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Truck wont crank.


jarfly

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have a 2001 2wd 2.3 16v, I shut the truck off and went to start back and no crank. Put new starter on and still no crank. I have checked all fuses (there good) can cross the starter over and truck will crank but nothing when I turn key. Allso bypassing the safety switch ( pink & white/pink wires)
what could cause this?
 


RonD

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2001 Ranger with 2.3l Duratec engine has PATS(passive anti-theft system) which can disable starter motor if PATS ignition key doesn't pass "test" when key is turned on.
BUT...........you should get a Rapid Flashing "Theft light" on the dash

Check fuse #26 in cab fuse box, 10amp, its for the Theft light, but also powers GEM and dash

Also check Fuse #24 in cab fuse box, 7.5amp, 12v passes thru there when key is turned to START


You have TWO starter relays, the one that is on the starter motor itself, and there is one in the engine fuse box, it activates the one on the starter motor.
The Starter Relay in the fuse box is the one that is GROUNDED by the Computer if PATS key passes the "test".
It is a standard automotive 12v relay, so you could swap it with AC relay, for example, but these rarely fail.

Power path for 12volt side
Battery-----ignition switch-----Fuse #24----neutral/clutch switch------------Starter Relay(engine fuse box)--------starter relay(on starter motor)


If you bypassed neutral switch use a test light or voltmeter on that wire to make sure it has 12v when key is turned to START, if not recheck Fuse #24
 

d.gutierrez69

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2001 Ranger with 2.3l Duratec engine has PATS(passive anti-theft system) which can disable starter motor if PATS ignition key doesn't pass "test" when key is turned on.
BUT...........you should get a Rapid Flashing "Theft light" on the dash

Check fuse #26 in cab fuse box, 10amp, its for the Theft light, but also powers GEM and dash

Also check Fuse #24 in cab fuse box, 7.5amp, 12v passes thru there when key is turned to START


You have TWO starter relays, the one that is on the starter motor itself, and there is one in the engine fuse box, it activates the one on the starter motor.
The Starter Relay in the fuse box is the one that is GROUNDED by the Computer if PATS key passes the "test".
It is a standard automotive 12v relay, so you could swap it with AC relay, for example, but these rarely fail.

Power path for 12volt side
Battery-----ignition switch-----Fuse #24----neutral/clutch switch------------Starter Relay(engine fuse box)--------starter relay(on starter motor)


If you bypassed neutral switch use a test light or voltmeter on that wire to make sure it has 12v when key is turned to START, if not recheck Fuse #24
I have the same problem Wyth my 1999 ford xlt 2.5 5 speed I've checked all fuses and nothing .
I have a jump start button on starter now and it runs, but no lights or dash lights temp gauge don't work.
I just disconnected the battery positive and ran a test light on positive to battery and lead to positive lead to engine and it kept flickering for almost an hour. Also I believe the gem was clicking in syncopation Wyth the flickering test light. Now test light is out and so is the clicking noise.
 

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