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Dual fuel tanks


Jimmyrig

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I picked up an 85 ranger for 100 bucks. 2.8 5 speed, cut fenders and dual fuel tanks. But no switch to change from one tank to the other and no obvious plug in behind the dash. Does anybody know where the switch should be located? And I'm assuming that it's a dealer part for the new switch. Any help would be appreciated
 


RonD

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1985 Ranger with 2.8l should have mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine, so no in-tank fuel pumps, and no fuel Return lines

Look in the frame rail under drivers seat area for selector valve and fuel filter.

Adding it won't be very hard, universal valves will work fine.
They have 3 hook ups for hoses, 1 for each tank and then an OUT to engine fuel pump

Universal valves select front tank if no voltage(OFF) and Rear tank if they have 12volts(ON), so really just 1 wire is needed from the cab switch if you Ground the valve on the Frame Rail, which is what most are already set up for, they will only have 1 connection on them for the 12volts, metal of the valve needs to be bolted to the frame(ground)


Wiring for the Fuel Level for each tank is also fairly straight forward, if senders in the tanks are still working.

Coming from each fuel tank will be 2 wires, Yellow wire goes to the dash fuel gauge, other wire is the Ground for sender, and can be hooked to the Frame Rail.
Ford sometimes used Green wire on one tank and yellow on the other instead of 2 Yellows.
These should already run into the cab, but if not then you will need to run 2 wires into cab to the Tank selector switch on the dash.
Sometimes both wires from each tank ran into the cab and the 2 grounds were grounded to the cab body instead of Frame Rail, which is better since gauge is also grounded in the cab.

Then find the Yellow wire from the Fuel Gauge and run that to the Selector switch as well, the Yellow wire from the gauge will have 5volts from a power supply behind the dash, it is Pulsed 5 Volts so some meters will jump around if testing voltage on this wire.

Fuel level circuit
Dash 5v power supply----------Gauge------------Dash Switch------------------------------------Sender/float in tank---------Ground

At the dash switch you are just switching connections to senders

Ford Selector switch is just a toggle/rocker switch, switching contacts from one tank's sender to the other.
And will also have a 12volt contact to send 12volts to valve or 0 volts to valve

Also some have 1 connection for illumination and a Ground, this would be connected to Dash lighting wire

Unless you are planning a full restoration then using current valves and switches will be best bet.

I prefer having 1 inline filter on each tanks fuel line and then into the Valve and out to engine.

Normal setup just has 1 inline fuel filter that is on the OUT hose of the valve, which is fine.
My thinking is that if a filter does start to clog up I can switch to the other tank, that never happened, lol, but for $8 I figured why not.
 
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Jimmyrig

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How does it work stock? I've driven newer chevy trucks that had duals and automatically switched when one was empty, this one looks to be the same way, no switch in the dash or under the truck. It may have been removed, and I will definitely be putting a switch in, but I was curious about how it was done stock. I finished tracking down all the dash trim in the pile of parts it came with and there is no place for a switch to go, so I'm thinking it never had one. Thanks for the info
 

Jimmyrig

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Just climbed under it again, looks like if there is a switch it's above the front tan or if there isn't one they are both plumbed into one fuel line there. Think when I get it on the road I'll put a few gallons in the rear tank and see if it burns it. Either way it will get a switch. I've always been a fan of the extra range you get out of multiple tanks, my other project will have three when it's done.
 

RonD

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There were some GM dual tank systems that had no switch, they used the fuel sender in each tank to monitor the levels in each tank and displayed the amount of fuel remaining on the gauge.
i.e. if max gallons were 40, 20 per tank, and there was 15gal in one tank and 5gal in the other the gauge would show 1/2, 20gal remaining.
This relied on microprocessor in the dash that would select the tank to draw fuel from OR..........one tank would be the Primary, the second tanks pump would transfer fuel to the primary tank when needed.
Either system depended on the senders in the tanks to be working................perfectly.
Early 2000's was when these were used I think.
And just FYI there were problems with these systems.

An 1985 Ford wouldn't have anything like this.

You need a dash switch for the gauge and to activate the tank selector valve.

Maybe a previous owner pulled the bed and tanks from another Ranger and never got around to hooking it all up

Have a read thru this thread: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45460&page=6

That is page 6 and has a picture of the dash switch, post #54
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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In my 86 ranger the switch is on the dash just right of the steering column.
The actual solenoid is under the cab approximately under the drivers seat.

 
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Jimmyrig

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Thanks ron. I think your right about it being swapped in. When I got the truck the steering column plastic and that piece of dash trim were off. There is a square hole perfectly placed for the switch where your picture shows bau after adding the trim piece there is no place for the switch. It may be a bed swap or a cab swap, from what I saw before I brought the truck home, there may have been some drug addict in its owner history, it has a brand new clutch and the tray was back in.......with two bell housing bolts, and every other nut and bolt started but less than hand tight and missing caps from the rear u joint, ancient 33's, and the clutch master gone and the line cut and an attempted splice with some unknown substance. Drove it home float shifting on the front end. But that's part of the fun, figuring all the oddball stuff out while you fix it. Oh, and it's stock height, it clears 33's and the pr78\15 buckshots I put on it by way of cut fenders with the inner fender wells held up with 1 inch wood screws. Got a parts rig coming soon though
 

clazman

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'87 rear tank

Just bought an '87 Ranger and rear tank is shot

Would give almost anything to get a "good" rear tank!!

Tried one site tht listed that they had rear tanks.

After the mechanic got in three that re also shot I ma getting disgusted.
 

RonD

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Yes, 1987 is getting pretty old now to get good parts, and there were not alot of dual tank Rangers made so another hit in trying to find that specific part.

You may need to find one that fits vs factory model
 

Angie

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hi, you can try here at LMC trucks. they may still have some in stock. i had to get a front one for my truck as it was rotten but PO used the back one so I still had that 1 as a good tank.

cheers

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=36

i just noticed this is a B2 set up not ranger... look around their site they may be able to hook you up, or call them directly.
 
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