Back again with another issue

RonD · Aug 1, 2016

Reads like it only does this when warmed up.

'94 was the last year of 3.0l with distributor and TFI module spark system.

Have a read here, and test the TFI module: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

I would do a 50/50 test on it next time it stalls on you, if possible.
Get a can of Quick start(ether)
Next time it starts to stall try to get off the road before it does
Give it 1 try to restart, if no start then pop hood and pull PCV hose off the upper intake
Spray some ether into the intake and put PCV hose back on
Now try to start it
If it doesn't fire/start then spark is the problem
If it starts and dies then fuel is the problem.

50/50 test

RonD · Aug 1, 2016

Engines with distributors didn't have/need Crank position sensors, only distributorless engines needed them.
Crank position can be, and was, determined by distributor shaft position.

TFI module is technically an ICM(ignition control module) but was rarely called that, it was just called a TFI module.
Distributorless engines, like 2.3l and 4.0l, had ICMs, hooked to a crank sensor to set spark timing, but in 1995 ICMs were put inside the new model computers that were installed in Rangers that year, so no more ICM as a separate part.

TFI module is on the distributor, but is a separate piece, and often becomes heat sensitive, leading to misfires, stalling and no starts when warm
The Single Coil that was used with TFI could also get heat sensitive, although TFI module would be more likely if it is a spark issue and not a fuel issue

Blown · Aug 2, 2016

Sounds like TFI problems which I have experienced.

TFI=Thick Film Ignition or Truelly F'ed Ignition.

I found an inline resistor to it in my bronco which needed replacing and to which I believe was contributing to the problem. I beleive it to be a good idea to replace the pick-up along with the TFI.

Good luck with it.

little red ranger · Aug 23, 2016

Have you scanned for codes to see if any are stored,,, if you dont have a scanner and if it is OBD2 Autozone will scan it for free,, or at least they do here,, you can buy the ELM sacn tool ,,, I think it is on Amazon for 30 or 40 bucks and get a program called Forscan for free that works well with Windows,,, if it is OBD1 then a test light will make a redneck OBD1 scanner LOL

alwaysFlOoReD · Aug 24, 2016

My 91 ranger 4.0/5-speed had similar issues. I tried everything you have and had the same results. I finally used the computer from a 94 ranger 4.0/5-speed and haven't had an issue since. I took apart the original computer expecting to find some component burnt or some trace of something.... it looks completely good, but doesn't work. I tried it a couple of times because the 94 sits without it and is a pain in the ass to swap back and forth. If you have access to a spare computer, try it.

little red ranger · Aug 24, 2016

I am wondering if you got a bad TPS,,,, it would cause simular problems .............

RonD · Aug 24, 2016

1994 Ranger 3.0l was the last year of the distributors in Rangers.

They have a Hall Effect, 3 wire, sensor inside the distributor, it took the place of points, so not called a Crank sensor, or even a Cam sensor.
3.0l did get a Cam sensor that went in the same hole as distributor, in 1995
And in 1995 it also got a Crank sensor located on the crank behind main pulley

It is possible the bushings in the distributor are worn out and distributor shaft has a wobble, this could effect the sensor from detecting the correct timing or cause misfiring from rotor wobbling.
Usually you can see dark discoloration on the underside of distributor cap if sparks are arcing too much, also rotor tip shows signs of wear.

little red ranger · Aug 24, 2016

nice job there RonD,, I was going to post about the same thing and you beat me to it,,, learned about the hall effect the hard way a few years back,,, but it did not dawn on me to now when I read mtnrgr last post

Back again with another issue

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