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Help with removing bed of 1995 mazda b2300


mterrase

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Do I need to remove the bed to get to the fuel pump? If so, what toold will I need and what's involved as far as time? Also, Will I break any brackets doing this? Just want to know that up front in case I need to be prepared to get new brackets or bolts etc.

I do not know what the heck I am doing but my truck just won't start anymore. I was able to start it with sprays of ether but that doesn't work anymore.

So, first I need to get the bed off so I can get to the gas tank to get to the pump.

Is there anyone out there can point me in the right direction please?

I am almost certain I need to change the fuel pump.
 


chrwilkins30

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Don't have a bed but if i remember it is a 55 torx bit(not 100%) and 6 of them and that's all that is to it.
 

Diehardfordman

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Before that I would look at the fuel filter much easier to fix. Is it a fuel issue or spark issue? Yes it takes torx bit to remove bed or you could drop the tank itself. What brought you to believe it was the pump? I might be able to help along with others.
 

mterrase

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Fuel pump

I think it's the fuel pump b/c when I give it gas it kills. The only way to keep it running is to spry ether and then it runs but... no either=no run. So thats why I think it's the fuel pump. But I prob. need to change the filter as well.
 

mterrase

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Oh, thanks for responding! I appreciate your time.
 

TheTopher

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55 torx and I think a 7mm to disconnect the fuel filler neck from the bed, and you can undo the tail-light connections with your fingers.


I agree on the filter change first. It's MUUUCH easier than doing a fuel pump. Plus, as old as your truck is, you need to replace it any way. When I changed mine out, the gas I dumped out was orange.


Rent a fuel pressure gauge from autozone and take a look at your pressure. It should be between 30-40psi. Mine sits right around 32.
 
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legoms013

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If you take the bed off:

Its 6 big torx bolts

One tail light harness

and 3 small screws at the filler neck.

Have you and a friend pick the bed up, and move it back about 2 feet and set it back down on the frame.
 
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modelageek

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I was able to start it with sprays of ether but that doesn't work anymore.
you might have multiple issues? check your fpr?
 

modelageek

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In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.
 

TheTopher

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Fair warning, an impact wrench on those bed bolts is NOISY. It turns your entire bed into a percussion instrument. It's a great way to piss off the neighbors, I had the cops called on me for doing it at 8pm. Use a breaker bar and pipe extension, it works better on bolts that attach to loose clips anyway and you'll still have your hearing afterwards.
 
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Diehardfordman

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Fair warning, an impact wrench on those bed bolts is NOISY. It turns your entire bed into a percussion instrument. It's a great way to piss off the neighbors, I had the cops called on me for doing it at 8pm. Use a breaker bar and pipe extension, it works just as well and you'll still have your hearing afterwards.
:icon_rofl: how true, the noise is LOUD! Neighbors do not like the 5 in the morning wake up call either. I would look at the easier things like the filter and regulator before going nuts on the bed. :icon_thumby:
 

Boggin

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its a T55 torx head on 6 bolts, then the tail light plug in and the filler neck needs to be unscrewed. i removed mine myself a couple times but now i have this rigged up:


 

auto117584

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I have a '95 B2300 as well, and just removed the bed a couple days ago to replace the fuel pump assembly. They ARE 55 Torx bolts. Mine came out easy with a 1/2" breaker bar stepped down to 3/8" drive, for the torx socket. I had to buy a whole set of Torx sockets, about $20, but it's possible to find just the 55. You can get under the truck and spray PB on the exposed threads, if you want, although I didn't do that. The front bolt next to the gas tank isn't accessible from the bottom, but the other five are. You can also heat the females, the part the bolts screw into, with a plumber's torch to help break the rust. Getting new bolts is a good idea, I got some and they were reasonable. The only problem I had was getting the supply and return lines off the 5/16" and 3/8" pipe stubs at the top of the fuel pump assembly. Mine were rusted and they would NOT slide off. I put vise grips on both the hard plastic fitting and the pipe stub, and pried them off with a carpenter's "flat bar". I did that to one of them. On the other one, I whacked (wacked?) one of the vise grips in the come-off direction, and it came out after ten or so whacks. I'm waiting on a new fill pipe. Will siphon the tank and clean it with a rag tomorrow afternoon, then install the new fuel pump assembly. I'm sure it was the assembly on my truck, because I saw the gas spray from the rusted out supply pipe there on top, after removing the bed. Make sure to troubleshoot your problem real well, until there's no doubt what the problem is. It's a lot of work to do for nothing if you're only guessing it's the pump.
 
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