- Jun 28, 2009
- Reaction score
To be quite frank that's one of the biggest annoyances of my truck that don't have time to find a exploder seat back or a ranger seat back and the one on my truck is broken and been broken for a while plus the cushion on the seat bottom closest to the seat back is worn pretty bad......though I found a crazy good 95 ranger single cab with only 66k but it's the 2.3 mated to a automatic....price dropped.... and those 2.3 can be built for power just like they do in dirt track cars.....my rambling about this 95 is that it has a bench seat like a old 70's truck with no indents for your ass like some of the other base model rangers....but yeah......my seats drive me nuts.....hell the rear jump seats are more comfortable than my driver or passenger seats in my truck......thanks for the reply though....My original 93 seats were comfortable to me. The cover was tearing on the driver seat and had been sewn back several times. So I replaced with 2001 explorer seats. They’re pretty comfortable, also. Though I can tell that the foam is deteriorating at the side where the driver gets in and out. I definitely don’t feel any metal bars on my butt.
I was just teasing. Seats are a very touchy subject. Everyone has a different idea of what comfortable or even “acceptable “ is. If you can’t get comfy. You won’t enjoy the vehicle.
Did you know something that the other travelers didn't?I left it in the driveway, took the train Downtown, and watched all the traffic backed up on US-50 as the train ran alongside the freeway.
My F-150 wouldn't look too bad but gravel dust/dirt get caught in pockets and hold moisture.My guy uses krown, but same thing as fluid film so yes. It lasts one season. So I do it every fall, cost me 150. I use to do it myself but it cost almost 100 anyway so waaaaay easier to pay the shop to do it. Truck is now 10 years old and the body and underside have ZERO rust living in the northeast. That's well worth it on my opinion.
I wonder how that compares to the cavity wax we apply to BMW's here at the factory. It's a soft waxy mess. On hot sunny days, it drops out. But the insides of all the hidden cavities are coated with it right from the start, just after we paint them.The oil stuff isn't rubber under coating, its waxy oil film. They drill holes and basically inject it into all the body panels, spray down everything. It's a mess.... but rocks, chips, no issue. Nothing can "get under it" or "chip it" because it's not paint or rubber, it's just goo. Which is why it's done every year.
Best $150 winterizing you can spend.
I watched some drill the door on a brand new car and spray that stuff inside... I should have been nice and told him to roll the window up first. I wasn't nice.My guy uses krown, but its same thing as fluid film (oily waxy coating). It lasts one season. So I do it every fall, cost me 150. I use to do it myself but it cost almost 100 anyway so waaaaay easier to pay the shop to do it. Truck is now 10 years old and the body and underside have ZERO rust living in the northeast. That's well worth it on my opinion.
They drill holes and add plugs and spray inside EVERYTHING. how they do it for $150 is a mystery to me but until they raise the price I schedule every October.