Will a 2010-2011 8.8 with disc brakes fit an 09 with drum brakes no problem?

[TnRanger]

Just wondering if it is a clean swap? Just swap rear ends and calipers and whatnot? I'm going to swap to 4.10 gears so why not get disk brakes if its easy enough.

 

[pjtoledo]

there are differences between 2010 and 2004. I'm not sure how the 2009 is configured.
2010/2011 do not have a speed sensor on the differential.
springs and driveshaft are the same, brakes and speed sensor are different.
the flange where the drum plate mounts to the axle housing is different, both in size and orientation.

there is an old post detailing 2010/2011 axles, I'll see if I can find it.


try this:

oops, Photobucket is mad at me for going over the "free" limit. they distort the pictures now and want me to get a paid membership.

2010 axle vs 2004 differences

this may take a while,, in the meantime this was at the Gilmore Museum about 8 years ago. comparing 2 axles, one from a 2010 big bearing 28 spline from a 2wd reg cab 2.3 auto,,the other 2004 4x4 small bearing, 28 spline. both are open diffs. the 2010 diff does not have a tone ring at the ring...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[4x4junkie]

Without the speed sensor your '09 won't have a speedometer signal, so no, not a clean swap.

Your best option would be an 8.8" from a '95-'01 Explorer if it's disc brakes you're after (4.10:1 was also fairly common on Explorers). The Ex axle will need spring perches and shock mounts welded onto it (also adapting the parking brake cables), but everything else is pretty straightforward. You'll need new (wider) U-bolts & spring plates with either the Explorer axle, or the later Ranger axle due to the larger diameter axle tubes.

The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Swap

therangerstation.com

 

[19Walt93]

I had a 2004 Ranger with rear drums for 7+ years, every spring I removed the drums to inspect the brakes, dumped out the dust and reinstalled the drums. For 8 years I had a 2011 with rear disc brakes that had to be completely disassembled to grind the rust of the slides and lube everything to keep them functional. I also had to remove the rotors and free up the parking brake shoe adjusters, just for chuckles price a set of parking brake shoes.If your state doesn't use road salt that'll help but if you're braking hard enough to get any benefit from rear disc brakes, all the weight is on the front wheels.

 

[sgtsandman]

For what it’s worth, I would rather have drum than disc. Discs = more work when it comes to preventative maintenance and parts need replaced faster. My 2011 has discs and I wish it didn’t. They have cost me more money than they should have at this point. I suspect the 2019 will be the same.

All the crap kicked up by your front wheels is hitting you back ones. So dirt, snow, rain, and road salt and giving those rear rotors a beating. For what little braking performance improvement they give, they aren’t worth it.

I had a 1998 Ranger with rear drums at the time when I bought the 2011. So I was able to compare them side bu side.

 

[4x4junkie]

I guess the Ranger discs are way different, I've not had issues like that with the '99 Explorer axle that's been under my BII since 2004.

Granted there's no road salt around here, however I do regularly venture off road to places like Saline Valley here in the So Cal desert, which (as you can probably guess by the name) has a very high saline content in the soil. After a few deep mud puddles & what not getting in & out of there, the salty soil combining with the water has formed a noticeable rust layer on everything that isn't exactly typical of a So Cal vehicle (though it's still not near as bad as some pics I've seen posted on here).

What I've constantly had issues with is my Ranger's drum brakes getting grabby and locking up prematurely in damp weather. Been through three different sets of shoes, all different brands. Never been able to figure out a remedy, so I have to ride the parking brake for a block or so to warm them up and drive out the moisture.

 

[sgtsandman]

That is possible. As you pointed out, location can make a difference too.

All I know is that I’ve rarely had to do much of anything with drums other than preventative maintenance until the shoes wore out. That takes quite some time to happen. If I remember right, it took about 12 years for the ‘98 and my CR-V to get to that point.

I’ve replaced everything except for the parking shoes on the 2011 already. It think rotors and shoes after four, maybe five years. The year before last I had to throw in calipers too because the bleeders snapped off.

Now for full disclosure, I do live in the rust belt for one. Also, my trucks will be sitting for months while I’m deployed. Nothing I can do about that. Well, the new one, my girlfriend can drive. The other is sitting at the base right now and the guys in the shop are terrible about running vehicles and driving them about to prevent issues. So, it currently is sitting with wheels chocked to prevent the parking brake shoes from sticking and the battery is disconnected.

 

[19Walt93]

You can fix the drum brake grabbing problem by sealing up the backing plates to keep out the moisture, I did it to my 04 during the PDI and it never bothered. Drum brakes stop fine unless you submerge them in water or get them screaming hot. If you live where they don't use road salt you can't have an appreciation of it's effect. I replaced all the brake lines on my Cobra II in August of 1990 and the look like dusty, new brake lines now because I don't drive it in the winter. The rear spring hangers on a Ranger are at least 1/8" thick and they rust away so often that the dealer would keep a couple pairs in stock. Carrying a snow plow causes the salt and dirt to curl up under the truck and rot out the oil pans.

 

[4x4junkie]

How do you seal the backing plates? (the drums obviously still have to rotate around them)

 

[19Walt93]

Seal all the holes in the backing plates that moisture could get in, you don't have to seal the drum to the backing plate. We used to see Rangers with the left rear brakes all rusted up and the right rear looked good, something about the way air swirls around the back of the truck. It's practically free and quick and easy to do.

 

[sgtsandman]

There are a couple openings on the backing plate that aren’t completely sealed. It’s been a while since I had the ‘98 but I’m pretty sure where the parking brake cable goes through is one of them. Just clean up the surface and hit with some brake clearer so that RTV can stick. That will seal up the holes but keep it so you can remove things later when needed. Another might be where the retaining pins for the shoes go through the backing plate.

 

[4x4junkie]

Seal all the holes in the backing plates that moisture could get in, you don't have to seal the drum to the backing plate. We used to see Rangers with the left rear brakes all rusted up and the right rear looked good, something about the way air swirls around the back of the truck. It's practically free and quick and easy to do.

It seems to me the humidity would still easily go right through between the plate and the drum and reach the shoes... Am I missing something? (it's not liquid water that gets in, moist air is what causes it, especially on cool mornings).

 

[19Walt93]

It worked and I got it from a Ford TSB that was released sometime before I bought my 04 Ranger new. Try it, and see if it will work for you. The TSB also listed a revised shoe part number but I didn't buy them, it may be that the 04 was built with the updated shoes. I know the Ford shoes and pads are a little more money but they're all I'll use.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yea the original OE shoes were ones that did it originally on my '94 (they were maybe 10% worn when I changed them out because of this issue... Tried Bendix and Raybestos with little change). This after the dealer was no help, all they'd tell me was "Could not replicate problem" even though I told them keep it overnight and drive it in the morning. So I just dealt with it like above.

Appreciate the info. I'll try giving it a shot.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I know this thread started as a disc brake conversion question that evolved into the dreaded rear brake lock up issues we have all experienced at one point or another. So I'm going to add my 2 cents into the fold here... your results may vary but this has seemed to work well for me over the years.

While I've never seen the TSB for water intrusion I'm sure it exists and has it's merits. So... for sure seal up the backing plates as recommended.

Now for my theory and what I have found helpful. I think the rear brake adjustment is critical on these light in the rear trucks. Even as little as 5 or 6 clicks out of adjustment seems to make a difference in my experience. So for the theory... brake fluid is applied evenly to both the primary and secondary shoes and the shoes travel an equal distance off the anchor pin. Once the primary shoe contacts the drum... the shoes begin to self energize. The primary shoe rotates further from the anchor pin while pushing the secondary shoe against the anchor pin. The brake fluid that held the secondary shoe off the anchor has to be displaced. It can't go back to the master... because we have our foot on the pedal. So it gets displaced onto the primary shoe. If the brakes are to far out of adjustment... the amount of fluid that has to be displaced onto the front shoe causes excessive pressure and the brake locks up. I typically run my adjustment tight and regularly pump my brake pedal while backing out the driveway to keep it as tight as it can go.

I also think the shoe wear groves in the backing plate also play into it. I believe the shoes "hang up" slightly in the grooves and instead of a smooth transaction onto the drum... they sometimes bang onto the drum. I keep my backing plates smooth and lubed for a smooth transition.