New Member, with Cool Old Ride...


adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey
Supporting Member
Ford Technician
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
32,467
Reaction score
1,784
Points
113
Location
Dillsburg PA
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31X10.50X15
It is unlikely that the distributor is causing the problem. These aren't like vacuum advance units where they can sort of work. The electronic distributors in the 2.9, in my extensive experience, either work or they don't. There is rarely any middle ground.

I don't much like the numbers on that SPOUT line. Have you load tested the circuit, or is that 6-7V an open circuit voltage?
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: CFB3B5F7F32B37 Expires: March 30, 2020

rusty ol ranger

2.9L Mafia-Don
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
5,200
Reaction score
1,134
Points
113
Location
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
It is unlikely that the distributor is causing the problem. These aren't like vacuum advance units where they can sort of work. The electronic distributors in the 2.9, in my extensive experience, either work or they don't. There is rarely any middle ground.

I don't much like the numbers on that SPOUT line. Have you load tested the circuit, or is that 6-7V an open circuit voltage?
I always read SPOUT voltage should be half of running alternator voltage....

Not arguing but just what i read. So 6-7V should be in ballpark.

Im seriously betting on a TFI or ECM.

Have you pulled codes?
 

Bits4Bytes

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Location
Pacific NorthWest
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Welcome. Nice Bronco II!
Thanks.. needs some work, but I have high "hopes"
I'll give you tree fiddy for it....






2.8 or 2.9?

If 2.9:
Watch timing through rpm range with a light. See if it moves. If not, either tfi, bad wire, or capacitor on ecm border took a sh*t. Did you replace hall sensor when you put the distributor in?

Nice B2!
 
Last edited:

Bits4Bytes

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Location
Pacific NorthWest
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
It is unlikely that the distributor is causing the problem. These aren't like vacuum advance units where they can sort of work. The electronic distributors in the 2.9, in my extensive experience, either work or they don't. There is rarely any middle ground.

I don't much like the numbers on that SPOUT line. Have you load tested the circuit, or is that 6-7V an open circuit voltage?
The gas mileage and performance sucked just before the old distributor failed completely. It wasn' until after I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one from Napa that I tried to set the timing, That's when I became aware of the problem with the spout connector NOT affecting the timing... timing remains where I set it, with or without the spout plugged in or removed. Timing doesn't advance at all as RPM increases either.(I think this has been the problem since I started driving it a couple of weeks ago. (I'm in the middle of doing the top end on my 4.0L G Cherokee... I'm stuck driving the B2 until I get my jeep running again). Does anyone know what the voltage should be on the "hot" side of the spout? Between the Jeep, Bronco, Work, Life... I don't have much time to work on the B2 but I really need to figure this out... 5 or 6 miles per gallon is killing me. I'll post, check posts as often as I can. Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.
 

Nez'sRanger

Active member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
170
Reaction score
43
Points
28
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9L V6
Transmission
Manual
The gas mileage and performance sucked just before the old distributor failed completely. It wasn' until after I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one from Napa that I tried to set the timing, That's when I became aware of the problem with the spout connector NOT affecting the timing... timing remains where I set it, with or without the spout plugged in or removed. Timing doesn't advance at all as RPM increases either.(I think this has been the problem since I started driving it a couple of weeks ago. (I'm in the middle of doing the top end on my 4.0L G Cherokee... I'm stuck driving the B2 until I get my jeep running again). Does anyone know what the voltage should be on the "hot" side of the spout? Between the Jeep, Bronco, Work, Life... I don't have much time to work on the B2 but I really need to figure this out... 5 or 6 miles per gallon is killing me. I'll post, check posts as often as I can. Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions.
Ouch! I know the pain! I'm gonna be betting on a bad wire in your harness... Specifically the spout connector's wire. If you have a multimeter, you can check continuity between connectors on the harness. You may find an open... or a closed circuit. I just changed all the wiring in my engine bay because I messed it up lifting my engine... Anyway, I noticed when I went over my junkyard salvaged harness that the wires tend to bare themselves, especially near connectors where the plastic shrinks back. If the wires are bare on your spout, they could constantly be in contact, regardless of it being plugged in.
That's a good place to start, and if it's that "simple," it could save you hundreds of bucks in new parts!
 

Oxxon

Active member
Joined
Apr 21, 2019
Messages
268
Reaction score
44
Points
28
Location
Brownsville, Tx
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Hello and welcome to TRS!!
 

Bits4Bytes

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Location
Pacific NorthWest
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I always read SPOUT voltage should be half of running alternator voltage....

Not arguing but just what i read. So 6-7V should be in ballpark.

Im seriously betting on a TFI or ECM.

Have you pulled codes?
Yep, pulled several codes, 12, 22, 33... the #12 is new, bought a new Idle Air Control, hopefully that solves the #12. Still have that timing problem with the spout...the spout connector has no effect on the timing, timing stays where I set it, timing does not advance with RPM. 6.7 to 7 volts at the spout. I'm using a Actron 9690 to read the codes. One of the Features with the Actron is the Computer Aided Timing function, it allows the ECM to set timing at 20% plus, or minus 3%. The Actron does it automatically when you run the computer aided timing feature... I'm suspicious that the Actron might have set a false code? Anyone familiar with the Actron and/or the Computed Aided Timing feature?
 

rusty ol ranger

2.9L Mafia-Don
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
5,200
Reaction score
1,134
Points
113
Location
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Code 33 is an EGR code IIRC.

Whats 22?

Also what year is this BII? If its a 86/87 i wonder if you have a knock sensor issue? A ticking valvetrain can trick the knock sensor into retarding timing, but im not sure at that point if it would still advance a little or not with the spout.
 

Bits4Bytes

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Points
3
Location
Pacific NorthWest
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Ouch! I know the pain! I'm gonna be betting on a bad wire in your harness... Specifically the spout connector's wire. If you have a multimeter, you can check continuity between connectors on the harness. You may find an open... or a closed circuit. I just changed all the wiring in my engine bay because I messed it up lifting my engine... Anyway, I noticed when I went over my junkyard salvaged harness that the wires tend to bare themselves, especially near connectors where the plastic shrinks back. If the wires are bare on your spout, they could constantly be in contact, regardless of it being plugged in.
That's a good place to start, and if it's that "simple," it could save you hundreds of bucks in new parts!
Thanks for the reply, the wiring is horrible... brittle, and "pulled back' like you mentioned. Especially where the wires enter the connectors. I'm slowly replacing the connectors I can with Pigtail?connectors from Napa. 'Im eventually going to replace all the connectors with the GM "Weather Pack" line of connectors. Some of the connectors in the engine compartment have been damaged by the heat from the exhaust manifolds, or they are broken and abused by age. I work for Napa at a major Distribution Center in Portland, OR so I have access to the parts I need, and I can pick the brains of my customers too... Its a nice little B2, just want to make it as reliable
Code 33 is an EGR code IIRC.

Whats 22?

Also what year is this BII? If its a 86/87 i wonder if you have a knock sensor issue? A ticking valvetrain can trick the knock sensor into retarding timing, but im not sure at that point if it would still advance a little or not with the spout.
IT'S A 1986 B2 2.9L 4WD automatic.... cODE 22= MAP SENSOR-OUT OF RANGE, that was a pinched vacuum line, fixed that one. Actually the Knock sensor suggestion is interesting... my B2 doesn't seem to have one... found the wire wire tied to the harness, but no knock sensor on the block? I've kept track of codes that have came up... couple years ago it had a code 25, knock sensor not detected... it "went away", never thought about it sense. I've had this B2 since 2014, use it to park a 27' travel trailer. thats been it's life for the most part, only started it to move the trailer around. Really got me baffled with the spout connector issue. I've loooked into replacing the ECM (computer), problem there is its got numbers on it that no one recognizes, cant order the correct one without original ford numbers on module???
 

rusty ol ranger

2.9L Mafia-Don
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
5,200
Reaction score
1,134
Points
113
Location
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Thanks for the reply, the wiring is horrible... brittle, and "pulled back' like you mentioned. Especially where the wires enter the connectors. I'm slowly replacing the connectors I can with Pigtail?connectors from Napa. 'Im eventually going to replace all the connectors with the GM "Weather Pack" line of connectors. Some of the connectors in the engine compartment have been damaged by the heat from the exhaust manifolds, or they are broken and abused by age. I work for Napa at a major Distribution Center in Portland, OR so I have access to the parts I need, and I can pick the brains of my customers too... Its a nice little B2, just want to make it as reliable


IT'S A 1986 B2 2.9L 4WD automatic.... cODE 22= MAP SENSOR-OUT OF RANGE, that was a pinched vacuum line, fixed that one. Actually the Knock sensor suggestion is interesting... my B2 doesn't seem to have one... found the wire wire tied to the harness, but no knock sensor on the block? I've kept track of codes that have came up... couple years ago it had a code 25, knock sensor not detected... it "went away", never thought about it sense. I've had this B2 since 2014, use it to park a 27' travel trailer. thats been it's life for the most part, only started it to move the trailer around. Really got me baffled with the spout connector issue. I've loooked into replacing the ECM (computer), problem there is its got numbers on it that no one recognizes, cant order the correct one without original ford numbers on module???
The only real differences are cali emission and auto/manual.

Order one with fed emissions for a 86/87 2.9 with an auto youll be fine.

OR...

A 88-92 2.9 federal emission/automatic if you want to gut the EGR and ignore the knock sensor. After 88 ford did away with those two things.

I put a 88 ECM in my 87.
 


Top