One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.

Nice.

I am doing the same build on a 1999 Ford Ranger and ran into a huge issue.
The oil pan hits the cross member with the motor mounts from the Ranger and mounting plates of the Explorer. And the valve covers are hitting the firewall already.
Any suggestions?

betomonroy said:

I am doing the same build on a 1999 Ford Ranger and ran into a huge issue.
The oil pan hits the cross member with the motor mounts from the Ranger and mounting plates of the Explorer. And the valve covers are hitting the firewall already.
Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Sounds like you are just a bit ahead of me. I am not sure as I have not yet lowered my engine into place. Based on others here using the same set up as myself I don't expect to have that problem but won't know for sure until it is installed for the first time. It sounds like you are using the stock engine plates which is probably part or all of the problem. Going from memory I think they can be used on non coil spring applications but not the trucks like ours. I used plates made by Stradashop located here on this site. It could also be the oil pan as Ford used a couple versions. The stamped steel pan is said to work but the aluminum pan does not.

I am using the "stamped steel" one. Heads up. I don't see what I did wrong.
Tomorrow the engine and trans are coming out. I need help solving this issue...

betomonroy said:

I am using the "stamped steel" one. Heads up. I don't see what I did wrong.
Tomorrow the engine and trans are coming out. I need help solving this issue...

Click to expand...

If you are using the correct oil pan it is probably the plates. It is my understanding that the Explorer plates will not work with the coil spring trucks. You will need to purchase a set of custom plates or obtain a copy of the blueprints to have a set made. The blueprints are available from a number of places. If you decide to have the plates made I can e-mail you the blueprints. However, it is probably easier to buy a set of plates already made from a member on this site or one like it.

Could you email me a set if the blueprints. Didnt know i needed them


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Who sales the famous engine mount plates for a Coil spring Ranger?
Ican't find this Stradashop here.

betomonroy said:

Who sales the famous engine mount plates for a Coil spring Ranger?
Ican't find this Stradashop here.

Click to expand...

Check out Strada Shop over at RangerPowerSports:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php/283517-5-0-coil-spring-motor-mounts

Im kinda lazy right now. Do u know if these will work for 3.0 motor mounts or do i need ro swap for the 4.0 mm. I thought they where the same....


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Lil-Pony said:

Could you email me a set if the blueprints. Didnt know i needed them.
Bakelhunter@gmail.com


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Click to expand...

Yes, it may take me a day or two but I can do that.

Lil-Pony said:

Im kinda lazy right now. Do u know if these will work for 3.0 motor mounts or do i need ro swap for the 4.0 mm. I thought they where the same....


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Click to expand...

Not sure if it is true for any other year models but the 98 and 99 use the same motor mount for the 3.0 and 4.0. I checked the part numbers on my 99 3.0 mounts in relation to the part numbers identified as the "ones to use, the 4.0 mounts" described in the blueprints. They were the same.

Be very careful when buying the motor mounts, several aftermarket suppliers are wrong, not sure if Rock Auto has corrected their numbers yet. Some have used the stock 2 wheel mounts with the addition of an intermediate plate.
Dave
Attachment from original designer of plates

Trial and error i guess


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A few days ago my new Ford Racing M-2320-CR rear brake caliper kit arrived. These are the same rear brake calipers used on the 03 & 04 Mustang Cobra. Although the kit has recently been discontinued by Ford Racing there are still a few of them floating around online. This was a birthday surprise from my lovely wife, what a perfect gift! Now the focus will turn to locating a new Ford Racing M-2320-C 03 & 04 Cobra front caliper kit, also discontinued and slightly more difficult to find. I am going to purchase this kit prior to securing the custom CNC hub and bracket kit needed for the 13 inch front brake conversion, even more difficult to find. Then just sit back and wait for one to come my way.









Recently I added a couple small items such as Monroe Gas-matic rear shocks and a new OEM coolant reservoir. I really want the truck to look and feel brand new when it is completed. Two things that really jump out at me on new vehicles is the fit and finish of the recess areas and the clean white color of the plastic brake, power steering, and coolant reservoirs. The SVT vehicles such as the Lightning and Cobra receive a different paint process then the standard models. Part of this process includes clear coating recessed areas such as the engine compartment and the bottom portion of the doors. I have been fortunate enough to own both vehicles through the years and wanted my Ranger to have the same look and feel in these areas. This is one of the main reasons I went to the extent I did with the disassembly.









The cab has been completely polished and waxed except for the cowl panel. The truck has also been dropped down off the blocks and placed on jack stands lower to the ground. This has been completed in preparation to install the engine in a few weeks. With the truck lower to the ground it will be easier clearing the core support with the engine package attached to the hoist.












At this point the new door handles, locks, mirrors, new window molding, and window trim have all been installed. Special care was taken to clean, lightly scuff, and polish the original lock rods, latch rods and retaining hardware. This process really cleans up the “feel” of how the doors and locks work. The mechanisms feel tight and smooth, almost new.







Over the next few weeks I will be working on the following task list prior to test fitting the engine. Most of these small items will be easier to do before the engine is in place.

Remove hood.
Remove fenders.
Polish cowl panel.
Install wiper assembly, motor, and covers.
Install power steering hoses.
Change out oil pan fasteners and rails.
Install rear main seal.
Mock up engine/trans assembly on blocks.
Remove front accessories from engine.
Clean upper and lower intake.
Install lower intake and gaskets.
Install engine wiring harness.
Remove spacer from driver side engine mount.

INSTALL ENGINE!!!

Although the weather isn’t the best for this sort of thing I thought I would go ahead and have some fun now that the cab has been polished. It just started raining and this works much better with some bright sun light but here we go! I like to call this “the business card test!” I learned it years ago from a close friend who taught me a great deal about anticipating how paint will react on the surface long before the first piece of paper scratches old paint.

Driver side cab panel



Driver side front fender



Passenger side door handle area



Passenger side rear of cab





Driver door/cab panel





Passenger side door/fender



Passenger side door



Passenger side door (close up)



Driver door jamb