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Ignition Control Module 94 2.3L


BobbyB2300

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I was clearing a code 224 and diagnosed it to the Ignition Control Module(ICU). Whilst replacing I noticed there were only three bolts tapped into the manifold mount. I'm missing the fourth bolt hole in upper left corner of the ICU. These modules do not work with only two bolts, you must have all three bolted down...ground issue I'm sure. The 224 fault code is all but gone after I replaced the ICU a few days ago. It's breifely reared its ugly head on two brief occasions opposed to constant check engine light memory code.


Does it only have three bolts by design? Now I wonder, is the fourth missing bolt a contributing factor to the ICU failure and the code 224?

What say ye? Oh, by the way first post, love the board.
 


BobbyB2300

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Tough crowd.:fie::nopityA:
 

BobbyB2300

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Let's try something new gang: Dialog! :icon_rofl:
 

RobbieD

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Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
It seemed like there were only 3 bolts when I changed mine, and I just checked the shop manual. It shows only three bolts- both lowers and one upper, on the right side. Also, your replacement module should have included a pack of white goo; it's important to spread it on the back of the module before you mount it.

Sometimes it takes a while to get a response from somebody; it's just luck of the draw.
 

4b316

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You have to have the upper left bolt in to ground completly.I have "fixed" a few rangers that wouldn't start for guys simply by running a new ground to the upper left corner.My 2 cents
 

BobbyB2300

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Three or four bolts, regardless, my ICM needs a better ground. The Ford Ranger Code 224 code is an Ignition Control Module fault. The ICM should have four bolts...there is a green dot where the missing bolt is, looks like a QC catch.

I'm running a ground from the lower left bolt to the battery/block mount.

The ground on these modules is not the back plate, the back plate is a heat shield for the module logic circuit. The white goo is for heat dissapation. The ground is tied to pin 7(lower left) and connected to the left lower and upper left bolts(looking form the front of the truck), it's a redundatnt ground, they are in a series. This why it won't start if you only secure the two easy bolts to the right. Flakey ground = code 224

Without a correct ground this gem of engineering peels off all kinds of spout, CID, 1234 coil errors.

If you have four bolts good for you, if you have three bolts...get to grounding this rediculous piss poor model of incompetent engineering. Ground it from the lower left bolt to the blcok ground or directly to the battery.

1994 Ford Ranger Code 224 is a faulty ground to the Ignition Control Module. If this info saves you $165 for a new module, send Corona's to TRS, care of...

BobbyB2300
 

BobbyB2300

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It seemed like there were only 3 bolts when I changed mine, and I just checked the shop manual. It shows only three bolts- both lowers and one upper, on the right side. Also, your replacement module should have included a pack of white goo; it's important to spread it on the back of the module before you mount it.

Sometimes it takes a while to get a response from somebody; it's just luck of the draw.
Why did you change it out, what were the symptoms, codes? What was the diagnosis that led you to swap out the Ignition Control Module?
 

BobbyB2300

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You have to have the upper left bolt in to ground completly.I have "fixed" a few rangers that wouldn't start for guys simply by running a new ground to the upper left corner.My 2 cents

I feel ya, I'm down with that, ditto what he said, thx man! Although I can't use the upper left...there's no freakin hole tapped! LOL, it is a ground fault, no mistake, thx for the input bro.
 
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BobbyB2300

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Ignition Control Modules are expensive and very unforgiving if installed incorrectly. Many times people misdiagnose this as a bad power train computer(PCM) problem...it's not. This misdiagnosis is costing people big!

Post your thoughts\experience here people. Let's party!

:hottubfun:
 

BroncoV6

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My 2.3L 93 Ranger died suddenly while I was driving it. Now I have no spark. The hand held code reader showed a stored code 33 for the EGR valve that I had disconnected for a short while and no other codes. I took the ignition controll module to two different Auto Zone stores and they said thet the module was good. I had the truck towed to the Ford dealership and they say that the ignition control module is bad!!! Who should I believe? The delaer wants $590.00 to replace the module and Auto Zone wants less than $200.00 for theirs. I can replace the module myself, BUT what if that isn't the problem? Then I have waisted money on a module that I didn't need and money for a diagnostic at the dealership that didn't tell me anything. Anyone have any advice on what I should do?
Thanks, Alan
 

Joelzme

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Have you checked your coil packs?

Thats a tough one. If you are good with electronics you might want to spend the $25 and get a subscribtion to Alldata and run the electrical troubleshooting. You can check on the signals from there.

Otherwise you may want to check out a junk yard and see if a cheap replacement fixes your problem, that is what I would do first off. I was in the same position as you and went ahead and bought it from autozone and it fixed my problem (my truck was not dead tho).

What else have you done to try and trouble shoot the problem?

Have you checked your battery, plugs, wires, etc?
 

TireIron

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did your timing belt snap?
 

BroncoV6

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No ignition spark

My timing belt is fine. The battery is ok and the motor will turn over just fine but will not start. I have checked all the fuses and wiring connections. I have plenty of fuel and oil and nothing seems to have gone wrong mechanically.
I was told by the Ford dealership that it is the ignition module, but two different Auto Zone stores ran their analyzer diagnostic on the ignition module and said that mine was fine. (by ignition module I mean the one that is mounted on the side of the intake manifold). Does anyone know how accurate the analyzers that the auto part stores use are? Versus the Ford dealership?
1993 Ford Ranger 2.3L, 5 Spd 132,000 mi and has never missed a beat - untill the other day.
 

BobbyB2300

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I would open the Power Distribution Box and replace the EEC Relay(about 5 bucks) and inspect/reseat the fuses in there as well. Make sure all the bolts on the ICM are tight. I would think you would get a hard code 224 if the ICM was failing.
 

BroncoV6

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Today the guy from Auto Zone let me try one of their ignition control modules and nothing changed as for as the motor starting.
There are 3 relays in the power distribution box that are exactly the same. I have traded the other 2 into the ICM position with no change. I have also checked the fuses in there and cleaned the terminals. I have also taken apart and cleaned all the connections under the hood and no results.
Next step is to remove the timing cover and change the crank position sensor and cam position sensor. One book shows there is no cam position sensor on my motor and another book shows that there is. I guess I will find out for sure tomorrow.
 
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