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Yet another Thermostat question


HAWK

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I need to replace my thermostat which I believe is stuck open. My Haynes manual is cryptic on where the thermostat is located. Everyone says to follow the upper rad hose to the thermostat housing. But where are the alleged bolts of the housing? Do I have to remove the timing cover? The reason I ask is I can't seem to find the bolts...as I was told they were right on top.

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.
 


modelageek

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if the reason you think it is stuck open because your heat is not working you are most likely correct but there is a slight chance there is a vaper lock in the system and you should try to get the air out. run the engine till it is warm, keep adding fluid as you squeeze the upper rad hose trying to get the air out. From my memory the bolts are 8mm there are 2 of them the thermostat is in the front of the engine not the top. The upper radiator hose is attached to the housing you will be removing the thermostat goes in the housing. THIS IS VERy IMPORTANT MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT MOTORCRAFT THERMOSTAT THAT IS FOR THE ENGINE. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU TAKE THE OLD ONE OUT YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TWIST IT FIRST BEFORE yOU TAKE IT OUT. you do not need to take the timing belt cover off. I would take the fan guard off to make it easier. after it is installed make sure you squeeze all the air out by squeezing the upper rad house while the engine is running to get all the air out
 

HAWK

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I'm assuming my thermo is bad due to the fact that my temp gauge never leaves it's Cold starting position. The heater works...but doesn't get as hot as it should unless moving at highway speeds.

The bolts must be hidden from view on the front "underside" (for lack of a better term) directly across from the fan? Which would probably be the only place I didn't thoroughly look.

Thanks for the info! :beer:
 
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HAWK

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Alright..I get it.



I see from this pic where the screws are located. I was told they were on "top" of the housing...thus my confusion. I just needed to reach up underneath to find them.
 

modelageek

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I think you want this motorcraft F8CZ-8575-AA and you should get a new oring gasket for the housing. I am not trying to ruin your fieldtrip but there are other things that could be causing your issue but a new tstat is never a bad idea. Also you should be able to tell if the tstat is open by feeling the upper rad hose
 

modelageek

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One other thought on my truck unless my cooling system was completly full and all the air purged out the gauge would fluctuate instantly just by reving the engine
 

HAWK

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I think you want this motorcraft F8CZ-8575-AA and you should get a new oring gasket for the housing. I am not trying to ruin your fieldtrip but there are other things that could be causing your issue but a new tstat is never a bad idea. Also you should be able to tell if the tstat is open by feeling the upper rad hose
Yes, I know. I just bought the truck and it has 180,000+ miles on it (I purchased it from the original owner). He assured me the thermo was original. So I figure it could use a new thermo anyways.

If you grab the upper rad hose after the truck has ran for about 10-15 mins, the hose if hot. Thoughts?
 

modelageek

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It is hard to tell outside temp effecr it also at 180k good idea to change it and the gasket let us no what happens. Make sure you read my first post the tstat has to sit properly in the housing or the coolant will pass thru it
 

HAWK

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So you recommend against an aftermarket thermostat even if the ratings are the same?
 

modelageek

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I went thru a NAPA POS (I spent a winter ver cold, lol) and then I put the MC in.I would never put anything but a MC tstat in my truck. IMHO
 

HAWK

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There's no Motorcraft thermostat available here locally except through the dealer which is $49. WTF?

I know Autozone sells a Duralast and Advance sells a Beck/Arnley.
 

modelageek

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Where do u live
 

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If the hose is hot after 10-15 minutes, your stat is fine, the temp sender for the guage is probably bad, which is typical. Regardless, if you're deadset on changing your stat, I use a Failsafe brand on all of my cars and have never had a bad one. Only a couple of bucks more than a house brand but run well.
 

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