What have YOU done to increase the tow capacity of your Ranger?

[MADMODDER]

You guys are awesome. Im bug into VWs where we have all kinds of fancy sythetic options from Redline and Liquimoly. So this is a bit of a shock. Lol.

Without boasting too much, spending a bit more coin, on high quality bits and parts, isnt really an issue for me.

Im going to replace both upstream 02 sensors because 1 is bad. Heating element is toast so im just gonna replace both.

Ive dot 3 fluid from other car jobs. Are there any stainless steel braided clutch lines and/or brake lines available?

I dont think its leaking oil. I mean, there is oil on the outside of the block. Around the pan and trans but its not dripping on the floor or nothing.

Engine is 5w30. Do either of you know factory oil specs? Not all 5w30 oils are the same. I use 5w30 luquimoly in one of my VWs. Im sure the Ranger wouldnt like it as much, right?

Whats th better or best ATF fluid for the trans and Tcase? Whats "e-shift"?

Diff takes 75w90 or 80W90. What brand? Sythetic will leak out the axel seals? How and why?

Thanks again fellas.

 

[MADMODDER]

My new to me 2010, 4L, 4x4, manual, Ranger Sport.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have had really good luck with Motorcraft synthetic blend oil. I popped a valve cover off of my 130k 5.4 a few years ago... it was spotless and looked like a new engine inside. I dare say it runs as good as it ever has at 156k right now.

Double check your axle oil, the later ones call for 85w-140. Pretty sure that is what my '96 Explorer 8.8 called for and I know that is what my F-150's 9.75 called for.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Whats th better or best ATF fluid for the trans and Tcase? Whats "e-shift"?

Diff takes 75w90 or 80W90. What brand? Sythetic will leak out the axel seals? How and why?

Thanks again fellas.

Since you have a manual transmission, it really doesn't matter. But if you really insist, Mercon V as Adsm08 suggested. Any brand should do.

E-shift - Electronic shift. The vast majority are like that.

The synthetic oil molecules are smaller, and while do a better job at getting into smaller places, they also tend to escape from smaller places.

 

[MADMODDER]

I have had really good luck with Motorcraft synthetic blend oil. I popped a valve cover off of my 130k 5.4 a few years ago... it was spotless and looked like a new engine inside. I dare say it runs as good as it ever has at 156k right now.

Double check your axle oil, the later ones call for 85w-140. Pretty sure that is what my '96 Explorer 8.8 called for and I know that is what my F-150's 9.75 called for.

The axle has oil? Or do you mean the diff? Where do I find what oil to use?

Since you have a manual transmission, it really doesn't matter. But if you really insist, Mercon V as Adsm08 suggested. Any brand should do.

E-shift - Electronic shift. The vast majority are like that.

The synthetic oil molecules are smaller, and while do a better job at getting into smaller places, they also tend to escape from smaller places.

Im guessing Eshift means automatic.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Im guessing Eshift means automatic.

Thanks for the explanation.

Its not really automatic though. There's a manual shift version that has a proper, old school lever, and the electronic shift version (which is what the vast, vast majority will have) where you have a selector knob by your radio.

 

[MADMODDER]

Do you mean for 4x4? I do have a knob/dial I can turn to go from/to 2H, 4L & 4H.

 

[don4331]

Let's spin the question around; rather than what have you done to increase the capacity of your Ranger to:

What have you done to allow your Ranger to better tow to its capacity.

#1 on that list is add trailer brakes. Ranger's brakes* are marginal to start with, adding 3k lbs of trailer (max with 4.0/manual) does nothing help that. Surge brakes on trailer is better than nothing; best is electric controller but there is cost to consider.

#2 is add sway bar if not already equipped, ideally the 1" one from a BII.

#3 is replace rear shocks. This is tricky because 90% of the "upgraded" shocks are to improve four wheeling and actually "downgrade" trailer towing.

#4 don't use O/D while towing. Transmission isn't designed for high stress in anything but direct drive (4th on manual).

My biggest challenge with my '98 s/c 4x4, is I am running right at front axle GAWR with me and missus in cab**. Which then means I can only use part of the rear GAWR without exceeding GVWR. So, instead of starting with the Ford "book" payload of 1,260lbs, I am down 300lbs, with my options***, then me, passenger, toolbox, full tank of fuel add 500lbs. and suddenly I am at <500lbs payload (and having a WTF moment ).

And 500lb tongue load equates to just 3,200 trailer (assume 15% of weight on tongue), so I can never come near the GCWR (9,500lbs for my truck - originally 4.0 auto/7k lbs for a 4.0/manual).

*Your 2010 Ranger could have the best rear brakes of any Ranger as the vented discs were an option.

**Lift kit, 33s and A/C aren't doing me any favours.

***
Options weights: A/C - 45lbs, 4.0 - 105lbs (150 w/auto), tires over the stock P215/75R15s, 25lbs, ABS - 15lbs, Four doors on S/C - 90lbs, Power window/doors/mirrors - 10lbs, Radio - 10lbs, Class III hitch 40 lbs, 76 litres of fuel - 165 lbs. You can see why they were referred to as 1/4 tons...

 

[MADMODDER]

That is the question I meant to ask. Thanks.

I know trailer brakes help. However, electric brakes total crap. Hydraulic brakes are best, even on a trailer. But, like you said, there is cost to consider. I know not to haul in OD/5th.

I was told I can put a ton in my bed, 1k lbs on the tongue and pull 4k lbs because it has the high compression 4L, its 4x4, manual, has the 4.10 rear end, has 4 wheel disk brakes and 2 pot front calipers. Where can I find out the facts before I go pulling something it cant pull and/or stop?

I was very happy to see it has rear disks. Happy to see it has 2 pot calipers in the front and still happier to see the hubs were studded. Wheels are really light weight too.

Im not going to do 4x4 mods. The mods I have in mind are for longevity, fuel economy and to better tow its capacity. Id also like a nice little exhaust note. I hate that i can hear the tires over the exhaust.

Question on rear brakes, how do I replace them? My parking brakes doesnt work and i dont know if the cable is stretched or if the drum shoes are worn out(maybe both?). I want to get in there and inspect them. I tried 2 weeks ago bit couldnt fet the hub off. I dont know if its just rusted or if i missed something so i didnt wanna try too hard and break anything.

Thanks for your input.

 

[don4331]

Madmodder:

The Maximum GVWR for a Ranger S/C 4x4 was 5280lbs; Base weight of same is 3742 lbs. So, the absolute max is 1,538 lbs. From that remove 500lbs for 4.0, a/c, 4drs, hitch and full tank of gas. Then remove your weight...and the absolute max load you can put in box will be about 850lbs (less if you are as large as me). Depressing isn't it.

The Cat III trailer hitch tops out at 750lbs and the M5OD is limited to 7,000 lbs GCWR (Aside: M5OD has same limit when it was in F-150 - It not a Ranger limit, its a drivetrain limit). For all intent and purposes, you hit GCWR with a 2,500lb trailer. Again real depressing. Ford 2011 docs attached (There wasn't any change between your 2010 and the 2011s)

To access the parking brakes. Remove rear caliper, back off the adjuster (accessed through brake backing plate)and the rotor should pull off. If it doesn't, rotor might be corroded to axle and a BFH might be required. (There are YouTube videos of creative solutions to removing rotors) Swapping the parking brake shoes is PIA as they are practically behind the rear axle flange.

 

[MADMODDER]

Idk what all those acronyms mean. GVWR, M50D, GCWR.

So I can only out about 850lbs in the bed? Geez...

My truck doesnt have a sway bar. That 1" is "BLL", right? Or is it "Bii"? Should I put one on the front and rear or just the rear? What shocks would help with towing? Im not into doin 4x4 things but i do want to maintain the capability as it does snow here bout everyother year. How about an after market rear diff cover. More diff fluid is better. Which cover would you reccomend?

Thanks for the attachments.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Madmodder:

The Maximum GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)for a Ranger S/C (Super Cab) 4x4 was 5280lbs; Base weight of same is 3742 lbs. So, the absolute max is 1,538 lbs. From that remove 500lbs for 4.0, a/c, 4drs, hitch and full tank of gas. Then remove your weight...and the absolute max load you can put in box will be about 850lbs (less if you are as large as me). Depressing isn't it.

The Cat III trailer hitch tops out at 750lbs and the M5OD is limited to 7,000 lbs GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) (Aside: M5OD has same limit when it was in F-150 - It not a Ranger limit, its a drivetrain limit). For all intent and purposes, you hit GCWR with a 2,500lb trailer. Again real depressing. Ford 2011 docs attached (There wasn't any change between your 2010 and the 2011s)

To access the parking brakes. Remove rear caliper, back off the adjuster (accessed through brake backing plate)and the rotor should pull off. If it doesn't, rotor might be corroded to axle and a BFH (Big F$*#&@# Hammer) might be required. (There are YouTube videos of creative solutions to removing rotors) Swapping the parking brake shoes is PIA (Pain In @$$) as they are practically behind the rear axle flange.

FWIW (For What Its Worth) F-150's probably had a bigger clutch than a Ranger too. Ford liked to blame clutch abuse being the cause of lower GVW ratings than automatics.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gross_combined_weight_rating

If the rotor is stuck to the flange strike the rotor between the wheel studs pretty hard with a good sized hammer, work your way around and eventually it will just pop off. Strike a stud and you will screw up the threads, strike the braking surface of the rotor and it will break... so don't miss.

 

[don4331]

Idk what all those acronyms mean. GVWR, M50D Manual 5 speed Over Drive - the standard Ranger manual transmission, GCWR.

So I can only put about 850lbs in the bed? Geez...

My truck doesn't have a sway bar. That 1" is "BII", right? Or is it "Bii"? (BII is Bronco 2 aka Bronco ii) Should I put one on the front and rear or just the rear? What shocks would help with towing? I'm not into doing 4x4 things but i do want to maintain the capability as it does snow here bout every other year. How about an after market rear diff cover. More diff fluid is better. Which cover would you recommend?

Thanks for the attachments.

Note: That 850lbs assumes you are 150lbs - the current SAE standard. If you are heavier/you have passenger(s) reduce the amount accordingly. I much prefer the new SAE standard where cargo capacity is calculated after putting a 150lb individual in every position with seat belt and fuel at 90%. Of course that is part demise of Ranger - removing another 600lbs (for 4 passengers matching all the seat belts in a super cab) left <300lbs for cargo and that would have just been embarrassing for Ford to put in brochure.

Most (?all?) Rangers come with a front sway bar, so you would just be adding rear (Ranger rear is 3/4"). You are looking for a HD (heavy duty) shock.

I've never worried about differential oil - but then I am from Canada and it isn't too hot too often. And don't say the 4 letter 's' word; I'll see enough of it soon enough

85Ranger4x4 - thanks with the acronyms.

I put lug nuts back on the studs, to reduce the risk of damaging thread before I start swinging the hammer. On the farm, we had Snap-On's largest puller, which along with the impact made removing rotors a breeze.

 

[MADMODDER]

I didn't look for a swaybar in the front. I didnt see any sway bar in the rear.

Should I look for a specific brand or just anything HD shocks will do?

I only ask about the rear diff cover because im coming up on its interval. I'll like to put a bigger cover on it with fins because I'm in The South. It gets pretty warm down here.

I have a 10lb sledge that should do it. If not, I'll see about getting a big puller.

Thanks for all the tips on the rear rotors and explanations of the acronyms.

 

[pjtoledo]

I didn't look for a swaybar in the front. I didnt see any sway bar in the rear.

Should I look for a specific brand or just anything HD shocks will do?

I only ask about the rear diff cover because im coming up on its interval. I'll like to put a bigger cover on it with fins because I'm in The South. It gets pretty warm down here.

I have a 10lb sledge that should do it. If not, I'll see about getting a big puller.

Thanks for all the tips on the rear rotors and explanations of the acronyms.

way too much hammer. something the weight of a standard carpenters hammers will do. get a real fast swing on it for best results.