BW 1354 rebuild

French-connection · Nov 3, 2017

So, I started my transfer case rebuild.
I'll try to post pictures of the different stages as I go along.
1st. I'll have to remover the rear driveshaft flange to be able to split the case open.
I measured the nut size at 30mm, is that correct?

BTW, it doesn't look pretty... When I removed the transfer case, there was no input shaft seal left. I had a straight view on the bearing.

Stay tuned...

P.S. If a rebuild isn't going to be possible and I need to replace the transfer case, what options do I have for a direct bolt-on replacement?
I went so some junk yards and don't seem to be able to find another 1354. Thx.

lvwill · Nov 3, 2017

As far as I know the 1350/1354 have a unique Bolt pattern and input shaft. Would've been nice if Ford used the basically universal bolt pattern and input spline size on the rbv but they made it difficult.

French-connection · Nov 4, 2017

Ok. So here we go.
Managed to remove the rear flange and open the housing.
Oh boy!!! There’s a little bit of a mess.
https://postimg.org/gallery/28jsjmzju/
I think that the lump of plastic in one of the pictures is the mode fork.
Pump housing is damaged. Clutch too?!
Quite some wear on the chain gears, but I think it should be ok. How much slack should be in the chain?
I’m sure I’ll find some more once I pull the shafts out and get a closer look.

4x4junkie · Nov 4, 2017

The 1354 was used in all 4x4 RBVs starting with 1990 models manufactured after 11-1989 (1991-1994 for Explorers), so the 1354 itself is not exactly rare.

I do see "2002 FX4" in your sig though... The later manual-shift versions (if that's what yours is) can be very hard to come by.

My hunch is most likely you would be able to scavenge most, if not all, of the parts you need to rebuild yours from any electric-shift 1354 from a '98-'11 Ranger. I think only the front half of the main case is unique to the manual-shift cases (due to the shifter mechanism). The rear half does have the hole for the electric shifter shaft (and the wire for the spin-up clutch on '98-'00 trucks), but these are the only differences I can think of off the top of my head, and the holes on the rear can be plugged closed easy enough. If you find major damage to the front case half though, then the possibility of a long hunt could lie ahead. I've had some decent luck with www.car-part.com for rarer items.

Edit:
I just noticed the electric shift motor shaft in one of your pics I had saved earlier to enlarge part of it... What you have should not be difficult to find a replacement for. Car-part.com should yield you plenty to choose from.

Denisefwd93 · Nov 5, 2017

just trying to help with copy and paste

French-connection · Nov 5, 2017

Thanks for the response and advice.
I dug a little deeper today and I dont think that it’ll be possible to salvage this unit.
Too much damage to it.
I’m trying to keep some good parts, but I’m struggling with bearing snap rings.
How are these types being removed?

They need to be compressed, but don’t have eyelets to use pliers.
Thanks for all the help.

I’ll keep posting once I get the replacement transfer case.

alwaysFlOoReD · Nov 5, 2017

Just a guess on the snap ring. use one screwdriver to stop the ring from spinning and use a flat on the other end, twisting and prying at the same time. The twist should move it out of the groove and the pry should pop it over the shoulder.

4x4junkie · Nov 5, 2017

alwaysFlOoReD said:
Just a guess on the snap ring. use one screwdriver to stop the ring from spinning and use a flat on the other end, twisting and prying at the same time. The twist should move it out of the groove and the pry should pop it over the shoulder.

This.

There's a tang on the end of the snap ring so you can pry it out of it's groove.

French-connection · Nov 6, 2017

Thanks for all the feedback.

I've been looking for a replacement unit and found two options.
Very different ones...

1. $250, 16k miles, A condition, delivered.
2. $50, 118k miles, A condition, have to get it about 1.5h away.

Both are from salvage yards through car-part.com. (Thanks 4X4junkie)
What do you guys think?
1st one is a safe bet, but the 2nd would save me a ton of money.

Thanks

alwaysFlOoReD · Nov 6, 2017

Is 3 hours of your time plus fuel worth $200.00?

Denisefwd93 · Nov 6, 2017

alwaysFlOoReD said:
Is 3 hours of your time plus fuel worth $200.00?

I have one out of a 98 that I'll probably never use and I have not been able to sell in 3 years only 62 k on it

Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

French-connection · Nov 7, 2017

Thanks for the offer, but I think that there're quite a few differences between your TC and the model on mine, no?

So, I think I'm going to buy the more expensive one if I can confirm the low mileage.
The only concern I actually have with this is what risks do I take with a TC that old (2004) and low miles? I.e. rotten seals, oil pump and filter, oil getting old, etc.

Is it a no-brainer to just bolt it up under the truck?

---update---

I just ordered the case. It'll be delivered tomorrow. I'll post pictures when I get it.

French-connection · Nov 8, 2017

New one is here!
Looks nice, input shaft seal in great shape and it even came with a shift motor.
I’m happy.

French-connection · Nov 10, 2017

I looked for any information about bolt torque for the transfer case to transmission.
The only thing I found was a little ambiguous and said that it’s 25-35 lb-ft.
Is that correct?

I found that info here.

Thanks

4x4junkie · Nov 10, 2017

My FSM also says 25-35, so what you found is correct.

BW 1354 rebuild

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Forum Staff Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Forum Staff Member

Forum Staff Member

New Member

Forum Staff Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Forum Staff Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals