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#1 |
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New Member
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Nothing like a little drama… Anyway, can anyone help me with some advice on removing and/or repairing a power window motor on a 1987 Ranger? The motor spins but will not raise or lower the window. I have the door panel off but I can’t see if the gears are broken or even how to remove the motor for inspection. Can these be rebuilt or should I just plan on buying a new motor once I get it out?
Thanks
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Georgia
Year: 1984,1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger, Bronco II
Class: 2WD
Posts: 1,348
Rep Power: 14 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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You gotta drill out or grind off those big pop-rivets, and remove the motor and regulator as an assembly. Sounds like all you might need is a clutch kit, unless you see where the regulator arm has popped out of the window's slide track. Good luck!
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#3 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: California central coast
Year: 1991
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine: 4.0L
Class: 4x4
Posts: 4,643
Rep Power: 21 ![]() iTrader: (0)
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No way you'll rebuild the motor, but you really should make sure the rest of the mechanism works before you replace it.
I believe they are held in with pop rivets. You'll have to drill it out. You may be able to bolt it back in with a nut and bolt (I did that with a power door lock on my Exploder). If you have a small mirror handy (a "dental" mirror or a small dollar-store makeup mirror) and a small flashlight, inspection may be a bit easier. You really want to inspect it fully installed and connected if it's even slightly possible. I suspect you'll find a linkage has popped out or broken, unless you can hear a grinding noise while it's operating.
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1990 VW Jetta GL, 1.8L 8V gasoline engine, manual transmission, painted in oxidized red paint and ponderosa pine sap, unknown mileage. 1991 Exploder, 4.0L, M5OD-R1 manual transmission, electronic BW1354 transfer case, 3.54 gears, 31 inch tires, icky two-tone blue paint with little clear coat, 230K miles. 1972 Chevy C-10, 250 I-6, SM465 (2WD) four-on-the-floor, 3.73 gears in a GM 12-bolt, puke green with a white cab. The "4 wheeled trash can," with x70K miles. x is probably 2. |
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#5 |
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Premium Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: E-City, NC
Year: 2000
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger
Engine: 3.0
Class: 4WD
Used For: DD
Posts: 2,769
Rep Power: 21 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (1)
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Yeah, start a new thread. This one is about Power Windows.
Most power mirror problems are either the switch or the mirror. If the other side works, it can still be the switch. You could remove the door panel, make sure the switch and the mirror connections are good (at the very least disconnect/reconnect each several times to wipe the contacts) and of course, CHECK THE FUSE. Welcome to The Ranger Station. If you are convinced the mirror is bad, plug it into the PS and test it. Its only held on with three 10mm nuts. Couldn't be any easier to remove. Be careful with the door panels.
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If at first, you don't succeed, RTFM. Last edited by Earl43P; 10-27-2010 at 05:24 PM. |
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#6 | ||
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Tracked and Locked
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Northumberland, PA
Year: 1987
Make: Ford
Model: Ranger XLT
Engine: 2.9 High Performance
Class: 4x4
Used For: Elevenses
Posts: 18,639
Rep Power: 94 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: (13)
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They are 11mm nuts, and there is no relay.
If you hear it clicking then your mirror is prolly stuck or a gear damaged. Either way, a new mirror is probably the answer. Plug it into the other side just to be sure.
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Project: Hillbilly Deluxe Project: Amazing Grace Project: 12-Volt Sandwich Quote:
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HELP REPEAL OBAMACARE Looking for 95-98 manual trans pedal bracket. Conducting an experiment for the betterment of all Ranger-kind. |
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