Tie Rods: Looking for advice

[RangerJoey]

Hi All,

With the weather finally warming, I'm looking to jump back into my truck and was going to overhaul a lot of the front components, (mostly suspension stuff). But I was also going to replace both the inner and outer tie rods as well. I've seen some videos and it doesn't look too bad, but does anyone have any advice for someone that's never done this before? I was going to go with MOOG as the replacements, but I'm not sure what type of special tool I need for these? I've seen a lot that comes with different crows feet, but I don't know what size the Ranger is. And is there any part that I need to worry about greasing or anything?

I plan on getting an alignment after all front work is done so being super accurate isn't as much as a concern, (I know I have to count the outer tie rod). I just want to be sure I don't blatantly miss something while I have everything apart. TIA!

 

[sgtsandman]

Why are you looking to change the inner tie rods? Is something wrong with them or for preventative maintenance? Moog is a good choice for the outer tie rods. I believe they come with grease fittings, which is nice. If they don't, make sure you put some grease in the boots before you install since companies often only use enough to make the item and get the piece to last a few years. If it comes with a grease fitting, grease them up after install until grease comes out the boot or they start to swell. Don't over do it or you could burst a boot.

For tools, I have a Harbor Freight Front End Service kit that has served me well for years. With those and a good socket set with a torque wrench, you should be good. At least for the outer tie rods. I've never had inner ones go bad, even though I do have the kit to change them if they ever do (Harbor Freight as well).

As far as swapping new with old. Mark the threads with a marker or paint pen, after breaking the jam nut loose, where the tie rod end is sitting on the threads. If the old jam nut is still usable, then you can just install the new jam nut to your paint mark and tighten the jam nut. That will get you close and buy you some time until you can get an alignment. As far as the end that goes into the knuckle, it is best if you use the torque spec to make sure it is properly seated. Use the low end of the torque and keep bumping up the torque until the castellated part of the nut lines up with the hole in the shank so you can install the cotter pin. Other than the alignment, that's pretty much it.

 

[RangerJoey]

Thanks Sgt! And yeah, to answer your question, I'm trying to do some preventative stuff. This new-to-me is a 99 with about 125k. Everything is basically original and never serviced. I'm trying to get a "fresh start" on a lot of components and figured if I was going to worry about the tie rods, I mind as well do both the inner and outer.

As far as the inner rods, I think it's just some blue loctite when reinstalling them. But I was also probably going to grab some new boots too. Do I have to lube them with anything or just toss them on? And for the outer guys - and I realize I'm about to show how green i am here - when you say grease them, is there a specific type of grease I should be looking for? I've seen videos showing folks putting anti-seize basically everywhere on the threads of the rods and such but not sure about that.

Oh, and one thing I can't find any info on: In the MOOG instructions, (step 7), "holding the rack from rotating with a wrench on the rack teeth". What?!

 

[adsm08]

First thing to remember, there is a jam nut that holds the outer tie rod still once everything is aligned. Break that nut loose BEFORE you take the outer tie rod out of the knuckle. This will make your life easier. It's something I know to do, but I get into rip 'n tear mode and forget nearly every time. Also count the number of turns your old outers take to come off and put the new ones back on the same number of turns. It will still need aligned, but it will be close enough to drive it down to the alignment shop.

Anti-seize on the threads is good.

The inners and the boots will come with grease packets. Put the grease on the socket joint of the inner and inside the boot.

You will want a hammer to unseat the outer tie rods. Smack the ear they go into after the nut has been removed.

Don't bother with the big metal clamp they give you to secure the inner end of the boot to the rack. Use a zip tie. There is a special tool for that clamp and it won't fit in there, the clamp really only be installed if you have removed the rack. Also don't worry about the wrench on the teeth, the steering lock will hold things still. Those instructions were written assuming the rack has been removed from the vehicle.

Get the inner tie rod tool from your local parts store's loaner program. There are multiple crows feet adapters, you just use the one that fits. Test fit them and find the one that is closest. New and old may use different sizes so pay attention to that.

Grease isn't anything special. I have a tube of Valvoline Moly wheel bearing grease in my gun right now, and a tube of Lucas Red 'n Tacky on deck to replaced it when it runs out.

 

[RangerJoey]

Thank you! I've heard conflicting things about trying to reuse that metal clamp on the boot, but unlike my Explorer, I can't see how you can even get the clearance on the Ranger. And seriously, i have about 100 zip ties in my to-go tool box at any given point, (seriously!), so I'd have to problem inspecting and keeping up on that.

As far as the anti-seize, is that ideal compared to the loctite? I'd have no issue inspecting/adjusting a lot of the stuff, but I just want to have piece of mind on the inner tie rod.

Thanks again!

 

[ericbphoto]

Anti-sieze and Loctite are totally different. Anti-sieze is for things that you don't want stuck together due to corrosion. Loctite is for keeping threaded things from loosening. Red is stronger than blue. Blue is generally considered "removable" but red can be removed also with enough force or maybe some heat to soften it. I used anti-sieze on my tie rod ends since they live down there where there's lots of water, mud, dirt, etc. I rely on the locknut to keep things in position. The castle nuts don't need Loctite because they have the cotter pins to prevent them from backing off. A bit of anti-sieze on those threads could be good, too. The grease is for the ball joints in the tie rod ends. They are the parts that wear out and give dangerous play in the steering system. So having grease fittings there and keeping them greased is important. I use the red&tacky stuff a lot. I like it.

 

[RangerJoey]

Thanks Eric! And that's precisely what I was wondering: what is better for the inner tie rod ends. I've used the red loctite on basically the entire rear suspension and was going to throw the blue stuff on the front non-brake hardware. But that does make sense about all the "stuff" that'll be playing with the tie rods.

And that's now a +2 for the Red 'n Tacky stuff. Going to get that based on you and Adam. Stupid question - and this is more longterm - but after the initial greasing, how do you know when you have enough grease? Mileage won't be a thing for this truck so I'd probably do an annual checkup, but is there a good tell for when they need grease or are these types of fittings that type that allow overflow to ooze out when full?

 

[ericbphoto]

The rubber cups will allow extra to ooze out. If low mileage accumulation, I would recommend annually or semi-annually plus after you clean up from an outing where things get submerged in water or loaded up with mud. The fresh grease will help purge water and dirt from the joints. Others may have better advice on that.