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Non-Ranger Axles All other axles. Ford 9-inch, Dana 44, Dana 60, etc.

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Old 11-08-2017, 11:40 AM   #1
evanesce69
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Default 93 Ford Ranger Dana 44 Install

OK, so as the title says, over the weekend I installed full width (non cut and welded) Dana 44 beams into my Ranger.

I intend to document in process in great detail so to share what I have learned so far.

93 Ford Ranger Supercab, 3.0L V6, M5R1, electric BW1354
6" skyjacker suspension lift with extended radius arms
Chevy 64" leaf springs in rear
8.8 out of an '04 SportTrac, Yukon 5.13 R&P, Yukon C clip eliminator kit, Detroit TrueTrac

The front diff is from a 3/4 ton with a Dana 50. It will sport matching 5.13 gears with an Auburn Gear ECTED.
The Dana 50 drop out is a direct bolt in to the D44 beams.

Front ring gear is 9" and rear ring gear is 8.8".


Photos will follow...
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1993 Ford Ranger XL Super Cab 4x4
3.0L FFV Engine from a 2006 Sable @ 250K miles
17x9 Black Rock
P285/70/17 Maxxis Mud Claws

Last edited by evanesce69; 11-08-2017 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:41 AM   #2
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I'll Add descriptions later, but essentially, I had to move the Skyjacker brackets 1.5" forward to allow the wheels to be centered in the wheel wells. This was necessary because at full lock turn the tires were chewing up the lower fender wells just in front of the doors. Since the beams are 3" wider on either side, they were pulled back ever so slightly due to the arc created... While the radius arms did not change length, the position of the beams did....

When the brackets are moved forward, an extension on the transmission crossmember had to be added. Simply a 1.5" move just like the radius arm brackets.

These are FULL length D44 beams, no cut or rotate performed. WMS to WMS is 63". The factory D44 in a 1/2 ton is 65" WMS to WMS. This is because the beam mounts are 2" wider on the Ranger than on the F150's.

The tie rod ends and drag links are '90 F150. An inch needed to be cut off the right side tie rod end and adjoining drag link. The adjuster sleeve needed an inch cut off either side. There is still plenty of room for the clamps to tighten and ample thread engagement. The left side is unmodified.

The knuckles were reamed from the top to accept the tie rod ends. The reamer is a XKUT 1-1/2" TPF BALL JOINT & TIE ROD TAPER REAMER #6952. Easily found on EBay. Be careful to not over ream or the TRE's will not tighten up... Slow and easy with several trial fits.

I used a 6" drop pitman arm for the steering. I think it was a FA600 from Skyjacker. As you can see in the last photo, the steering linkage is nearly parallel. With the D44 beams, you want the axle beam eye bolts to be 1" higher that the spindle centerline. This sets the proper ride height and make alignment much easier. The alignment bushings are MOOG part #'s K80108.

If your smart, you wont lose the F150 sway bar link mounts like I did. I had to cut down the factory D35 mounts.

It is necessary to add a 1/8" shim betweel the radius arm to beam mounts. The D44 beans are 1/8" thinner where the radius arms mount. I used a set of washers that came from the D35 beams. The bolts (both upper and lower) come with these. If you grabbed them from your D44 TTB donor you are in luck.

I do not have a center dropout because it is in the process of being setup. It is a center chunk from a 3/4 ton D50 TTB. The D50 has a 9" ring gear. I am having 5.13's installed on an Auburn Gear ECTED electric locker.

I still have to mock install the drop out to measure for the passenger side inner axleshaft. This is because the beams mounts are 2" wider that the F150's beam mounting points. This narrows the track by 2" and requires shortening the axleshaft by the same 2" on the passenger side. The driver side remains unchanged. Stubshafts, spindles and brakes are all '90 F150.
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Last edited by evanesce69; 11-21-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:42 AM   #3
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:43 AM   #4
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:43 AM   #5
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Old 11-28-2017, 06:03 PM   #6
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Looking forward to seeing more of this build.

May I suggest moving the bottom spring mounts in towards the center of the truck so that your springs aren't at such an extreme angle? Or moving the spring towers out? Dana 44 TTB swaps are fairly common and both options I mentioned have been done before. Your build looks good otherwise, just fix the springs - nothing good will come of leaving them like that.
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1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 toy
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:19 PM   #7
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Shran - I've seriously considered moving the spring buckets out an 1.5 - 2 inches... I too don't like the angle much.

One thing that I've discovered is that the calipers hit the lower shock mounts at full lock, which compresses the piston and makes a very spongy two or three pedal pumps.

Gonna look at it more this weekend. Although the vibration in the rear driveshaft is of more concern at the moment. Seems 5.13's 33's and 75 mph is just way too fast for a one piece driveshaft even at 4" diameter and 1310 series U joints.
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:57 PM   #8
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Why not ditch the coils and go coil overs?
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:49 AM   #9
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Mavereq - I have considered that too... Plus that would solve the clearance issue of the calipers and lower shock mounts. Good idea!!!
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17x9 Black Rock
P285/70/17 Maxxis Mud Claws
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:05 AM   #10
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Coilovers (or ORI struts) would be the ultimate fix. And they'd look a lot cleaner than adjusting mounts to correct the spring angle.

Are there adjustable steering stop bolts on your knuckles? Could turn them out a little temporarily to fix the brake issue.
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1986 Ranger XL 4x4, 302, NP435/205, HP D44, RCV shafts, 8.8 Lock-rite/lsd, 4.10 gears, 35" Kevlar MT/R --- Build Thread
1988 Ranger XL 2.3/M5OD 4x4 daily driver
1986 F150 4x2 302/T18 toy
2007 F250 4x4 V10
1992 Explorer 4 door expedition rig
1994 Explorer 2 door future offroad racer maybe?
1989 Ranger 4x4 future daily driver and 4.0 swap candidate
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