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Just changed TFI module need help


RonD

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If they test good they are good, especially 2 of them.

Coil could be dying out, these can be tested but often test OK and start failing when heated up.

I would not get another TFI module, Coil might be money better spent, and 3rd party are fine, $25-$35
 


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If they test good they are good, especially 2 of them.

Coil could be dying out, these can be tested but often test OK and start failing when heated up.

I would not get another TFI module, Coil might be money better spent, and 3rd party are fine, $25-$35

Thanks Ron

I will put the old Motorcraft TFI back on and get a coil and new plug wires from Napa. I hope that fixes it
 

Kenny97527

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Any update on this?
 

Mark_88

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I think there is another thread that the OP started to continue this in a new direction...but don't think there was a final fix on it...

Click on the OPs user name and you will get a menu drop down...select "find more posts..." look for a later date...
 

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Any update on this?
Kenny

I have a couple threads on this issue sorry I should had kept it one thread. I changed all the items the last ditch effort was cleaning out the FPR vaccume tube plenum fitting. It ran perfect for day's well l my long trip to town it was all up hill home some 45 miles. The lifters started hammering ticking water temp not real hot. I stopped at the station both lower and upper radiator hoses where sucked together. One thing no popping missing I let it cool open the radiator cap filled it let it run. It ran fine some 10 miles than popping again it ran like shit all the way home. The next day changed the cap fired it up fine no issues ran great two days the next day popping

I am burned out on this once it starts popping I just pull over let it sit sometimes it runs great some its still popping. This one mystery I can't figure out so help me
 

Mark_88

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This is the 1988, right? I went over this thread but didn't find what you have already done...kinda in a hurry to get out right now but can look later...

Did you ever change the MAP sensor? Now that I think about it...this is pretty close to what my 89 Tempo was doing...they put it on a scanner and found MAP sensor or O2 sensor possible causes...I changed the MAP and the issue cleared...it would only do it sporadically and usually only when the engine was warm...drove me nuts...well, that's only part of the reason...:)

Anyway...something to think about...back then I could find barrels full of MAP sensors in the junkyards...now it might be more challenging...and they are not cheap parts so I wouldn't suggest running out and buying another one unless you didn't change it.

But code scanning might show you a possible MAP error...but you are OBD-1 on this so takes a bit more to get codes...

Thanks for the feedback anyway...
 

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What Mark said. What little I have had to fix under the hood of the Rat has been frayed wire ends that crumbled when touched. Not a big fan of Accell products. Big Jeep apps were plagued with faulty or short lived products. I went with Belden plug wires . I would definitely replace 13 yr old wires.
 

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What Mark said. What little I have had to fix under the hood of the Rat has been frayed wire ends that crumbled when touched. Not a big fan of Accell products. Big Jeep apps were plagued with faulty or short lived products. I went with Belden plug wires . I would definitely replace 13 yr old wires.
Thanks Andy & Mark

I changed the plug wires,plugs,coil,Ignition Module,fuel pump,fuel filter, its still popping I feel it through the throttle peddle. If I put it to the floor it will run less popping but no power. It only does it after the truck gets to normal temp. I was thinking could the Temp sensor be making this issue? I did pull the vacuume hose off the MAP sensor the engine died right away
 

Mark_88

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I noticed a similarity between your symptoms and one for a member in the 4 banger section. I copied the link here for you and suggest you read through his trial and error part swapping and some of the things he has accomplished. He even posted a few videos of what his was doing so it might help your case.

He was also going from one set of symptoms to another and has it almost totally corrected...but that might change...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168461

Not sure if it will actually help but may trigger something or give you an idea...his symptoms were similar to the popping and no power but those seem to have been cleared...
 

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I noticed a similarity between your symptoms and one for a member in the 4 banger section. I copied the link here for you and suggest you read through his trial and error part swapping and some of the things he has accomplished. He even posted a few videos of what his was doing so it might help your case.

He was also going from one set of symptoms to another and has it almost totally corrected...but that might change...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168461

Not sure if it will actually help but may trigger something or give you an idea...his symptoms were similar to the popping and no power but those seem to have been cleared...


Mark again thanks for the help

I read through the link he is having a differaint issue mine is once it starts popping its 3mph or put it to the floor rev it up 7mph. Mine today I fired it up cold ran like crap engine jumping back and forth missing after 4min it cleared up runs fine real smooth. Now if I go on the highway its all up hill it runs great 65mph but once I start up it slows to 45mph almost make it to the crest than popping. Now once I get to the level part it picks up to 55mph but I floor it pooping. I take the off ramp as soon as I take off ramp stop and start moving pooping it wont stop until I get home. I know if I had no hills to climb it would run perfect. I don't know I am lost on this issue
 

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No problem...but no solution...

The other poster said his started out like that...popping all the time and hesitation...no power. After changing his fuel pump and a few other things he is down to popping only under load at high speeds.

I had to ask him to recap what he did and what effect if any it had...near the last page I was getting confused and I might have been thinking of your situation at the same time...but they do sound similar.

Getting bummed out is understandable...if I said that before it's becuase much has happened and my focus is not what it used to be...but maybe a good time to recap on yours if you have time. Make a list of the parts you've changed and if there has been any change in the symptoms...I've seen a few things that tell me like the other poster...it is not consistent to be a part...

Your ECT would give you startup issues like you are seeing but they would clear up once the engine is up to temp...yours sort of clears up and then comes back for no apparent reason. the Hoses getting sucked flat could mean your hoses are way past needing change...most have wires inside or coils to prevent that happening and the older ones may be rusted so bad they can't keep the hose open...unless you've changed them recently that would be needed.

I changed mine every few years...used to go to the junkyard and look for new hoses...as often happens the owners pump money into parts and something goes wrong...they toss everything...done it myself a few times.
 

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New issue guy's

Its still popping missing time to time but now it dies when coming to a stop its done it twice thus far. Now my alternator light has been going on and off its always done this for years. I just noticed it has a dim flickering in the alternator light now as I was going up a steep grade no but popping or missing at that time
 

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Flickering idiot lights is never a good thing. Time to break out the meter and check the alternator and battery voltage. If you don't have a digital volt/ohm meter that should be your first purchase ,instead of throwing parts at it. It will save you time and money. You should read 14+ volts across the battery posts with the engine at 1500 rpm . With the engine off you should see 12.5 volts. The engine will run on less than 12 volts, but it won't run right. Also bear in mind the 4 banger is no torque monster. :D

PS, If popping is other wise known as pinging, then I would suspect a lean condition. White spark plug tips would be an indication. Just for grins, put some high test in and see if it stops...
 
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Flickering idiot lights is never a good thing. Time to break out the meter and check the alternator and battery voltage. If you don't have a digital volt/ohm meter that should be your first purchase ,instead of throwing parts at it. It will save you time and money. You should read 14+ volts across the battery posts with the engine at 1500 rpm . With the engine off you should see 12.5 volts. The engine will run on less than 12 volts, but it won't run right. Also bear in mind the 4 banger is no torque monster. :D

PS, If popping is other wise known as pinging, then I would suspect a lean condition. White spark plug tips would be an indication. Just for grins, put some high test in and see if it stops...
Thanks Andy

I bought a tester with key off 12.50 engine running 14.49 even with the battery idiot light on. Thank god those alternators are $135+ not cheap mine is an 88 Ranger 2.9L I might change the MAP sensor the only thing I haven't changed. The popping is bad no power unless you floor it
 

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This is a long shot, but have you checked the timing on it? The popping you describe sounds to me like it could be a backfire. The low power reminds me of the Subaru Justy I had many years ago. With the timing set to spec, it wouldn't go over 50MPH. With the timing advanced, we got it to 70MPH.

There's another possibility that occurs to me, too. What octane is the fuel you're using? If your fuel octane is too low, your engine will ping.

I found some interesting info here: http://nastyz28.com/forum/threads/getting-pinging-under-load-is-this-timing-too-aggressive.157194/ It's a GM thread, but the information may still apply. He's pinging under load, too. And this: http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=4016.0 Another GM thread, but also pinging under load.

Hope this helps!
 

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