be slight variations in pump types. Which do I need for a 4r70w from a 97 explorer?

Dweano · Mar 23, 2015

Well the shop space cleared up and me and a buddy dropped the tranny in about two hours...I am getting pretty good at this now haha.

The converter snubs look alright. There is a slight burr on it which I believe can be filed odd (no metal is really damaged)...inside the pump it looked... crappy. Its hard to tell in the 1/8" space that the converter slips into...but it looked like there was oily metal dust...if that makes sense? As if something was ground in there. I tried to get pics but you can't get a pic of that small gap

Any advice internet? I am thinking the pump is fried. How can one tell if the converter is good?

This whole experience is actually teaching me quite a bit... two people and two jacks made things alot easier haha, also patience...and now I know that the tranny should just slip together...not get pulled (also at the pins tho? Could those not be binding a bit?)

bobbywalter · Mar 23, 2015

well the pins are always bastardheads.... basically you want to be able to get it loose on those and start the bolts by hand till they are secure and then push it up tight by hand and if the tc is not bound up go ahead and draw the bolts up.

if i could do it with you one time you would know exactly when where why....but i can not.

i just dont want you drawing the bell to the block with the bolts from a 1inch away... thats where the snap crackle pops get worse.

one thing though, measure and or remove the flexplate and make sure the tc snout fits the crank pilot hole. i have seen some variance before.

i usually just fit the converter up by itself to check that with two nuts on the engine if theres any doubts at all.

yes.....patience is a big factor. sometimes you just need to walk away and get a pint or go shoot at things in the target range till you feel better....... :thefinger:

Dweano · Mar 24, 2015

Last time there the pins were touching. So I figured I would just suck em in with the bolts. Next time I will be more careful. I will also test the torque converter fit too tho.

So when the tranny and torque converter is all bolted up I should be able to spin the whole thing from the crank without resistance (besides the obvious motor friction and whatnot?)

But all signs are pointing to me replacing the pump right? I am too scared to make my own decisions now haha

Did I just put the flexplate on backwards?!?

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