swapping rear windows in a '99 ranger


Milhoss

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Difficulty: ~2 out of 10

Time: ~1.5 hrs plus a few hours to let the glue cure a bit

Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

I had a sliding rear window from a donor pickup and a solid in mine, so logically I swapped them and shot a few photos while doing it.

The procedure is pretty easy, just be VERY careful with the glue as it will destroy any fabrics it comes in contact with.

Equipment required:

razor knife
methyl ethyl ketone (M.E.K.) or acetone or some other knarly cleaner
phillips head screwdriver
9mm wrench
caulking gun
windshield adhesive
Copenhagen
1 beer

My first step was to clean the 'new' window with the M.E.K.. If your window is new, you'll still want to wipe the contact edge with the cleaner prior to gluing it in. If it doesn't seal, you'll have to pull the whole thing out and redo it, so do a good job...



Remove the 8 nuts on the inside of the cab securing the old window in place with the 9mm wrench. I tore the plastic out of the donor rig to get at 'em, but busted the little plastic clips and scratched the plastic 'till I realized I could get at them by just pulling the plastic out a bit. You will prob. have to remove the little coat hanger though



Now carefully push the glass out, working your way around the window.




Once the window is out, you'll wind up with a mess like this. Just pull it off and do a good job cleaning the area with the M.E.K.. I can't tell you if this stuff will damage paint, so keep that in mind. Didn't seem to hurt mine any.



Cut a 'V' in the tip of the glue to leave a nice tall bead for the window to seal against.



Keeping a rag with the cleaner at hand, apply a continuous bead of glue all the way around the opening. If the bead has any gaps or isn't tall enough, the window will prob leak. On the other hand, if it's too tall it'll squish too much and get all over everything. Also, this glue is quite stiff, so if you don't have strong hands get someone who does or find a battery operated caulking gun.



Now carefully set the new window in place and replace the nuts. I found after every nut I tightened (don't have to tighten too much), I had to wipe glue off the wrench, so keep that in mind. Also, make sure to constantly check your hands and tools for glue throughout the process so as to avoid inadvertently getting it all over your clothes and every thing else.
Once done, I let my pickup sit for a few hours to give the glue some time to set.



Stand back and admire your new beer window!
 
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Milhoss

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Apparently I stink at inserting photos, so right click on the broken images and open 'em in a new tab...
 

Sasquatch_Ryda

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The rear windows aren't urethaned in, you're supposed to use butyl tape. You can get it from the dealership or any autobody supply.
 

dasfinc

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The rear windows aren't urethaned in, you're supposed to use butyl tape. You can get it from the dealership or any autobody supply.
I was just about to comment on this, Butyl tape is key.

I just paid a glass company to replace mine 2 weeks ago, Only $100 for the glass (Take-Off one piece), and on-site labor... Junkyards all wanted $50 for the glass, Tape woulda been $10-20, Plus the time to tear out my interior etc....

he knocked it out in just under an hour.

2 other 'notes', when applying the butyl tape (again, you shouldn't use urethane here), apply it to the glass trim, not to the truck. lastly, Be aware that the rear glass is bigger on 98+ trucks then 97- trucks, kinda hard to notice honestly.
 
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Milhoss

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The rear windows aren't urethaned in, you're supposed to use butyl tape. You can get it from the dealership or any autobody supply
Sh!tty... when I pulled the slider out of the donor it was glued, so followed suit.
 

Sasquatch_Ryda

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The black gooey stuff in the picture of you removing your solid rear window is what butyl tape looks like. If it was urethane...you wouldn't be removing is that easy....it would need to be cut out.
 

Milhoss

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You are correct, however the slider I removed from the donor was glued in. window is doing fine, so I don't think it really matters.
 

Elmo

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You are correct, however the slider I removed from the donor was glued in. window is doing fine, so I don't think it really matters.
You will know why it matters when the glass gets broken and you have to cut the glue with all the bolts through it. I had a auto glass shop and have seen many glued in. I charged extra for that. The industry standard is butyl roll 3/8" diameter.
 

work2do

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2010 back window notes

Own a former fleet truck. Base 2010, Extended cab, 4 cyl auto (prefer standard trans, health happens). Has ABS/TC crap standard. Have FM radio and A/C lol.

Wanted a sliding back window for my dog. Scouring the salvage yards What i found out is standard cabs from about '97 on to present are installed by gasket...ONLY extended cabs have have the six nuts/screws. My 2010 fixed glass has 2 extra along the top. No problem installing 1997 + (?) rear slider in a newer model. Going from a newer model to older may present an issue...
 
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To each his own.
My 2002 Edge SuperCab has a rubber gasket all around. Will it need to be replaced, or just take out the bolts, remove the old slider, install the new slider ? I can't open the photos. Thanks.
 

cbxer55

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I want to put a slider in my 98. My 04 Lightning has one, and I always have it open. I'm not doing it myself though, there is a glass palce a mile from me that has reasonable prices. I'll have them do it. Truck needs a new windshield anyway, and new tint on the sides.
 


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