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2.3 L Ford Ranger 2WD - rough idling and stall upon acceleration


danielwd

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I was stranded a few weeks ago, where my ranger just gave out - felt like I was riding with half power or two cylinders. The engine was jumping around and really idling very rough. Figured it was the throttle position sensor. Changed plugs and wires and throttle position sensor in the parking lot with no luck and had it towed back home. The EGR valve and Idle Air Valve are new. I cleaned the MAF sensor today. I have sprayed carb cleaner everywhere with no change in RPM's (looking for vacuum leaks). The muffler has a validated leak, which is new I think. The muffler rumbles and makes a loud, deeply pitched rumbling. I think is a new development. The CODES I have pulled are: 326 (Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) snsor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage lower than expected); 411 (Cannot control RPM during Engine Run Self-Test - low RPM check; 538 (Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test {Engine Run Self-Test}. or, Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement. or, Invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems.)

I doubt a leaky muffler would cause the rougher idling and stalling upon acceleration. The 326 and 538 codes have been posting for years and the truck ran fine. After the change of throttle position sensor, the truck idles 99% better than it did in the parking lot when I was stranded. In fact, I can barely tell a difference when idling in neutral than before the break down. The thing is running great, until I try and drive it. Also, it used to start first try, now it is taking two tries to get it to start.

I changed out the fuel pump, fuel filler, and fuel filter this summer after I broke down. That solved the problem, and the truck has been running fine since a few weeks ago.

Any help would be appreciated - I am leaning towards checking the timing to make sure the timing belt did not jump off for a second, and, also, I am wondering if the cam sensor is malfunctioning, although it seems like that would throw a code. I did observe the timing belt through the peep hole, and it looked good.

Also I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body recently when I changed out the EGR valve. I also changed out the PCV today.

Again, thanks for any help.
 


JamesH

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I would think the timing is the most likely culprit. Try a vacuum guage and get an idea where else to think about looking

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

tomw

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The description left me wondering what the problem was. ... I re-read the whole thing, and came up with: Idle is 99% of what it was, and it stalls upon acceleration.

The codes listed:
The CODES I have pulled are:
326 (Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) snsor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage lower than expected);
I suspect the DPFE sensor.

411 (Cannot control RPM during Engine Run Self-Test - low RPM check;
The IAC cannot change the rpm as desired during KEOR self test, I suspect IAC

538 (Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test {Engine Run Self-Test}. or, Invalid cylinder balance test - throttle position movement. or, Invalid cylinder balance test - cylinder identification problems.)
The Dynamic Response Test requires you to stomp on the gas pedal and immediately release it after the beep code is given. Did you floor it and release? If not, you'll get this code.

If you have DPFE and IAC problems, it may run poorly. The DPFE is used to measure EGR flow, and if it is goofy, you may get too much, and cause engine misfire.
The IAC controls idle rpm, and compensates for load changes, such as A/C, power steering, and cold fast idle. If the idle is unstable, clean the IAC and see if that helps.
tom


326
 

danielwd

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Thanks everyone for your replies. Tom, I meant to say (but was unclear) that the idle is way more improved after changing the throttle position sensor. Beforehand, on idle, the engine looked really bad, jumping and moving around. The idle was just terrible.

I am convinced that I fixed the original problem by changing the throttle position sensor.

In fact, I just went out and worked on it for a bit, and before I started tearing things out, I figured I would do some more simpler troubleshooting.

I have an old style pen tool that allows me to place the tool on the spark wires, and it illuminates when there is spark. All of them checked out except the two plug wires leading to the first two plugs on the exhaust side. I am unable to see any illumination in the pen style tool no matter where I place it.

The idling is still perfect. It looks like a great running engine, but I suspect that this is something simple. Maybe I am convinced of such because I just don't want to spend the time tearing everything out to look at timing.

I am going to get two new spark plugs and try them out ASAP before I go any further.

One quick question...I took off the top of the plug wire off the top of the coil pack, which is something I get nervous about, from the plug that I am not receiving evidence of spark, and the engine did not respond. I could hear and see the sparking form the coil pack to the top of the plug wire though very clearly. But interestingly, I did the same for a plug wire from the intake side that I am receiving evidence of spark, and the engine did not really respond negatively from that action either. I have never done that - removed a plug wire from the coil pack while the engine is running. I figure it is dangerous. I really don't want to do it again because I fear going to the hospital trying to fix a very old truck.

I'll report back after I go get two new plugs and try them out.

Thanks again for all the input.
 

scrapper

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I dont think getting shocked by the coil will kill you or send you to the hospital. I never heard of that. I guess if you jumped and smacked your yourself on something it would be a problem? I think its kinda like pissing on an electric fence? I never did that but have been hit with spark from a coil.If not not getting spark on the wire then it isnt the plug sounds like a bad wire or coil? Could be what sends the signal to the coil to tell it to spark.
 

danielwd

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Thanks scrapper for your input. I guess I feel a little bit more comfortable now about taking off a coil with the engine running for diagnostic purposes. It looked like a dangerous situation to me.

The problem is that the plug wire and coil pack were definitely receiving/sending voltage. So, to me, that would indicate an issues post plug wire and specifically towards the plugs themselves. But that's strange because the plug wire and spark plugs are brand new. I know I gaped them perfectly, but I guess I will take them out and have another look.

BTW, I believe the cam sensor sends voltage pre coil spark, but I don't think my truck has a cam sensor. Still though, I am convinced this is an issue post plug wire, meaning my coils and plug wires are in working condition.

Thanks again for your input.
 

BCanuck

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Removing wires off of a running engine is hard on a coil pack. I wouldn't recommend it.
There is a lot of sites with info on how to test your sensors so you dont have to replace everything. :icon_thumby:

As for your codes, i agree you may have a DPFE issue. One of the sensors like the DPFE could cause the engine to run rough which would cause the other sensors to go crazy. Have seen one sensor cause a whole list of codes.

All in all, i would test your sensors and check the DPFE for vacuum leaks and test wiring.


Missfire help site... http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/2.3L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-misfire-1

Cheers!
 

BCanuck

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From an external site.. dpfe and egr testing


Step 1) Check the condition of the vacuum hoses going to the DPFE sensor and the EVR. Look for cracks or tears. Replace the hose if you find any.

Step 2) Check the operation of the DPFE with the engine off, key in the run position. Using a digital voltmeter, check for voltage on the brown/light green wire. Look for a reading between .45 and 1.1 volts. If your reading is outside that range, you have one more voltage check to perform before replacing the sensor. Check the voltage on the brown/white wire. It should read 5 volts. If it doesn’t, the sensor isn’t getting power from the computer. Then it’s a whole new ballgame. If you have 5 volts, and the reading from the brown/light green wire is outside the range, replace the DPFE. After replacement, perform the voltage check again to eliminate the possibility that the EGR valve is not seating properly.

Step 3) Leave your meter connected and start the engine. The voltage SHOULD NOT CHANGE! That’s because there should be no EGR flow at idle. If the DPFE voltage changes, either the EGR pintle isn’t seating properly and it’s allowing exhaust flow past the seat, or the DPFE is bad.

Step 4) Remove the EGR valve and check the condition of the pintle, pintle seat, and the EGR passages. They will be coated with black soot. But the passages should not be clogged and the pintle should move off its seat with the application of vacuum. Clean
the pintle, pintle seat, and passages with carb or throttle body cleaner.
 

tomw

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The intake side spark plugs don't get used at lower rpms. The exhaust side will, OTOH, cause misfire at idle, for sure, and maybe at higher rpms, if they fail.
IOW, you could disconnect the intake side coil, and you'd never know the difference.
Internally, the coil pack has two coils, one for cylinders 1&4, and the other for 2&3. I think. If one fails, you'll lose spark on two cylinders.
You could swap coils, and find out for sure if one is bad.
tom
 

danielwd

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Tom...I was taking your advise and noticed I had plugs swapped. Truck runs like it is brand new.

In fact, it is running too good...rpms to high at idle. My temperature gauge has never ran over the letter "N" in the Normal range since 1994 when I bought the truck, and it went all the way to the "l". Also, a puddle of the coolant dropped out.

I let it run for about 30 minutes, ran it round the block a few times, and the temperature settled in at "N". I also see no more coolant dropping.

I am figuring that letting it run for a few minutes at a time with two plug wires swapped out let fuel build up in the two exhaust cylinders, which didn't burn off until now.

The engine is definitely running differently - it is roaring, but it reminds of when it was new. I think it just seems like it is "roaring" because I am not used to the new plugs, new throttle position sensor (which proved to the original culprit), and new plug wires. I also cleaned the hound out of the throttle body, cleaned the IAC valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and installed a new EGR valve.

All this work, plus the residual fuel that saturated the two cylinders that weren't firing is probably causing the high temperature and coolant drop out of the spout at radiator.

Thanks for all the advice...you can tell I'm NOT a mechanic...so you're help has been appreciated.
 

danielwd

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One thing I hope to see is improved gas mileage. I know this truck like the back of my hand being the original owner since 1994 and doing every single repair on it. It was sucking down fuel like I had never seen it do before. I never measured, but I swear I could see the needle moving. It was especially bad right before the throttle position sensor finally gave out. Hopefully that will drastically improve.

Thanks again to everyone for all the suggestions.
 

tomw

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If the fuel pressure regulator failed, the mileage would drop like a rock also. A friend had a 4.0 A*star, and it used to get ~19-20. All of a sudden, 10mpg, and black smoke. Regulator died, and pressure was high. The Chermans are proud of their parts, and the regulator was a product of their workmanship. And about $100... Made a big difference immediately.
If you check yours, at idle, removing the vacuum line should bump the pressure, and you should NOT smell fuel at the diaphragm port. If you do, the diaphragm is likely failed, and feeding fuel into the intake. If you have the 'returnless' system, I don't know the regulator style as it may be electronic with a 'fuel pump driver module' that fiddles with juice to feed the pump motor 'adjusted' electricity and so modulate fuel pressure. No diaphragm involved.
tom
 

danielwd

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That's good advice...I already checked the fuel pressure and it checked out.

It was definitely my throttle position sensor that failed. A failing/failed TPS will make fuel mileage tank, which is apparently what was happening to my truck. I checked my fuel regulator early on as you suggested and it checked out good.
 

danielwd

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...updating...

Another update. So this has been quite the adventure.

I was wrong all along, at least I think so.

Ultimately, the issue was a failed fuel injector at intake port #3. The complication of the issue arose because it was intermittent, making it seem like some of the fixes I accomplished, were actual fixes (when they really were not).

I did solve many codes that have been popping up for years though. So I guess there's always that.

Thankfully, I haven't really dropped much money, although I am entertaining the idea of replacing all the injectors. That would run close to $300 after taxes with aftermarket Autozone injectors. I know many would object to this, but I doubt I would be interested in OEM injectors because of cost. Plus every aftermarket part I've put on this truck has worked fine in the past.

Funny story, and you can please feel free to make complete fun of me because I know I am NOT a mechanic. I guess I mention this in case somebody else is following behind me chasing the same issues an error codes. So, after I took the upper intake manifold off the truck, I placed four pieces of paper towel wadded up in the holes on the lower intake manifold so no screws, etc... would enter and wind up in valves/cylinders.

The only problem was that I needed to relieve fuel pressure to take the fuel rail and injectors off/out.

So dummy me unplugs the inertia switch and cranks for 15 seconds...

...with the wads of paper towel still in the lower intake.

Just lovely.

I need no other evidence to support the idea I am not a mechanic than this bonehead move.

Thankfully, after removing the lower intake, the wads of paper towel did not make into the valves, but they did come awfully close.
 

tomw

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FWIW, FoMoCo injectors are not a common failure point. Not saying they don't fail, but it is uncommon. Personally I would not replace them if they are functional. Likely you will not note any change in performance as they are likely functioning to spec.
If you want to do something, you can have them professionally cleaned and checked, removed from the engine and sent off. Some will do the cleaning and poking around for $20 each. Some will even return the injectors along with a flow graph to show how balanced they are after the process.
tom
 

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