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Old 04-15-2012, 09:07 PM   #21
nb11
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I mean, he wants to fit bigger tires. It doesn't sound like he wants any type of performance lift, doesn't want any trouble (read TIB camber issues) and wants something relatively cheap. I'm not the biggest fan of body lifts, but looking at his constraints and criteria, a body lift would be good.

OP: If you go the body lift route, expect to pay around $250 for the lift, then extra for bumper brackets, gap guards (so you can't see the space between the bottom of the bed and the frame), shifter extender, and steering extender. Then, you'll be able to fit larger tires, which will cost more than smaller tires, and will take re-gearing (expect $400-600 to have a shop do this).

It'll be expensive. Your best bet would be coil spacers up front, alignment, and a size or two larger (than what you have now) tires.

Here's a link to the tech library. Read everything here. Everything! http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakeandress1 View Post
oh ok so if i do any body lift at all 31's will work ok? and you said ur gears are 3.73..is that stock or did you change them? cuz idk what gears are on my stock 95 2.3l 2wd...i mean if urs is the 2.3l 2wd and all ur stuff works fine without power loss then i got nuthing to loose
Nah stock but
They can very sometimes. check your driver door sticker and in the tech library is a link to identify what you have.




Quote:
Originally Posted by nb11 View Post
I mean, he wants to fit bigger tires. It doesn't sound like he wants any type of performance lift, doesn't want any trouble (read TIB camber issues) and wants something relatively cheap. I'm not the biggest fan of body lifts, but looking at his constraints and criteria, a body lift would be good.

OP: If you go the body lift route, expect to pay around $250 for the lift, then extra for bumper brackets, gap guards (so you can't see the space between the bottom of the bed and the frame), shifter extender, and steering extender. Then, you'll be able to fit larger tires, which will cost more than smaller tires, and will take re-gearing (expect $400-600 to have a shop do this).

It'll be expensive. Your best bet would be coil spacers up front, alignment, and a size or two larger (than what you have now) tires.

Here's a link to the tech library. Read everything here. Everything! http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php
I agree but damn at that price range he can get a real lift for a few hundred more if anything...

If he feels confident he can probably do it himself and save big time...
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:02 PM   #23
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Uh, expect to pay $250 TOTAL. Aside from gap guards, but you can make those yourself.
PA Body lift. Includes all bumper brackets and everything you need to complete the lift. No need to buy anything extra. If someone tells you otherwise they have no idea what they're talking about.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:11 PM   #24
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I made splash shields for the front wheel wells to keep crap from being thrown into the engine compartment from the wheels out of tractor inner tubes.

I don't care for the gap guards at in the rear. IMO they look like exactly what they are... hunks of plastic to keep light from shining between the frame and bed.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:57 AM   #25
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thanks o much for all the really appreciated help!!!
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adsm08 View Post
You buy new gears and a master install kit, buy a bunch of tools like a dial indicator, a shoe-horn, a dummy tube, a torque wrench, etc. Then you remove the drive shaft, the wheels and brake drums, and the diff cover. Then push in on the rear wheel hubs, pull the C-clips out from the inboard ends of the shafts, and yank the shafts out. Next unbolt the bearing caps for the carrier, grab the carrier,and pull hard.

Now you have to remove the pinion nut, pull the companion flange off and hammer the old pinion out. Zap the ring gear bolts out of the carrier, you will want a pneumatic impact wrench, hand tools won't work well because of the high torque and thread locker and an electric one usually wont' cut it.

Next you have to install the new pinion and set the depth properly using selective shims and install the bearings and set the preload. Once that is done you have to install the new ring to the carrier and install the carrier back into the housing and set the backlash. Put some yellow goo on and spin it all and check the gear mesh pattern. If that's right you put the axle shafts back in. Might as well do axle seals while you are there, since you gotta take the shafts out to do that. Install C-clips, the rear cover, and the drums and wheels, and the drive shaft of course, and take it for a ride.


Personally, I'd never own a 4-cylinder of any sort with anything above a 5.13 gear. But that's just me.
Sounds simple enough
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:56 PM   #27
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You have to swap out the gears that are inside the middle area of your axles. You will have to take it to a shop and have it done since you have no idea what we are talking about. Front and rear (4x4) will be about $1,000 with parts and labor. Tires are another expense since you want them and then your speedometer will be off and you will have to correct that and your gas mileage will drop and that is another expense...lol!!! Join the club of upgrading your ride, Bro!!!
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