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460; My e350 RV, and my f250 work truck


alwaysFlOoReD

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The other day I hooked up a starter to the flexplate and it was good enough to turn the motor over with all the sparkplugs out. I don't know if the flexplate mounted starter would be good enough if I was actually trying to start the engine.

The 3 cylinders that had no pushrods on the intake valves spewed a wack of gas out the holes....I wasn't expecting that! But it makes sense now that I think about it. The injectors were still firing all the time I was screwing with the timing chain and all the times I had it running. It spewed enough that I think the runners affected were full up to the top. Glad I had the plugs out or I may have hydro-locked the engine. I'll have to remember to change the o2 sensors.

Yesterday I used a 1/4" x 5/16" deep socket and extensions to drive the oil pump hex shaft. I ran it for 10 minutes with not much oil coming up the pushrods. This sucks. I'm hoping that being in close to freezing weather may have caused condensation to freeze up and block passages. I'm working under a tarp...no heat. I put a 300 watt bulb on top of the intake last night and hope that's enough heat to melt any frost inside. I'll find out this morning. I have a pan gasket and rear main seal on order because I think it's not going to work and will have to physically check inside the pan.
 


alwaysFlOoReD

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SNAFU - Situation Normal - All Fuct Up! <<< Just in case you didn't know what the acronym meant.

I got the oil to come out all the pushrods a little bit. I also borrowed a pressure gauge and tested, the oil pressure was at 65psi at less than 350 rpm's [what my cordless drill is capable of doing in first gear]. On to the main seal.

I received my pan set and a rear main seal. I removed the pan and saw no signs of crud blocking the pick-up and I opened up the pump and it also looked normal. OK....Go to replace the rear main seal, popped the cap off and couldn't get the in block half of the seal to rotate around and out. So now what? I decide to loosen all the caps and pry up at the end of the crank to create some clearance. Proceed...and as I take off the nut that holds the bracket that supports the pickup tube, the tube drops away from the pump! WTF!!!! Typical for this last couple months; Murphy's law; What can go wrong - will go wrong. I talk to the machine shop and they tell me it's a press fit. OK, I'll punch out the little bit left in the flange, file the bracket hole more oblong, and shift the tube over enough to do a new press fit. NOPE, the tube has been brazed to the flange. Drill it out slightly undersize and grind the tube to fit, and then weld the tube to the flange. Success...I hope. Now on to lifting the crank. A couple of long bars and up it came. The old seal was easy to remove and the new seal slid into place without too much hassle.

The main bearings looked OK and I didn't check the rod bearings as I'm hoping the original owner was honest when he said there was no noises from the bottom end. I have no reason to distrust him.

Next is install.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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2WD / 4WD
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I got the engine installed and bolted everything up underneath. Tomorrow I'll be doing the top side.

In other news; Back in July my street parked 77 f250 got hit while someone was backing out of a driveway. Insurance finally offered me $1,500.00. I accepted and bought it back for $150.00 with a salvage title. The truck is too far gone to make it worthwhile to try to pass a salvage inspection, but I bought it back for the engine/trans, not for restoration. And with some of the money I bought a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6l/auto. Paid $800. It has some issues but I still have my 2003 f150 with a pooched 4.6 to use for parts. This is going to be my new work truck. First thing I fixed was the headlight/dimmer switch. Next is a pair of new tires to match the pair from my 77 f250 that are near new. The tires will go onto the 98 f150. Also needing repair are the door locks, drivers door window crank, and radio.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Make / Model
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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
It's been a learning experience.
I buttoned everything up and fired it up for a few seconds. It sounded great. I then decided to replace the thermostat and broke a bolt...shit. I pulled the dizzy and fixed the broken bolt. Heat and a lot of hammer tapping and lots of wd40. used a easy out meant for nuts and it came out easy.
I re-installed the dizzy and fired up the engine. It rattled like a can full of bearings! WTF!
I pulled the dizzy and used a magnet to retrieve the oil pump drive. I used a 5/16" socket taped to an extension and placed it into the oil pump. I could feel resistance when I turn the extension so knew it was in place properly. Installed the dizzy and no more rattle. Yeah!
I ended up removing the distributor one more time and after installing it the engine rattled AGAIN. I finally figured out that suction on the dizzy end pulled the shaft out of the oil pump and let the shaft drop into the pan. Now I know and so do you. The reason why is from the factory there is a washer that grips the oil pump shaft. This washer allows the shaft to be placed in the block and not fall thru while the engine is upside down. The oil pump is installed and the shaft is trapped. This engine the washer was missing and I didn't know what it was originally for.
 

bf750

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V8 Engine Swap
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2. Crap
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Automatic
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Tire Size
33 1250 15
My credo
It is what it is

alwaysFlOoReD

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Make / Model
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Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I got it running and drove it a few hundred yards into a friends shop. I spent the last two days wire wheeling the old paint and caulking off the roof. I bought 5 gallons of RC2000, a paint meant for metal roofs $300. Ends up I could have done the job with one gallon. Now it's time to check the fridge, electrical, propane and water systems.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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2WD / 4WD
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I pressurized the water system, it held 25 psi for 5 minutes...good enough. I cracked a tap and pink anti-freeze came out so it looks as the original owner took care of that.

I went and bought 2 x 6-volt batteries, that cost just about as much as the RV did :icon_surprised: As I was unloading the second battery my shoulder gave out and I hit the bottom of the battery against a sharp edge. FUCQUE!!! Battery acid came streaming out over the tailgate and some got my pants as well. I phoned the Battery Doctors [the local place where I buy all my batteries ...I try to support local.] and they said they could weld it shut for about $30-40. Well, at least it's salvageable.

There are a bunch of cubby holes around the outside of the RV. EVERY one had a different key. What a pain in the ass that gets to be. I happened to be in Princess Auto and thought I would check for locks. It happens they had some sets hanging up, and they were all keyed the same...:icon_surprised: :icon_bounceblue: I cleaned them out, and $10 a pop isn't bad until you add up the total...$100.00! At least I won't be a walking chime.

There is two fuel tanks. One is a homemade job and the fuel lines are dry rotted. The tank is full too! It was fun watching the tow truck driver leave a trail way back when I first got this unit. Back then I just used a needle nose vise grip to crimp the line as best I could. Today I checked and the tank selector valve wasn't hooked up properly. The OO had it set so the second tank fed into the first tank and that is where the fuel got pumped from to the engine. When I get a chance I'll wire everything up properly, including routing the fuel lines. Mean time I just looped a line from the outlet to the return, so the tank is isolated for now.

The engine doesn't idle very well when cold. I'll have to change the o2 sensor as I suspect it has never been looked at. I'll also check the IAC valve to make sure it's not stuck.

Tomorrow I take it home and start loading all my clothing, food, and whatever else will fit. Well, after I clean all the mouse droppings ....:annoyed: As soon as I'm loaded I head out to a job. The job should last about a week which will be a good shake down.
 

bf750

Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
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Messages
203
Reaction score
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1988
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Engine Type
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Engine Size
2. Crap
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
33 1250 15
My credo
It is what it is

alwaysFlOoReD

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Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I still haven't made more than a mile down the road. As soon as the engine warms up the fuel pressure drops when the throttle is opened. I replaced the fuel pump because I had put a used one in and thought it was bad. New one was a waste of $125.00 as the problem persists. Next is a fuel pressure regulator AFTER I test and make sure that's the problem. Hopefully have it fixed tonight.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Not the fuel regulator.....
I'm going to disconnect the first and plumb in the second tank. Maybe there is something clogging the pickup.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Turns out the "new" low pressure pump was not pushing enough volume. Now hooking up the selector valve correctly and i should be good to go.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Great news, It runs ....woo-hoo!
It's running very good so far, got it up to 80Kph/50mph. No shakes, shimmies or odd noises. BUT there was a large oil puddle likely from the rear main seal. I did replace it but I had a hell of a time and it looks like I wrecked it putting it in. Oh well, seems to be par for the course for the last few months.
BUT it's RUNNING !!!!!
Now time to clean it up and pack my shit in.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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Vehicle Year
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Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I've been living in my RV for a couple of days now. Everything except the rear main seal seems to work. I'm slowly getting things organized, I hope the weather holds for a couple more weeks so I can build a tarp garage to work in during the winter.
 

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