Oh, LOOK! Not ANOTHER V8 build thread!!!

[Thed]

I forgot to ask... Will I need a new oil pan? All of the info surrounding oil pans is kind of fuzzy.

 

[RangerSVT]

No, the ex oil pan fits both TTB and sala suspension rangers. You will need an oil filter relocation kit with the 90* block adapter...

SVT

 

[Thed]

No, the ex oil pan fits both TTB and sala suspension rangers. You will need an oil filter relocation kit with the 90* block adapter...

SVT

Thanks again, man.

I already knew about the oil filter relocation kit, though. Jegs has a kit for a 302 swap in a Ranger and I dismissed it when I saw that the oil re-locator stuck straight out of the block instead of the 90* bend. Not good.

Also, L&L makes an engine mount kit for $175. Looks like it is of pretty good quality. I would consider ketting this...

 

[Thed]

Looking at it more, though, it looks like it uses V6 mounts as a base and then the adapter goes on top... lurrdddd things can get tricky.

 

[RangerSVT]

Don't waste your money on that. Use your factory 4.0 rubber mount and just fab a plate to bolt to the block. If your not up to it, I can fab you a pair. This also allows you to get over the counter parts if you need a motor mount, unlike the custom mounts everybody else has...

SVT

 

[Thed]

Don't waste your money on that. Use your factory 4.0 rubber mount and just fab a plate to bolt to the block. If your not up to it, I can fab you a pair. This also allows you to get over the counter parts if you need a motor mount, unlike the custom mounts everybody else has...

SVT

Two things about that... I got a 4 banger, not a 4 liter. But I just looked it up on Rock Auto, $13 each. So no prob there. Also, do the custom ones that you make sit lower than ones if I were to buy one from say AA?

And two, how much do you charge?

 

[RangerSVT]

The way I make em is about as low as it will sit. The block bosses that the mounts bolt to sits 1/4" higher than the top of the rubber 4.0 mounts on the passenger side, the driver side sits about 1.5" above mount (to level the motor). I can fab the plates for you for about $25 a pair (basically covers materials ) plus shipping...

SVT

 

[Thed]

The way I make em is about as low as it will sit. The block bosses that the mounts bolt to sits 1/4" higher than the top of the rubber 4.0 mounts on the passenger side, the driver side sits about 1.5" above mount (to level the motor). I can fab the plates for you for about $25 a pair (basically covers materials ) plus shipping...

SVT

Best deal on the internet man, PM me and I'll PayPal you.

 

[Thed]

Also, radiators. I read somewhere a radiator out of a first gen 4.0 Explorer will bolt right in but I highly doubt that it has the cooling capacity for a 400 HP engine...

I don't really want to shell out $600 for a radiator when the damn engine cost $400

I'm going to learn welding by the end of the year so any suggestions will be helpful.

 

[RangerSVT]

I'm running my stock 4.0 rad in my 96 ranger, and the stock 5.0 rad in my Trac. I don't have cooling issues with either. Just make sure when you do yours, that you cover enough of the rad or make a shroud...

SVT

 

[Thed]

Huh, then I guess I'm going to be hittin' up LKQ again. I'm thinking of doing a cold air intake with a ram-air hose going up to the filter from down low, so that should keep intake temperatures down.

 

[Thed]

Update

The T-5 idea is looking like a bad one. I'm just going to play it safe and stick with the M5OD-R2. Nobody wants to ship this bitch though.

 

[hopster]

i'm gonna do a 5.0/m5od in mine soon. while lookin for one try to get one from 04 heritage or older to avoid other issues. i believe the best ones were 97-04 heritage v-6 f150. i planned on using cluth components from a 96 f150.

 

[Thed]

Looky here.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261086486568#ht_500wt_922

M5OD-R2 with 122k miles......... I bought it for $325

 

[hopster]

sweet how long til it gets there