Just bought a 3.0 with coolant issues

redneck15431 · Jul 19, 2014

Hey all...It's been a very long time since I've posted on these forums. I've been a member about ten years here and have always been in the 4.0 forum posting. So I just bought a 1996 Ranger with the 3.0 and a 5 speed. I know the truck well and knew of the issues before purchasing it. It has had an overheating issue for some time and I think has blown a head gasket and potentially cracked a head as a result. Symptoms are overheating, loss of coolant and coolant blowing out of the exhaust. There is no coolant in the oil. So my best guess right now is that the head is cracked between an exhaust and coolant port. Preparing for the worst, I am planning on replacing the heads, if not then thats all for the better. I am very mechanically inclined, however, I am new to the 3.0 and I am wondering if there is anything I should look out for and things I should do while I have the engine apart. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

RonD · Jul 19, 2014

Very good read here in the tech section: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.shtml

If you do have to replace the heads avoid any from 2001-2005 if you buy used, they had valve seat issues.
Stick with '86-'98 heads

A few ideas about 3.0l here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml

redneck15431 · Jul 21, 2014

Thanks for the info!

redneck15431 · Jul 25, 2014

I wanted to post an update and ask a few questions. So I mentioned that there was no coolant in the oil, so that made me question the fact that the head gasket(s) were blown. So first, I decided to pull the plugs and do a compression test. When I went to take out the rear plugs (closest to the firewall) on each side, they were very difficult to get out. I personally replaced these a few years ago and put anti-seize on them, which I thought was very odd. It was almost like they were seizing from the inside. When I got them out, they were very corroded and had a wet residue on them which to me was a clear indicator that both of those cylinders were burning antifreeze.

So I ran the compression test, all cylinders on the drivers side were around 140, give or take 5 pounds. All cylinders on the passenger side were around 150, give or take 5 pounds. All cylinders held pressure and did not leak down. This was done on a cold engine so I was under the impression that the head gaskets were ok. So I began to think that the intake gasket was leaking on both sides.

I removed the intake manifold and carefully inspected gasket surfaces as well as the gasket themselves and saw no indication of the gasket leaking from the water jackets. Can those leaks be that discreet? Is it possible that the heads are cracked on both sides between water jackets and intake side? Or the intake manifold cracked? I am new to the 3.0 and not aware of the weak spots/problem areas associated with these problems. From what I remember, the coolant was not being pressurized, so exhaust gases were not escaping into the coolant. Just looking for some insight, I'm not going to replace the heads/head gaskets if I don't have to, however I am not putting it back together only doing the intake gaskets without being sure that there could be no other underlying issue. Those manifold bolts look quite intimidating with the amount of rust on them

.

redneck15431 · Jul 26, 2014

So I successfully removed the passenger side head. All the manifold bolts came right out. Turns out the gasket was indeed blown. It went on one cylinder and just started to leak on another. There was about 3 different size of bolts which was quite annoying. The drivers side is a different story. I removed two bolts with some persuasion, one snapped off which i am not concerned about since I think it left enough for me to remove once the head is out. The bottom three bolts are giving me trouble. I want to remove them without junking them all but I can't seem to get the correct size socket on them. I have tried 12mm, 11mm, 10mm, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", and nothing will fit tight enough which kinda has me stumped. The 12mm fits the tightest but there is still a bit of slop. Enough to spin on the head of the bolt. The next closest size, 7/16", will not fit at all. 11mm will not fit at all. 1/2" is too big. Am I missing something here? I've never run across anything like this. I'm half tempted to take a socket meant for rounded off bolts and use it but don't want to be impulsive just yet. Any ideas?

I will have to put this project on the backburner for a few days since it is sitting outside and it is to rain. My Mustang is in the garage because of a water leak inside that I have been chasing down. Otherwise, the Ranger would be in there

.

alwaysFlOoReD · Jul 26, 2014

I'm not familiar with the 3.0. Could the bolts be a different design other than 12 point?

Nhaz · Jul 27, 2014

May want to weld on a new bolt right on top of the head of the old one to get a correct sized bolt head.

RonD · Jul 27, 2014

Reads like you are not the first to take those heads off, 3 different bolt heads????

In any case you should not reuse the head bolts, so just get them off any way you can and toss them.
The head bolts are TTY(torque-to-yeild), as are most head bolts now-a-days

TTY provides a better holding pressure for cold and warm sealing, the bolts are stretched when tightened, and will not return to original length when removed, so re-using them is just asking for trouble.

redneck15431 · Jul 29, 2014

So I bolted the passenger side head back on. Should be all good to go once I clean up the valve springs and everything. I tried once again before it got too dark out to remove those 3 manifold bolts...still no luck. So I think I am just going to have to unbolt the manifold from the Y pipe and pull it out that way. and not even bother with them. The challenge with reinstalling the passenger side head was having a good surface to grab on to without contaminating the deck surfaces with grease and dirt with the manifold still there, so it It may actually leave me at an advantage to have an extra surface to grab on to when I go to reinstall the drivers side head. I think I would save time fighting it that way than potentially snapping off three more bolts that I would have to fight out. But so far it has been easy...just wish the days were longer :icon_twisted:

. Hopefully this weekend it'll be running again.

redneck15431 · Jul 29, 2014

Almost forgot to mention that I am replacing that cam synchronizer while I have the intake off. Easy access to it and I already purchased the part, so it probably needs it after 148k miles. I have a cousin with a Ranger that had the same issue a few years ago and ended up blowing up his engine. He explained the whole thing to me when it happened back then but I didn't quite comprehend what happened until I noticed some articles/posts on here. This engine never had the squeal or squeak others have mentioned, but I'm not taking any chances. I've seen here and there about some sort of alignment tool for doing this. Is this necessary to have? Seems no different than installing a distributor.

Brian1973 · Jul 31, 2014

my exhaust manifold bolts were a couple different sizes... and the rust on some of them had reduced mine to "in between" sizes as well... I think I just took what fit best and made sure I squirted some PB Blaster on them to soak overnight...

Brian1973 · Jul 31, 2014

I have some 1992 I think, heads if you have a head issue I'd sell cheap if you need em... just keeping them for backup but not doing any good sitting in my attic...

redneck15431 · Aug 2, 2014

So I got it all back together again today and she is alive and well once again :yahoo:

. The only thing left to do is get new exhaust manifold bolts. I bought some from my local Fastenal while buying some other things for work. I knew they were 8mm x 1.25, for those who are curious and for future reference, but I wasn't sure of the length. I ended up buying 35mm long I believe which turned out to be a size too long for the top bolts and way too short for the lower ones. I was able to reuse some of the old ones that weren't too rusted up, but needless to say, the manifolds are leaking pretty bad. I was just eager to get it running again. I plan to go out tomorrow and buy the correct length. Other than that, it runs great.

I did replace the camshaft position sensor which was very easy. The old sensor that bolts on top pretty much fell apart when I took it out. With the sensor removed, I marked the old one in a couple places in a good reference point with a permanent marker before removing it, made the same marks on the new one, properly realigned, bolted it down and it was done.

Thanks again for all the input and advice!

Just bought a 3.0 with coolant issues

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