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HID Conversion complete!


SVTCop

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Finally got to this little project. Took about 2 hours not counting cure time.

Opt7 35w blitz kit with some mini H1 style projectors.

Ranger HID Headlights-7 by Josh Leach, on Flickr

Stock lights
Ranger HID Headlights-9 by Josh Leach, on Flickr

Projector mounted.


The different is significant to say the least
Ranger HID Headlights-16 by Josh Leach, on Flickr

stock v. projected
Ranger HID Headlights-18 by Josh Leach, on Flickr

Ranger HID Headlights-20 by Josh Leach, on Flickr

Projected down a dark road.
Ranger HID Headlights-21 by Josh Leach, on Flickr

Ranger HID Headlights-22 by Josh Leach, on Flickr
 


lvwill

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It's always a good idea to make sure that you blind oncoming traffic so you can see good.
 

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It's always a good idea to make sure that you blind oncoming traffic so you can see good.
I have always felt that way too. What's even more impressive is that I can see the details of the road much better in the before picture.
 

SVTCop

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It's always a good idea to make sure that you blind oncoming traffic so you can see good.
They are aimed so not blinding anyone.
 

SVTCop

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I have always felt that way too. What's even more impressive is that I can see the details of the road much better in the before picture.
Thats because the light didn't wash out the picture, leaving the details intact.

Both shots were taken with the exact same camera settings to illustrate the vast improvement of light.
 

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Thats because the light didn't wash out the picture, leaving the details intact.

Both shots were taken with the exact same camera settings to illustrate the vast improvement of light.
If it washed out the picture won't it wash out your vision too?
 

SVTCop

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If it washed out the picture won't it wash out your vision too?
My eyes dont take in 3 seconds of light before coming up with a single image. :yahoo:
 

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Well, it is quite hard (maybe impossible?) to get a camera to capture an image exactly like how a human eye sees it (leaving the camera on it's automatic exposure settings helps, but it's still not an exact replication).

However, judging by the quite bluish tint of the HID making the halogen look so yellowish, I'm guessing you must've bought 6000°K (or higher) bulbs, which is probably the worst thing you can do, short of going to LEDs.
Most (if not all) OEM HID headlights are closer to the 4000-4500°K range, which your eyes see much better with at night than 6000K, not to mention will create less glare for others too (no, artificial light sources are NOT anything like sunlight regardless of how close the °K rating may be to it... This is due to the spectral output distribution of artificial light sources (other than halogen incandescent) being very different than that of the sun's light).

Keep them aimed properly (and don't haul anything heavy in the bed) and you'll probably be OK in regards to blinding others (I do see a proper (if a little sharp) beam cutoff pattern, similar to many OEM lights). If others start flashing their brights at you though, then you'll need to aim them down lower.
 

SVTCop

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Well, it is quite hard (maybe impossible?) to get a camera to capture an image exactly like how a human eye sees it (leaving the camera on it's automatic exposure settings helps, but it's still not an exact replication).

However, judging by the quite bluish tint of the HID making the halogen look so yellowish, I'm guessing you must've bought 6000°K (or higher) bulbs, which is probably the worst thing you can do, short of going to LEDs.
Most (if not all) OEM HID headlights are closer to the 4000-4500°K range, which your eyes see much better with at night than 6000K, not to mention will create less glare for others too (no, artificial light sources are NOT anything like sunlight regardless of how close the °K rating may be to it... This is due to the spectral output distribution of artificial light sources (other than halogen incandescent) being very different than that of the sun's light).

Keep them aimed properly (and don't haul anything heavy in the bed) and you'll probably be OK in regards to blinding others (I do see a proper (if a little sharp) beam cutoff pattern, similar to many OEM lights). If others start flashing their brights at you though, then you'll need to aim them down lower.
They look blue in the turn out but thats mostly my camera. I do a lot of photography and I have my camera set up almost in a blue/gray scale. They are 5ks.

I aimed them after I took these shots and its pretty cut and dry now. Went for a drive and didn't get flashed.
 

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Yeah, I hate blue. especially when combined with red....lol. Any way, I'm glad you took the time to aim them. Good job.
 

lvwill

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My job as a truck driver requires me to drive at night in very dark areas. And I can tell you from experience that it's not all about the adjustment of the lights that makes them really annoying.
 

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Kudos on a proper projector retrofit. I think you did well.
 

SVTCop

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My job as a truck driver requires me to drive at night in very dark areas. And I can tell you from experience that it's not all about the adjustment of the lights that makes them really annoying.
You mean all cars with projectors bother you? Is it the light output?
 

lvwill

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It's not just the projectors. It's halogens as well. There is a reason alot of the lights are labeled as off road only. The problem is that when you are driving in an extremely dark area your eyes get adjusted to the dark. When extremely bright lights are coming towards you it pretty much makes your own lights useless for several seconds. And then it takes several more seconds for them to recover after the car goes by. Under certain conditions it really doesn't matter how they are adjusted at all like a divided hiway and there is a difference in elevation between the lanes.

Now on the other hand it looks like you did a great job on the upgrade and took the time to get the adjustment right. Not a lot of people would have taken the time to do that.
 

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