Florida runner build


jesse93

10+ Year Member

Joined
Jun 8, 2011
Messages
259
Points
1,601
City
plant city fl
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
it has come time for me to finally start my build thread.

what i have started with is a 93 ranger stx 4x4 with a 4.0 auto. i wanted it for a trail truck and sas swap, the whole 9. but i love prerunners, i know there is no where to run one here in muddy Florida but im doing one anyway.

i want to go with a simple but good looking set up seeing im not going to be jumping it at huckfest :bawling:

i will stop talking and get to the pics.....


Florida runner build

bumper i built then trashed


Florida runner build

so i can install my 99 front clip

Florida runner build

pulled her in to start on the rear

Florida runner build

rancho rs9000xl with res. 15in travel

Florida runner build

next to my 35

Florida runner build

2000 tundra springs. 58in long and have a 8.5in arc

Florida runner build

camburg shackles

Florida runner build

ballistic fab shock tabs

Florida runner build

flipped it, but didnt work for me

Florida runner build

then i moved it back 3in and dropped it 2in. braced the frame and built a drop bracket for the hanger

Florida runner build

welded it all up

Florida runner build

moved the front hanger

Florida runner build

installed the spring and i was amazed that i pulled 18in from bump to full drop

Florida runner build

put the bed back on and i was..ok..with the height, but when i get my bed sides i will be much happier.

Florida runner build

started on my bedcage

Florida runner build

all in and now for the fun part.

Florida runner build

fully removable, now time to weld it all up

Florida runner build

welded up and shocks installed

Florida runner build



i still have to add some small braces and my tire rack then i will paint it. im happy with the way it turned out. it rides amazing compared to stock and lifted. the dirt roads are now a blast to drive. ive started on my cut and turn beams but im still doing my homework.
 
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sorry pics are so big..i have no idea what im doing..lol
 
Why did you get rid of the bumper? Looks good by the way.
 
it gave me over heating problems with the skid plate and it looked goofy from the side, it was almost flat in the front. i will make another one soon.
 
Looks like a great start. I dont see why extended 4wd beams couldnt perform as good or better than SAS
 
Everything looks good to me so far. Are you planning on extending your beams or just doing a cut and turn? I just used stock width with drop brackets, I hear it handles better in woods.

The only think I would do is triangulate the floating shock mount corner (where the two tubes meet at a 90) to the bottom of the cage to give it strength.

How much were those shocks and why did u chose them?
 
you gotta gusset that bed cage, especially around the plates mounting it to the bed itself.

otherwise, it looks good. though your droop is way past where you want it to stop. you droop it until the leafs separate, go up one inch and strap it there. best rule of thumb to avoid destroying them or something else.
 
im going to do the cut and turn to get rid of the drop brackets.

the bed cage has been gusseted since pics. but i want to do more, as well as my tire carrier.

the shocks were 350.00 shipped and i picked them because its my daily and i wont be doing any crazy jumping with it, just down dirt roads.

thanks for the advise on the droop, i will be straping it.

i have a hf nocther and it wasnt doing its job so i had to do them by hand. i know that some of them are good, some are not.
 
im going to do the cut and turn to get rid of the drop brackets.

the bed cage has been gusseted since pics. but i want to do more, as well as my tire carrier.

the shocks were 350.00 shipped and i picked them because its my daily and i wont be doing any crazy jumping with it, just down dirt roads.

thanks for the advise on the droop, i will be straping it.

i have a hf nocther and it wasnt doing its job so i had to do them by hand. i know that some of them are good, some are not.

If the notcher is not notching the pipe centered shim the clamp with washers... look how the pipe sits in it and fix the thing...

I would keep the drop brackets, it will keep your steering alignment better (if you plan on running stock setup with pitman arm drop) and also I hear C&T can cause weird handlin up hills in the woods ext...
 
If the notcher is not notching the pipe centered shim the clamp with washers... look how the pipe sits in it and fix the thing...

I would keep the drop brackets, it will keep your steering alignment better (if you plan on running stock setup with pitman arm drop) and also I hear C&T can cause weird handlin up hills in the woods ext...


its not that, the shaft isn't straight and it tore up the bit..waste of money.


the drop bracket on the divers side hits my diff with any articulation. so i would hate to be in the woods or bashing down a road and put a hole in my diff.

as for the front im going to run my coils with the same brand shocks as the rear. maybe a shock hoop. i change my mind like i change my underwear..so check with my tomorrow..lol
 
its not that, the shaft isn't straight and it tore up the bit..waste of money.


the drop bracket on the divers side hits my diff with any articulation. so i would hate to be in the woods or bashing down a road and put a hole in my diff.

as for the front im going to run my coils with the same brand shocks as the rear. maybe a shock hoop. i change my mind like i change my underwear..so check with my tomorrow..lol

Can you show me pic of where it hits? What kind of brackets are you trying to use? I have skyjacker Class II drop brackets, they dont seem to hit at all...

I hear you about changing your mind... It happends to me constantly:icon_rofl:
 
His brackets are not skyjacker. It's a drop plate for the stock bracket and the 2 bolts that bolt it together hit the diff. So no dice on keeping the brackets.
 

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