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Old 03-19-2013, 06:57 PM   #1
fluknick
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Default 96 Ranger 2.3L, Need an ANTI SLOSH Module

Hey all,

I'm a new member ....was just on the intro forum.
The weekly anti slosh need....

Anyway, I need an ANTI SLOSH MODULE for a 96 Ranger XLT 2.3L 5 Speed no tach.

F5ZF 14A608 BC

The capaciter is out on the old board and it is popping #11 fuse ( gauges and AC controls ).

GREEN, ROCK, LMC do not have...
Local salvage dont even have gauge pods...all already nabbed.


Any source for an AS, F5ZF 14A608 BC ??

Thanks in advance
Nick

Last edited by fluknick; 03-19-2013 at 07:53 PM. Reason: highlighted pertinant info
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:08 PM   #2
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Anti slosh module? That's a new one on me.


Sure someone is not pulling your leg?

Edit;

I stand corrected! This module does exist. Function is related to the gas gauge and this plugs into the back of the gauge cluster. Should be easy enough to find in a salvage yard.

Last edited by MrRangerSir; 03-19-2013 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Learn something new every day!
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:09 PM   #3
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Looked a little further. My 93 does not use this module, (I think), but Ford used this module in many vehicles, for example, Taurus. Module may interchange? Check out this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJFTcu6sGZg
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:31 PM   #4
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That was actually an informative video.
I did investigate this possibility of the bypass previously, though with a mutli meter, but found a continuity issue...meaning a lack of.

Like I said, the capaciter ( red item in the vid at top of the board ) is wasted...like a piece of popcorn.


That said, I am going to try the tape and the wire anyway ( I believe the capaciter is still involved tho )....
....the only thing I have to loose is another 7.5A on the #11 circuit.

Good find on the video.

As for if your 93 has this....no telling.
Probably, but as many rangers as I looked into today that still had the gauge pod, each a different year / each a different version of the part.
Solid state, bigger board, small cap, swapped terminals, extra terminals ( tach I think- but why ??? )

That little board, by the way, will take down your entire gauge pod ( every instrument ) should that capaciter get blown.
But simply removing it and all is good.....except the gas gauge.

I'll test the tape / jumper, relative to my condition, and update on the success/failure.
I am not anticipating success though.

UTube has everything....
....well almost ;)

Thanks again,
Nick
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:39 PM   #5
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Go to RadioShack and get a new cap. Takes a few seconds to solder in. If RadioShack doesn't have it get online and order one from MCM Electronics in Dayton.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:10 PM   #6
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OK,

Tape / jumper would probably have worked had the capaciter been good....
....however, jumping without benefit of capaciter PEGS the gas gauge beyond full, although no fuse was blown in this experiment ( which was surprising to me ).
Without ASM, gauge reads half full- all the time.....so no gain for effort.

So....interesting vid; but i am certain that the rigging in that vid is based on a diode failure, and still uses the capaciter on the board.

Anyway, good looking out.

nick
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:26 PM   #7
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If I take this right, that module dampens the gauge movement due to fuel sloshing and provides the low fuel indication. I found a picture of a Ranger dash showing the module. I'll take it yours is similar.



Stands to reason that the capacitor may be shorted and is the cause of the fuse blowing, but I'd bet whatever took the cap out also damaged other electronics on the board. Board replacement is the best bet. Looks like the Ranger board has 8 connections where the Taurus board in the video has 5. Obviously not a direct replacement. I think the bypass idea would work, but you need to identify what lead comes from the fuel level sender and what lead goes to the gauge. Short those two together, ignore the rest and remove the board entirely. You would likely lose your low fuel light, but at least you would get your gauge back.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:40 PM   #8
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This may help.

Attachment 9717

While you are in there, if you short across the 20 ohm resistor attached to the oil pressure gauge and change the oil pressure switch to an analog sender, you get a real oil pressure gauge in your Ranger!

Looks like you need to identify the connection at C215(12), (Yel/wte wire), and jump that to the sender input at the fuel gauge. Again, remove the damaged board!

Extra connections shown to the oil and temp gauges are likely additional inputs for the check gauges light. Looks like that light tells you more than just check fuel. Ultimate idiot light!

Last edited by MrRangerSir; 04-04-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:08 PM   #9
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That is a Holy Grail doc !
Thanks for that post....you should suggest that they put that in the wiring schematics section- I did not see it represented previously.
They omit it in haynes manual, as well ( chilton ? IDK )....

Yeah...I agree with the work around and ramifications...
....I'd like to just get a new board, as well; although I will probably dig through a Tarus or two over the weekend as the the circuit convention is almost identical, with exception to the physical size of the capaciter ( the ranger is rated at 100 ohm, 35V so if taurus is similar I'll try it ).
Gauge may be off as a result, if that rating is diff.

Yes, the one in the pic has an additional connection.
At the junk yard, trucks that had the additional connection, all had tachs ( mine does not have a tach or the additional connection ).
Not sure if it is related to the tach or not, but that was the case in 5 out of 5, varying years 94 - 98.

Thanks for the vid and the doc.
Post the doc in the tech section !!!

.....great info on the edit, as well.

best regards,
nick

Last edited by fluknick; 03-19-2013 at 10:14 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:20 PM   #10
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Lots of good info in the link mentioned in this post.

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=65892
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