SenorNoob's '88 Ext Cab "Build"


SenorNoob

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Unfortunately I already have several more parts in the mail right now. (Already a part of that price.) Also, I wanna stay with Ranger wheels. At least for now. It does sound nice though.

Please tell me you aren't actually scraping it. Find somebody close by or part it out on here at least. Also, if you part it out here, please PM me about it first. That sounds like some fun parts to put back..
 


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SenorNoob

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YAY! Fastenal order arrived.

Front Lift Washers





Also, old ball joint out..



And new ones in..



They both look suspiciously close to where the axle-shaft/u-joint runs right there. Anybody have experience and can say those will clear?

BTW, I'll never do ball joints with a hammer again. It usually take 2 days to do one. I had them all done in 2 hours with the rental press from O'Reilly's (and a vice). Gotta have the 4x4 cup set too.. Even though it says on the package "for Dana 44 axles". LOL.
 
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merch

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the shaft itsself is alot smaller than that hole,itll clear just fine
 

SenorNoob

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I got some more stuff done. I think I'm pretty much ready for the D35 to go in. Gonna request off for the weekend of the 9th and 10th to get it in.

Knuckles on:



Axle-shaft seals in and drain hole drilled:







Brake shields modded and painted:



I hope I can get these to fit right. They're from a 2nd gen Explorer.

Calipers Painted:



And brackets:



Very bad paint job cause the can stopped up....:annoyed:

Couple of shaft upgrades:





I can confirm the Echo spring fits but is a PITA! to install. Even with four hands.

Oh, and poly bushings.



Those things are easy to install. I almost pushed them in with just my thumb. As for getting the old rubber out, a drill was the best way to go for me. With a little fire and and wire wheel to clean up after. That rubber wouldn't melt for ****. It burnt like wood. BTW, HF has a cheap wire wheel set for a drill with one that is perfect to clean out inside that hole. Pretty sure it's the smallest one in this set.
 

merch

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Oreilys had a fit trying to locate those d35 axle seals when I did mine.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 

Divh

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ya i had trouble getting mine also ended up getting them all off rockauto + they had crush sleeves and pinion nut
 

SenorNoob

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Divh

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i took part numbers to autozone and they said they could not even get them in haha
 

SenorNoob

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That's funny. Cause here they are on Autozone's website.

Right and Left

Sounds like you found another bad parts counter person. That's getting to be a serious problem.
 

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yes it is haha
 

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D35 is in!!

Dad and I got the D35 in in the time allotted. Barely, and only cause I got started Friday evening.

A couple of notes that I don't have pictures for:

1) You can use the factory style slip on spindle seal/slinger/whatever you call it. BUT, you have to use the factory style seal in the spindle itself too. If you don't (what I tried to do) you can't get the c-clips on the outer axle.

2) The passenger side axle has to go in in two pieces. (IDK why I thought it would just slip all of the way through from the outside.) With the c-clip eliminator mod spring in place it's VERY difficult to get it lined up AND to put the spindle back on. I ended up using a couple small bolts through 2 of the stud holes to pull the spindle back far enough to start the studs back in.

Now for some pictures!:D

Open space.



D35 4.0 (Explorer) springs vs D28 2.9 springs.

Notice the height difference?



However the Explorer spring is slightly heavier:





I have no idea what that translates to in spring rate.

My coil spacer setup.

1" high.



1.5" high. Not enough thread to put the nut all of the way one.



2" high. Not enough of a hole to use a coupling nut. I wonder if one of the factory made stud extenders would work here?



Straight off the jack.





Checking alignment after driving it a couple times up the road. (I really don't trust that gauge though. It reads perfectly level in the house when a marble makes a mad dash for the corner of the kitchen.)

On the bumper for correction factor.



Passenger side:



Looks like 3* from center.



Seems to be dead on center.

All of this was done with the adjustable bushings set a 0*.

Showing the extra width. IDK how much of that is from the camber though. It would have been completely inside the fender before.



And (almost) final ride height. There is like a 1/4 in difference in height of the tires I'm running until I can get aligned.



IDK why but my spindle nut socket was a %!!@# to get on the nuts. I ended up filing the socket and the nuts slightly to make it work. It worked fine with the D28 nuts when i put them on last year.

Also those little locking washers are evil. You have to set the preload very carefully with them already pushed tight to the torque side or they shift and mess it up when the outer nut gets torqued down.

In the end, I need an alignment and a new front driveshaft 'cause the one the junkyard sold me was the same length as the one I had. :annoyed:

Hopefully I don't end up having to have fender flares to be legal around here. Or at least if I do I can use something out of the junkyard. I noticed the ones on the rear of 80's j**ps (cherokee and wrangler) have very similar dimensions.:icon_idea: I wonder if they could be heated a little and bent to work? Anybody tried it? I don't want super wide fender flares if I do have to get them.

This pictures shows how much different the front is compared to the back now. (It was level) Anybody have any ideas on how to gain that much back there and get rid of the stock blocks? I know I should get some form the Explorer springs there. Just because the ones I have are flat. I'm thinking lowering the spring mounts relative to the frame is the only way to do it and keep a reasonable spring rate. Would it work better if I built a custom spring pack with an integrated long block using several overload leaves? Is that even possible?
 

SenorNoob

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Well, got the front driveshaft today and got it in. It's quite a bit shorter. Probably 2 inches.

I fought traffic in this little town for 2 hours to go 2 miles to an alignment shop that wasn't too busy today only to find this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mY7hCfvrdqk&feature=youtu.be

What's really driving me nuts is that it looks like the shaft of the ball joint is moving pretty significantly inside the alignment bushing.

What do you guys think?

Will I be good with just better ball joints or is something more wrong? I don't want to buy more new ones and have the same problem in another week.
 
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SenorNoob

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The ball joints weren't even bad. The pinch bolts weren't tight enough. (See just tighter than falling out.)

I knew it had some serious roll into the corners.:icon_twisted: Cause the wheels fell to one side when the g forces hit. I guess I'm just lucky something didn't come apart on the road.

Also the wheel bearings were super loose. I can usually get them right by feel, but with these new timkens I had to bust out the torque wrench. 20 in-lbs seems awfully tight.

On another note: I'm already moving toward stage 2 of this truck. Maybe I'll have it ready in five years or so....

BTW, moving the rear spring mounts down on the frame would be awesome if you wanted 8-10 in. of lift. Not so much for 4.5 Can I build a bastard leaf pack that'll get that over my current FLAT springs? I need to go 2.5 inches higher to match the front and REALLY want to get rid of the factory lift blocks. I wonder if the Explorer springs would sit about 3" higher than current? Then just throw some shackles on it for the last 1.5"
 
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adsm08

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Dude, I love your truck.
 

SenorNoob

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Dude, I love your truck.
Thanks man. It's not very different from yours. I just wish I had it all together. The transmission and rear axle are still laying in the yard.

I dread the thought of working on it just because no matter how small I always end up with some kind of injury. Just figuring out that those bolts were loose resulted in: dropping a concrete block on my toes, blistering and popping the blister all at once on the inside of my left thumb, and shaving a little skin off the knuckle beside it.
 


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