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What would be the most likely cause of the clutch pedal suddenly losing resistance?


juntjoo

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There are twists and turns and little nooks and cranny's in mine that just don't seem to be bleed-able short of pulling the complete line out, hanging the entire set-up high enough it doesn't touch the ground, and constantly filling the reservoir while wriggling all the parts and hoses around to allow all the air to escape. Then close it up and install it as one complete unit from the reservoir to the slave attachment, then simply gravity bleeding the slave cylinder.

I'm not sure if yours is the same. Look in the instructions that came with your MC very closely, somewhere in there should be a note to Ford applications about calling their 800 number for information on bleeding the system. If not, maybe they've corrected it, but if you're having problems I'd think it hasn't been addressed, and you should get their info specifically to those models.

They knew about it in 2006 the first time I did mine, but I found out very late in the game. I had begun with parts store parts, and maybe a bit from Ford. Early in my ordeal a Ford parts clerk had run into numbers that he couldn't understand. Later in that project I was again at Ford dealership and being helped by their parts manager. He understood what was going on, but I was too far along at that late date to change courses.

They had a newer system even for my vehicle that addressed the difficult bleeding problems, but it required using only the newer systems parts thru the entire process, they were not interchangeable.
I did mine again maybe 6 months ago, and all the parts I got readily worked on my system, so I suppose if I'd had the newer system, all Ford parts would have been my only option.
The site for the MC manufacturer did not work too well. But I think I found enough vids on YouTube for all ways to bleed this system. I'm guessing I don't have any upgraded system as it looks just like the one one guy in a vid had showing the faulty characteristics being the turns and the MC angle. And he went through bleeding pre and post install.

Anyway, seems I got it. I gravity bled it b4 installing by hand and it seemed to tighten it up, reinstalled it, lost pressure immediately I guess from air in the slave, bled again like I did originally but this time it worked. It's still a bit soft so I'm gonna do it again with my hand vac bleeder. Thanks for your input!
 


pjtoledo

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this is my 2005 2wd.
you can pull the fender liner, remove the MC, invert and bleed it.

a piece of 1/4 brass tubing will open the tangs to allow pushrod removal.

MC in its installed position, the inlet and outlet are at the bottom.
you are not getting the trapped air out until it's inverted.
 

juntjoo

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Is this going to reoccur? I would assume whatever caused this is a malevolent force that will attack again another day. Unless it's possible and common with these systems to catch s an air bubble or two from time to time.
 

juntjoo

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View attachment 33843View attachment 33844View attachment 33845


this is my 2005 2wd.
you can pull the fender liner, remove the MC, invert and bleed it.

a piece of 1/4 brass tubing will open the tangs to allow pushrod removal.

MC in its installed position, the inlet and outlet are at the bottom.
you are not getting the trapped air out until it's inverted.
Thanks. Good tips. I didn't totally invert mind but mostly bled it. Planning on using my vac bleeder next. Should that be able to force out any stuck bubbles you think?
 

juntjoo

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Do unto others...
I think I actually totally bled the MC because before I plugged the line back in the slave the pedal didn't move. So I'll standard bleed again with the hand vac bleeder. Already did it with regular bleeder but maybe just not enough. Maybe it's good. Idk. It feels like it has a lot of free play but maybe I forgot how it felt before. Feels like 2.5 inches of play til it hits pressure. Maybe that's a pedal mechanical adjust. Idk. I'll check that out in the book later. Seems to shift fine though
 

juntjoo

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My credo
Do unto others...
View attachment 33843View attachment 33844View attachment 33845


this is my 2005 2wd.
you can pull the fender liner, remove the MC, invert and bleed it.

a piece of 1/4 brass tubing will open the tangs to allow pushrod removal.

MC in its installed position, the inlet and outlet are at the bottom.
you are not getting the trapped air out until it's inverted.
Did you remove the wheel or just turn it out? For future ref if all you gotta do is turn it out to gain easy access like that, I'm going that route!
 

pjtoledo

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wheel removed. there may be more room on a 4wd than my 2wd. it did take a bit of "persuading" to do this.
 

pjtoledo

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Is this going to reoccur? I would assume whatever caused this is a malevolent force that will attack again another day. Unless it's possible and common with these systems to catch s an air bubble or two from time to time.
as the clutch wears it draws in more fluid from the reservoir. eventually it can get low enough to pull in some air. that happened at about 150,000 miles on my replacement clutch. checking the fluid a few times per year should be ok.
 

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