Timing issue...scratching my head on this one!

[custom1106]

First off...the 3.0 Vulcan I'm working with happens to be in an '89 Taurus. The people on the Taurus forums really don't have much knowledge to lend if it isn't about '96 or newer models.

I'm having a problem getting the timing set. I just bought the car, and the marks on the balancer were way off. I put on a new balancer and the timing got closer, but still off. When I try to set the timing at the recommended 10* base with the spout disconnected, I have to retard it so much it runs like crap. Somethings not right. The balancer is new, the timing chain set is new as well. I'm scratching my head here. I can run it way advanced according to the marks on the new balancer and it runs great. Any help would be appreciated!

[Rearanger]

On a model this old I'm assuming the crankshaft balancer has a TDC #1 mark and there is a plate or marks on the engine that show 0* then 5* 10* on both sides of 0? I also assume you adjust the electrical timing by turning the distributor?

[custom1106]

The balancer has all the degree marks on it. The engine has a pointer on the timing cover. The timing is adjusted by turning the distributor.

[Big Jim M]

Are you saying when it is set properly and then the spout is put back in it still runs badly?
Does the timing jump pretty good when the spout is returned?
Is the engine at operating temperature when the timing is set?
Big JIm

[custom1106]

Yep...I'll set it at 10* and plug the spout back in and it runs pretty bad, no throttle response...etc. The timing advances just fine after reconnecting the spout as well. Timing was adjusted at operating temp. I just noticed some junkyard paint pen markings on the dizzy and ran the part # on the body and came up matching a '92 3.0 dizzy. Wrong dizzy maybe?

[Rearanger]

Originally Posted by custom1106

When I try to set the timing at the recommended 10* base with the spout disconnected, I have to retard it so much it runs like crap.

By "spout" do you mean vacuum advance? I don't understand above statement, either it is set to 10*BTDC or it is not, why do you then have to "retard" it? Retard it to what? Can't say about correct dizzy part, but there should be a mechanical advance as well as the vacuum advance.

Not sure if this story will help or not but I was trying to adjust my neighbor's timing on his 1952 tractor. I could not get the timing marks aligned and every time I set it to the marks I could tell it wasn't timed right. I finally figured out the last person who installed the dizzy had put it in 180* off, the engine ran fine but you had to adjust the timing by feel not by the timing marks. I pulled the dizzy and reinstalled it properly and was able to adjust timing by the marks. The running of the engine is telling you something, not the timing marks. As long as the mechanical timing is correct the electrical timing should follow.

[custom1106]

Spout is short for "spark output". When spout plug is disconnected, the computer can't advance the timing. I have to retard the timing to get it to 10* and the car runs like crap. I'll have to pull the no.1 plug and check for tdc in relation to the marks on the pulley.

[Rearanger]

Originally Posted by custom1106

Spout is short for "spark output". When spout plug is disconnected, the computer can't advance the timing.

Ok, now I understand, I have a 92 Mitsubishi that works the same. Ground the "ignition timing connector" and set basic timing by adjusting the distributor. After removing ground the timing will advance per the computer.

I'll have to pull the no.1 plug and check for tdc in relation to the marks on the pulley.

Make sure it's TDC compression. Yes you'll need to see the position of the rotor to #1 cylinder on the dizzy cap. On my distributor cap the rotor contacts do not directly align with the spark plug wires so look inside the cap to make sure the rotor is on #1 plug position. That may be the difference on the 92 dizzy.