WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR RANGER TODAY?




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Locotomb

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WTF... You responded to 4 posts and the only one you agreed with was me. I’m slipping...
The 2.9L sucks. I feel better now.
See! The 2.9l is awesome. Even Snoranger feels better after typing 2.9l. Probably put a smile on his face too.
 

Locotomb

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6inch custom fab lift/86
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3 inch drop beams/88
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My credo
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While reading this my fist thought was MMO to try and clean it out but since you have heads do it up and let us know how thing work out.
MMO? Not familiar with this unless you are talking about a video game genre. Which I don't think is the case. I started the day off with a tear down of the top end of the 86' 2.9l, took it all the way down to the heads. Unfortunately I still don't have any money, so I decided to check the oil channels and valve lash etc... Well I blew compressed air thru all the channels on the rocker rails and thru the rockers to see if everything was clear. And it was clear and even when I took off the V.Covers, the rockers looked well oiled. But the lifters where really dry for so much oil up top. So Im wondering if I might have a plugged/gummed oil pump screen??? Its drained of oil right now so I should probably drop the pan and check. I would of test the oil pressure but thats one of the few tools I don't have at the moment. Guess I will do that when I get it going, for good measure. Anywho, the valve lash looked to me to be way off. So I'm going to try and set the preload on the hydro tappets. I really would like to convert to solid lifters though. Which I will do If I find a collapsed lifter. So, any advise would be appreciated. Tips on setting lash too. The valve covers are still off and its oiless for tonight.


Edit, I just read the writeup on head replacement in the "How To Tech" section. Good Info.
 
Last edited:

PetroleumJunkie412

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MMO? Not familiar with this unless you are talking about a video game genre. Which I don't think is the case. I started the day off with a tear down of the top end of the 86' 2.9l, took it all the way down to the heads. Unfortunately I still don't have any money, so I decided to check the oil channels and valve lash etc... Well I blew compressed air thru all the channels on the rocker rails and thru the rockers to see if everything was clear. And it was clear and even when I took off the V.Covers, the rockers looked well oiled. But the lifters where really dry for so much oil up top. So Im wondering if I might have a plugged/gummed oil pump screen??? Its drained of oil right now so I should probably drop the pan and check. I would of test the oil pressure but thats one of the few tools I don't have at the moment. Guess I will do that when I get it going, for good measure. Anywho, the valve lash looked to me to be way off. So I'm going to try and set the preload on the hydro tappets. I really would like to convert to solid lifters though. Which I will do If I find a collapsed lifter. So, any advise would be appreciated. Tips on setting lash too. The valve covers are still off and its oiless for tonight.


Edit, I just read the writeup on head replacement in the "How To Tech" section. Good Info.
Make sure to put a flashlight down the lifter bores and take a gander at your cam.

Melling high volume oil pump does wonders. New policy of mine is "replace oil pump" every time I pull an engine.
 

Bgunner

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MMO? Not familiar with this unless you are talking about a video game genre. Which I don't think is the case. I started the day off with a tear down of the top end of the 86' 2.9l, took it all the way down to the heads. Unfortunately I still don't have any money, so I decided to check the oil channels and valve lash etc... Well I blew compressed air thru all the channels on the rocker rails and thru the rockers to see if everything was clear. And it was clear and even when I took off the V.Covers, the rockers looked well oiled. But the lifters where really dry for so much oil up top. So Im wondering if I might have a plugged/gummed oil pump screen??? Its drained of oil right now so I should probably drop the pan and check. I would of test the oil pressure but thats one of the few tools I don't have at the moment. Guess I will do that when I get it going, for good measure. Anywho, the valve lash looked to me to be way off. So I'm going to try and set the preload on the hydro tappets. I really would like to convert to solid lifters though. Which I will do If I find a collapsed lifter. So, any advise would be appreciated. Tips on setting lash too. The valve covers are still off and its oiless for tonight.




Edit, I just read the writeup on head replacement in the "How To Tech" section. Good Info.
MMO: Marvel Mystery Oil. I have used this in the past to quiet hydrolic lifters that have gotten a bit gummed up.

One would think that if the pickup screen is plugged then other parts would be starved of oil and not just the cam and lifters. Just my thoughts on that.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Locotomb

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Vehicle Year
1988, 1986
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
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2.9 V6
Engine Size
351w
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
6inch custom fab lift/86
Total Drop
3 inch drop beams/88
Tire Size
35/12.5/r18
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Fords and Drums
Thanks for the feedback everyone, And I'm Honored to be a recruit of the family. 2.9L Mafia.
 

PacificGreen1998

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3.0l Vulcan v6 with low miles...
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stock since 1998
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🖕🏿

🖕🏿

Honestly, that's fair. Dodge offered V8 options for Dakota... Where the hell was the V8 option for Ranger?



Not being rude, but drive one first.

Mine is dead quiet. Only tick you'll hear in mine are the massive-assed 24lb Saleen injectors puking fuel, and occasionally the tick of a methanol injection pump kicking on whenever the throttle is deeper than 69%. Good oil flow and a clean valvetrain takes care of tick. Other than that, mine sounds like a pissed off swarm of European hornets when it starts climbing above 3000 RPM.

Also, definately NOT a brittle engine.
Angry? Yes.
Fussy? Very.
Deathly allergic to heat? Absolutely.
Designed to be a truck engine? No.

This is true of the 3.0 as well, though. Only difference is the 3.0 was designed to be a family sedan engine. The 2.9 was designed to be an European touring/performance engine.
Don't get me wrong I'd love to experience a 2.9, and your build on your truck was very awsome, but I got a pos 3.0slow so maybe if I go to Texas one day I'll get the chance, apparently there are a lot of unicorns in Texas (unicorns are cars not seen often or are rare, like an early first gen ranger with a 4 banger and 4 wheel drive, that's a unicorn and one exists on Ebay, it was before any 6 cylinder came out) Personally I'd love to see a 5 speed manual 3.0l slow with a cam and supercharger slammed slightly...oh and on the ranger station there was a thread about a ranger that could have been an actual prototype for a V8 ranger in the early 2000s.....
 

85_Ranger4x4

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4cyl 4wds were an option off and on throughout the Ranger’s run.
 

91stranger

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Most of the issues I've seen with a slow 3.0 is due to a stretched out throttle cable. Yes, a truck will be slow if the throttle is only opened 1/2 or 3/4 when the pedal is mashed to the floor, that's obvious. Can't blame a stretched throttle cable on the 3.0. You can test this easily to see if your throttle cable is stretched. Easiest way is to lift up on the gas pedal and see how much slack is there. Shouldn't be any slack. If you have a few inches of slack like I did then you will need to add some zip ties to the end of the throttle cable at the gas pedal. If you have a friend you can remove the intake plenum at the throttle body and see how open it is with the pedal to the floor. Fix this and see how you feel about a 3.0. It was like a whole new truck after I fixed mine.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Most of the issues I've seen with a slow 3.0 is due to a stretched out throttle cable. Yes, a truck will be slow if the throttle is only opened 1/2 or 3/4 when the pedal is mashed to the floor, that's obvious. Can't blame a stretched throttle cable on the 3.0. You can test this easily to see if your throttle cable is stretched. Easiest way is to lift up on the gas pedal and see how much slack is there. Shouldn't be any slack. If you have a few inches of slack like I did then you will need to add some zip ties to the end of the throttle cable at the gas pedal. If you have a friend you can remove the intake plenum at the throttle body and see how open it is with the pedal to the floor. Fix this and see how you feel about a 3.0. It was like a whole new truck after I fixed mine.
3.0s are actually faster then a 2.9 once you get up in the big gears. Yes this is coming from my mouth ill give credit where its due, 60-80mph i dont think a 2.9 could nudge in front of a 3.0. The 3.0 has a pretty high rpm power curve. Do i think the 3.0 would run from a 2.9 at high speed? No. But i dont think a 2.9 could get infront of it either.

But 0-60 is a tottally diffrent story. A healthy 3.0 with a 5 speed might run with a mediocre average 2.9 backed by an auto.

But a healthy 2.9/5speed will leave a 3.0 looking at taillights from a standstill. The numbers are close on both engines but the 2.9 pulls much harder in the lower revvs.
 

ericbphoto

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PacificGreen1998

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2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
stock since 1998
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That one guy with ADHD and doesn't stop talking about cars.
Most of the issues I've seen with a slow 3.0 is due to a stretched out throttle cable. Yes, a truck will be slow if the throttle is only opened 1/2 or 3/4 when the pedal is mashed to the floor, that's obvious. Can't blame a stretched throttle cable on the 3.0. You can test this easily to see if your throttle cable is stretched. Easiest way is to lift up on the gas pedal and see how much slack is there. Shouldn't be any slack. If you have a few inches of slack like I did then you will need to add some zip ties to the end of the throttle cable at the gas pedal. If you have a friend you can remove the intake plenum at the throttle body and see how open it is with the pedal to the floor. Fix this and see how you feel about a 3.0. It was like a whole new truck after I fixed mine.
Think you could post a pic of the zip tie thing, the shift cable bracket is notorious for breaking and that's one thing I fixed with zip ties....but please a pic cuz my pedal has a few inches of slack, just never knew how to fix...
 

91stranger

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I can get a pic tonight when I get home but its real easy. Get a couple of the small 3-4" zip ties and start the zip tie but leave about a 3/4" loop. Get on your knees and grab the gas pedal and lift it up to get rid of the slack. At this time you can now see the slack in the cable. Start adding zip ties to get rid of the slack. I think mine has 3-4 of the small thin zip ties. Once you have got all the slack out then your throttle should be MUCH more responsive. Here are some pics I found online. There are some videos on this as well. Takes about 2 minutes if that and your truck will feel like it got new plugs, wires, high octane gas and a lead foot. Just make sure they are tight.
 

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