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Is it suppose to do that?


crazy horse

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I recently bought a 1992 Ranger with a SUPPOSEDLY REBUILT 4.0. I just have to finish the job. I believe I have a bad fuel pump relay, in the process of checking that. Yesterday was my first time turning the motor over via ignition. I turned it over for about 10 seconds. I later ran down a fuel problem, fuel pump relay.

When I stopped turning it over, I came out and noticed smoke coming out of the air cleaner. I took it off and it was coming out of the throttle body. My first instincts is that is not a good sign, specially with a rebuilt motor.

Am I right? it suppose to not smoke, right?

Am I missing something?

Thanks
 


adsm08

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I personally feel that smoking is bad, but a lot of people keep telling me it is a personal choice.

Check the spark plug wire order first. Then maybe valve timing.
 

chewy012

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What did the smoke taste like? Yellow?

I've heard it's normal for a little smoke due to any excess assembly lube or oil burning off. But the one engine I've rebuilt did not. I guess the question is, how much smoke, and does it go away after running for a bit?




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crazy horse

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LOL on the taste. I’ll get some heroine or peyote to find out. JK!!!

It’s good to know that it is a common thing, and I’ll definitely watch for it to go away. Good point on checking spark plug arrangement.

I’m just getting into this thing, I’ll let you all know the turn out.

Thanks for the replies.
 

chewy012

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If you're anything like me, and even if you do your spark plugs one at a time, it seems you'll always goof up the order on the driver side.

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rusty ol ranger

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I wouldnt worry.
 

crazy horse

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The smoke has disappeared, but still at a stand still on what the problem is.

I have so far did a diagnostic for the EEC Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, and they passed, except on the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump relay control line had consistent power. That is showing the EEC is bad, or fried.

I did the EEC test, or KOEO. No codes, the regular 111.

I tested the inertia switch test, it comes back fine. Fuel pump checks out too.

I sprayed starter fluid in the intake, and tried to start it.
No spark.

Today, I'm going to test the tower on the coil pack to see why I'm not getting spark. The PO put a new one on, but I'm still going to check it.

Today, I'm going to check if the injectors are getting fire.

If I come back with no spark or fire for the injectors, should I assume it's the EEC?

Thanks.
 
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crazy horse

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I think I found the culprit, the crank sensor. I’ll change it out tomorrow and find out.
 

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I had a no start problem that baffled me for a few months. Turns out that a connector was not inserted together enough. I had taped it earlier so thought it was OK. Inside the connector the orange gasket was dry and a little lube fixed the problem.
 

crazy horse

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Ok, so I benched tested the crank sensor for resistance. I set my multi tester at 20K ohms, and got .67 research shows it should be at 2. Can anyone verify that by chance? I also tested the leads on the truck with a test light and ignition key on. Test light attached to positive side of battery. I’m suppose to get power. I tested both leads and get nothing. I don’t know what I’m missing.
 

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