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'95 4.0L won't start after getting warm


scottvor

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Now my truck is really making life tough for me. After it gets warm, it won't start back up. It will crank over but won't start. Sometimes it will idle roughly like a diesel for a few seconds and then die. I can let it cool down for say a half hour or so and then it fires right up. After a forum/internet search, I've replaced the Idle Air Control valve. Didn't make a difference. Anyone have any ideas? My truck has 130k miles on it.

much thanks, Scott
 


fireguy12117

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try a little experiment:

cycle the key numerious times (10+) get the fuel pump to cycle. this will bring fresh cooler fuel to the fuel rail. depend on the results it may be a clue for a somewhat known issue with these motors.

seems like sometimes heat radiates from the block into the fuel rail and causes a warm restart issue. try searching 'warm restat' or some varitions on the 4.0 forum and see what other discussions are out there.
 

scottvor

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thanks, will give it a try.
 

eric17mx

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Mine does the same shit i need to put this other rAdiator in because the one i have now leaks down about 3 inches
 

fireguy12117

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in some cases its because of heat radiating into the fuel rail causing the gas sitting in there to get hot. its not exactly due to coolant issues since no coolant ever gets near the fuel rail. i forget the specific scientific explanation of this, but its out there if you search this forum. other cases may be faulty sensors like a poor or completely bad coolant temp sensor.

i am in the process of trying to aquire a later model lower intake that has an insulating spacer to keep the fuel rail seperated from the lower intake as i have had this exact problem where i come out of the store and the truck wants to stall or wont start at all. once its running and down the road everything is fine again. its a nusance more than anything to me.
 

Bill

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I had a similar issue a few years ago. It turned out to be a bad relay. You can confirm this by swapping the fuel pump relay with another relay.

The relays only cost a few $$.
 

Big Jim M

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First thing to do

Mine does the same shit i need to put this other rAdiator in because the one i have now leaks down about 3 inches
FIND the leak.. If the radiator has coolant dripping from it..Ok replace the radiator.. But if it is dripping out of the coolant PUMP..fix that instead!

It isn't normal for the radiator to be low. Repair the problem or LOSE the engine entirely.

Sometimes it is as simple as the overflow hose is disconnected or has a hole in it.. If this happens the radiator cannot stay full, and will appear to be several inches low when the cap is taken off.

Before coolant tanks all radiators were low when cold. The tank was added to keep AIR out of the system..the air enables RUST in the coolant passages and should be eleminated.
Big Jim:wub::hottubfun:
 

scottvor

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Thanks again for all suggestions.

ARRGHHH.... this is driving me nuts. As from other suggestions/searches/internet research I've swapped out Idle Air Control Valve and Igntion Block assembly (had access to a '96 Explorer w/ the 4.0L). Same troubles. I can pop the hood after stopping, and the truck will start up again. Without the hood open, it will start for up to about 30 minutes but after 30-60 minutes, it says F' you, stay right where you are for the next hour or so.

I've tried cycling the key many times thinking it might bring fresh (cooler) fuel to the fuel rail. Doesn't help. It looks like there is a schrader valve stem on the fuel rail. Is this correct? Will a standard gauge fit on there? And for a few $, I'll have a go at swapping out the fuel pump relay.

On a plus note, I've been getting to work on my old '82 XT550 enduro. Iv'e got to get my truck sorted because I'm going to get a wheelie ticket soon!
 

eric17mx

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I know where the radiator is leaking from one of the side tanks i have a radiator from an explorer will these fit ranger? They look the same, i doubt ill lose the engine truck has been drivin over a year like this and it runs just fine except for that darn starting issue but it hasnt dont it since it has t been 100 out thanks for the advice though
 

oldfaithful

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Hi SCOTTVOR, have you found the source of the problem?

I'd certainly appreciate an update, because I've got a 97 that has a similar problem. My truck will start easily when cold but requires considerable cranking when warm. Strange, but I've noticed that it helps to hold the throttle open. I've also replaced the IAC valve with the same result as yours...no improvement. I've done a fuel pressure check and fuel pressure leak down check with no problem found there. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes showing.

Did I mention already that I'd really appreciate seeing an update on your solution! Thanks.
 

scottvor

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Still haven't found the problem but no worries as it went away!

As suggested above (thanks Bill), I started looking into the fuel pump relay.

The truck left me stuck at a gas station so I removed the fuel pump relay and stuck it in a wet towel. Its all I had available. After 5 minutes, I reinstalled the relay and off I went! Now this is not the guaranteed source of my trouble but before it was 30+ minutes until it could start up again. I picked up a relay at Kragen a few days later and..... the problem has never come back! Now this all did happen around September so the weather is much cooler though not like it gets that hot in coastal San Diego area. So, I've got the relay sitting in the glovebox waiting for the problem to come back. Stay tuned.....
 

oldfaithful

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Thanks for the update Scottvor.

I've also got an update for my own problem. In what I thought was a non-related issue, I have disabled my EGR by removing the tube between the EGR and intake manifold. However, that also cured my hard starting problem. Seems that the EGR was unable to close completely and the amount of exhaust allowed into the mix made it too lean to start properly when warm.

If anyone else has this problem, I hope this helps!
 

scottvor

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Problem solved! While running errands on New Years Eve (booze run), truck left me stranded in a Ralph's Supermarket parking lot. Popped the hood, grabbed the spare relay out of the glovebox, and crossed my fingers. It worked! I swapped back and forth enough times to confirm the problem would come and go and its all good. Thanks to all for suggestions. The relay cost me all of $7 at Kragen.
 

drewster001

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Now my truck is really making life tough for me. After it gets warm, it won't start back up. It will crank over but won't start. Sometimes it will idle roughly like a diesel for a few seconds and then die. I can let it cool down for say a half hour or so and then it fires right up. After a forum/internet search, I've replaced the Idle Air Control valve. Didn't make a difference. Anyone have any ideas? My truck has 130k miles on it.

much thanks, Scott
*Rule out a defective spark control module, its the rectangle cap next to your intake on the left side of the motor(looking in). Check to see if you have spark by removing a spark plug wire from one of the plugs and using a screwdriver bring the shaft about half inch from any metal bracket, turn over engine, if there is a strong spark proceed::

1) Check voltage in the ignition harness under the steering column, all hot (+) wires should read 12v and all (-) wires should be 12v- and show no resistance to the metal frame. Check voltage at the inertia switch on the passenger side floor near the trans hump. it should read 12 volts with the key in run. 2) If all this checks out try wiggling the wiring harness around the power distribution box. 3) Finally, check the pump harness for 12(-) and 12(+) as close to the pump as possible.

If your ignition(key) switch is faulty it may be intermittent and when failing, you wont see 12(+) on hot wires. Let me know how you make out.

drew
 

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