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Old 02-02-2010, 10:49 PM   #51
Rocker3829
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I just got back in from installin a new ignition switch and I still can't get the truck to crank from the ignition, but I now get it to start from the jumpin the fender relay everything now. I've traced power from the clutch switch and the ignition wire at the relay and I get very little voltage (.03 volts). Any tips for this situation? I have no idea if .03 is a good thing or a bad thing (could be me just not being able to get a reading with my multimeter very well and I also do not have a test light, I might buy one and see if I can see if there is enough power going through those when starting to start the truck, but at this point obviously not by itself)
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:26 PM   #52
pocket-rocket
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Power should go from the ignition switch > clutch switch > fender solenoid > starter all in series. Sorry I haven't been back for a bit to chime in on this. Simple electrical theory. Put stuff in series and if it all is good you have a circuit. Break the circuit any where in that point (bad part, bad wire, ect) and you no longer have an operating circuit.

Here is a scan from the Ford electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual factory service manual for my 94 (not sure how much would be different since your 96 should be OBDII)



Actually, use this diagram, I whited out automatic trans stuff...



This diagram shows when you turn your key to "Start" battery voltage should go from the Red with Light Blue wire from the ignition switch into the clutch switch, out by way of the Pink wire which splices with the Red with Light Blue wire that goes to the fender mounted starter relay. To check voltage on these wires, ground the black lead of your meter and probe the back of the sockets with the red. I hope this helps. Oh, and btw, as far as my manual goes, ebay FTW and ALWAYS make sure your truck is in neutral before jumping the fender mounted relay or the solenoid on the starter itself. I also broke my fender mounted relay jump starting it with the tire iron I used to beat my starter with, then broke the new one so I have to take it back. I would suggest using a 1/4 drive ratchet to install a new one since you can't torque the snot out of them causing the new relay to break.
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Last edited by pocket-rocket; 02-02-2010 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:59 AM   #53
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whoever said the clutch switch looks like they were right. I think it was Earl. I wonder if you somehow blew something out when changing the tranny that affected the starter solenoid( you replaced the starter solenoid? that was definitely bad right?) and the clutch switch. The thing that confuses me is that i always thought that if the clutch swithc was bad it would not even make the solenoid click. i wonder if it was letting just enough juice thr to click the starter solenoid.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:53 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
whoever said the clutch switch looks like they were right. I think it was Earl. I wonder if you somehow blew something out when changing the tranny that affected the starter solenoid( you replaced the starter solenoid? that was definitely bad right?) and the clutch switch. The thing that confuses me is that i always thought that if the clutch swithc was bad it would not even make the solenoid click. i wonder if it was letting just enough juice thr to click the starter solenoid.

Pocket rocket, appreciate those attached pics of the starting system, I've got a layout in the haynes manual but this also gives me something to compare it to (could be a little different due to mine bein a 96 and your's being a 94).

Modelageek, never had to replace the starer solenoid, just the fender relay. I'll try testing the clutch switch with the multimeter and see if I can get a reading when trying to start the truck. What voltage should I be getting to know if it is alright or not? Clutch switch is very easy to switch out so if I have to replace it it is not a problem (just wish they weren't $50 a pop)
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:16 PM   #55
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I'm sure there will probably be some difference like I mentioned because you are OBDII and my 94 isn't. You should get the same as your battery voltage (maybe a little less, but not more than a half a volt I would say) from the clutch switch. Basically you have 2 switches in line between the fender relay and your battery to simplify it (ignition switch and clutch switch) and both have to be on at the same time for the starter relay to energize. Pics were no problem
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:57 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by pocket-rocket View Post
I'm sure there will probably be some difference like I mentioned because you are OBDII and my 94 isn't. You should get the same as your battery voltage (maybe a little less, but not more than a half a volt I would say) from the clutch switch. Basically you have 2 switches in line between the fender relay and your battery to simplify it (ignition switch and clutch switch) and both have to be on at the same time for the starter relay to energize. Pics were no problem
Understood, appreciate the insight, I've also checked power at fuse 24 (where the wire from the ignition switch goes to then goes to the clutch switch) and I'm reading 12.5 volts there (same as the positive battery cable at the relay) so I need to check the clutch switch, if that aint showing any volts I assume the clutch switch?
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:10 PM   #57
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I disconnected the clutch switch so I could get the multimeter hooked up to the correct wire at the clutch switch electrical connections and continually got about .15 volts (give or take .02 volts) each of the 10 times I tested it when turning the key. I should now believe the culprit to be the switch correct? I have 12.5 volts measured at the fuse 24 (the ignition switch runs to fuse 24 then to the clutch switch and then to the relay) so I believe it to be the clutch switch.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:22 PM   #58
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If you are testing the wire at the clutch switch that comes from the ignition switch and the ignition is at start you should have 12v if you don't the wire is bad or you have a rap module that is not closing
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:33 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelageek View Post
If you are testing the wire at the clutch switch that comes from the ignition switch and the ignition is at start you should have 12v if you don't the wire is bad or you have a rap module that is not closing
I believe I was testing the wire at the clutch switch that came from the ignition switch, but I just looked at the starting system again and it says white/pink or red/light blue wire, I only tested the red/light blue one, I'll double check that one as well as the white/pink one (though I don't think the White/pink wire is it because the wire that goes from the clutch switch to the relay is red/light blue, but I'll check anyway)
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:51 PM   #60
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Went back out and tested the wires again (it's definitely the red/light blue one since I have a manual tranny) and once I found a better ground to use it still is giving me between .10 and .15 volts, so it appears that the wire is the culprit?
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