Rod knock

[fastpakr]

No kidding. Gets called out for spreading bad information and has to resort to political name calling.

 

[Bgunner]

20/50 can be used year round in warmer climates But here in the north it will cause issues. I spun a low end bearing when the weather got cold using 20w50 in one of my trucks.

IF the motor is knocking then there is the first thing to fix then add a oil gauge while swapping/rebuilding the motor. I would think running lines and changing sensors would be easier then than when it is all together. Personally I have only run Sunpro gauges, but this is just my choice and what is easy to get my hands on quickly.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I run 10w30 in everything under 120,000miles.

10w40 in everything over 120,000 miles.

Regardless of what it calls for. Dino oil at that. Except for what i run motorcraft in cause motorcraft dino oil isnt available anymore.

20w50 though? Thats pretty thick.

 

[adsm08]

20/50 can be used year round in warmer climates But here in the north it will cause issues. I spun a low end bearing when the weather got cold using 20w50 in one of my trucks.

IF the motor is knocking then there is the first thing to fix then add a oil gauge while swapping/rebuilding the motor. I would think running lines and changing sensors would be easier then than when it is all together. Personally I have only run Sunpro gauges, but this is just my choice and what is easy to get my hands on quickly.

I had a customer at my last dealership who had an 04-ish F250, 5.4L, had about 50K on the clock. He had the oil changed down in Virginia while visiting his son, the Jiffy-Goobs put 20W50 in it, and by the time he got back to PA it was making a squeal on start up, that we eventually were able to track back to a spun bearing.

It took us about a week to find it and many rounds of back and forth with Ford's technical hotline, because it did it for a few seconds on start up and then had to sit off for two hours before it would do it again. When we finally found the spun bearing and reported it back to Ford they blamed the high viscosity oil right away. The fact that it happened shortly after the oil was changed, on an engine that isn't known for spinning mains tells me something.

Also, all this happened in the middle of summer 2013. The oil change happened around July 4th, and the truck made its way to us about two week later.

 

[Dirtman]

Using reasonable arguments with a man who openly claims oil below 20w50 is a conspiracy perpetrated by the government is probably a lost cause... Just saying.

 

[cbxer55]

Yeah, well my stock oil cap busted years ago. So my recollection may be off. Still, I see no problem running 20W-50 in a 5W-30 motor. Like I said, year round for 19 years and 151,000 miles. Still running sweet. No codes, all monitors READY. The only downside I could see, maybe, is slightly lower fuel mileage. That's the reason they made the switch to the colored water in the first place, to improve their CAFE mileage on their entire fleet. It has to be a certain number, or they get penalized. I could care less about that crap. Once the vehicles mine, I run the oil I want.

I'm gradually weaning my Lightning off colored water. Next oil change it's getting 10W-30 instead of 5W-20. There's a lot of guys on LightningRodder that already do that. Even some already running 10W-40 for years without problems. I'll be joining them soon. Got a new supercharger to put on, all the supporting mods necessary to go with it. Before it's back to running again, it will have heavier oil in it.

 

[cbxer55]

I could care less what oil anybody runs in their vehicles. I was just saying that since the OP said he added one quart of 20W-50 to his colored water oil, it wouldn't hut anything. Since a full crankcase of the stuff year round for 19 years hasn't hurt mine in the least. We got down to some negative temperatures this winter, and I heard nothing scary on start ups. Never have. Been driving since 76, been using 20W-50 since 76. Always have, always will. I guess my Lightning will remain the exception, but if it does well on 10W-40 as some others have, I'll be good with that.

My last post on the subject. Have a nice day.

 

[8thTon]

Only Kendall Nitro 70 or you're a wuss.

 

[cbxer55]

Only Kendall Nitro 70 or you're a wuss.

Yeah, well I can remember the years I worked at Chief Auto Parts (anyone remember them?, LOL) guys used to come in all the time and buy cases and cases of Valvoline straight 50 weight for their vehicles. It was one of our biggest sellers. It was positioned in the oil row front and center. 20W-50 was next, used to sell cases and cases of Castrol 20W-50, especially when we had a sale. Couldn't keep it in the store, always out. Castrol 10W-40 was the third most popular. Most of you guys here are probably too young to have even known those days. Yeah, I'm 58 and hard headed. I do what I do, and mostly don't listen to you young whipper-snappers. You do what you like to do and it's all good though.

Got to go to work now, in the 161,000+ miles 20W-50 Ranger. When I bought it, it had 10,000 on it.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I had a customer at my last dealership who had an 04-ish F250, 5.4L, had about 50K on the clock. He had the oil changed down in Virginia while visiting his son, the Jiffy-Goobs put 20W50 in it, and by the time he got back to PA it was making a squeal on start up, that we eventually were able to track back to a spun bearing.

It took us about a week to find it and many rounds of back and forth with Ford's technical hotline, because it did it for a few seconds on start up and then had to sit off for two hours before it would do it again. When we finally found the spun bearing and reported it back to Ford they blamed the high viscosity oil right away. The fact that it happened shortly after the oil was changed, on an engine that isn't known for spinning mains tells me something.

Also, all this happened in the middle of summer 2013. The oil change happened around July 4th, and the truck made its way to us about two week later.

I often wonder if thats why my 460 got all screwed up.

The last oil change it had before it started knocking was at midas, usually i do it myself but ive had other shit done there and i had alot of other stuff going on, so screw it.

About 2000 miles into that change is when the gauge started doing funny stuff, but its a factory gauge and didnt really pay it no mind.

Then i heard it knocking.

They used a "tec-selct" filter, model #T1. Which, despite being pretty small next to the FL1A motorcraft we all know and love is what it said it needed.

I still, to this day think that filter starved it for oil. The gauge would drop to L whenever i got on it hard.

 

[8thTon]

Yeah, well I can remember the years I worked at Chief Auto Parts (anyone remember them?, LOL) guys used to come in all the time and buy cases and cases of Valvoline straight 50 weight for their vehicles. It was one of our biggest sellers. It was positioned in the oil row front and center. 20W-50 was next, used to sell cases and cases of Castrol 20W-50, especially when we had a sale. Couldn't keep it in the store, always out. Castrol 10W-40 was the third most popular. Most of you guys here are probably too young to have even known those days. Yeah, I'm 58 and hard headed. I do what I do, and mostly don't listen to you young whipper-snappers. You do what you like to do and it's all good though.

Got to go to work now, in the 161,000+ miles 20W-50 Ranger. When I bought it, it had 10,000 on it.

The couple of bottles of Nitro 70 I have in the barn I bought new when it was actual Kendall oil. I saved it for assembly oil. You have about 3 years on me - I doubt that qualifies me as a whipper-snapper.

I could care less what oil you use or what happens to your engines. The appropriate oil to use is based on what oil the engine was designed for and what clearances it was designed with. I ran plenty of 20W-50 in engines back in the day, but those were not these engines so what possible relevance could that have? People once used castor oil too.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The couple of bottles of Nitro 70 I have in the barn I bought new when it was actual Kendall oil. I saved it for assembly oil. You have about 3 years on me - I doubt that qualifies me as a whipper-snapper.

I could care less what oil you use or what happens to your engines. The appropriate oil to use is based on what oil the engine was designed for and what clearances it was designed with. I ran plenty of 20W-50 in engines back in the day, but those were not these engines so what possible relevance could that have? People once used castor oil too.

While i agree with that to a point...

Id dump 80-90 in something if i thought id get a few more miles out of it.

 

[8thTon]

While i agree with that to a point...

Id dump 80-90 in something if i thought id get a few more miles out of it.

Sure, if you're just trying to see how much more you can get out of something that's failing before it dies.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Sure, if you're just trying to see how much more you can get out of something that's failing before it dies.

I kinda figure if its screwed anyways you might as well drain every last bit out of whatever it might be

 

[Dirtman]

I use strictly whale oil in my transmission.