My 1996 Ford Ranger 4x4 (TRS-2) Re-Build


Jim Oaks

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Location
Roanoke, Texas
Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
AWE NUTS!!

P1443 Evap Emission CTRL System CTRL Valve code came back.
 


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Jim Oaks

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Location
Roanoke, Texas
Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
32323
After getting the P1443 Evap Emission CTRL System CTRL Valve code again, I decided to replace the Canister Purge Solenoid. This is in a hose connected to the charcoal canister.

I also replaced the hose that attaches to the vacuum canister because it was cracking at the end. This hose is 3/8" on one end, and 1/4" at the other.

I used a 3/8" vacuum 90 degree elbow, and some 1/4" vacuum hose, and attached the two together with a 1/4" - 3/8" plastic connector.

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Ford Ranger Driving Cycle:

I've had problems getting the CAT to show that it's ready to test, so I tried a different Ford Driving Cycle that I found online that worked for the Ford Ranger:

http://www.obd2.com/support/reprog/downloads/ford/ford-imset_procedure.pdf

For all other Ford Vehicles

Pre-Conditioning Requirements:

· Cold soak the vehicle for 8 hours
· No DTCs present
· Fuel fill between 15% & 85 %

Driving Procedure

1) Start the vehicle and idle for four (4) minutes.

2) Idle the vehicle in drive for 40 seconds (neutral for M/T).

3) Accelerate to 45 mph, using ¼ to ½ throttle (M/T stay in second gear for at least 5 seconds). Accelerate for at least 10 seconds and shift through to 5th gear.

4) Drive with a steady throttle at 45 mph for 30 seconds.

5) Stop the vehicle and idle in drive or neutral for 40 seconds.

6) Drive at speeds between 25 and 45 mph for 15 minutes.

Use 1/4 to 1/2 throttle accelerations. Include the following conditions:​

· At least 5 stops with ten seconds of idle time.​
· At least 3 steady speed sections of 1 ½ minutes duration.​

7) Drive the vehicle between 45 and 60 mph for 8 minutes (use high gear).

8) Maintain a steady speed between 45 and 60 mph for 5 minutes.

9) Drive the vehicle between 45 and 60 mph for 8 minutes (use high gear).

10) Stop vehicle, idle for 40 seconds.

Believe it or not, this actually worked. After doing this drive cycle I pulled over, scanned the truck, and saw that it was now inspection ready.

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Passed Inspection!

Seeing that the truck was ready for inspection, I drove to my closest inspection station, got the truck inspected, and got my inspection report so I can finally get license plates. This all happened on Friday, and the temporary plate on the truck expired today. :yahoo:
 

Jim Oaks

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Location
Roanoke, Texas
Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
Fixed The Odometer:

When I got the Ranger back, I discovered that the odometer was no longer working. I also discovered that the Check Engine light was burned out. I decided to remove the gauge cluster so I could repair these issues, and upgrade the (6) main lights that illuminate the gauges with LED lights.

The gauges are in (3) sections. The speedometer and tech is in the middle, and then the gauges on each side overlap the middle cluster. This means you have to remove the side clusters to get the middle section out, and get to the motor that turns the odometer.

See the metal clips in the pic below where the cluster has been removed? Your gauges have long metal pins that slide in to those. When you start lifting the gauges straight up (gently), they'll be releasing from these clips.

odometer_fix-1.JPG

Here's the back side of the speedomter and tachometer cluster.

odometer_fix-2.JPG

This electric motor turns your odometer. It's held in place by (2) locking tabs.

odometer_fix-3.PNG

Turn the motor clockwise to get unlock it, and then lift it out.

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Here you can see the broken gear. This gear was so bad that it was crumbling in my fingers as I tried to remove what was left of it.

odometer_fix-5.JPG

Here's the new odometer motor gear that I ordered from Amazon.

odometer_fix-6.JPG
The new gear is installed on the motor and ready to go back in to the cluster.

odometer_fix-7.JPG

All done.

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This was an easy fix, and only cost $10.00.
 

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Jim Oaks

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Location
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Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
Check Engine Light & Gauge Lighting (Bulbs):

I needed to replace my burned out check engine light before I got the truck inspected.

The large black knobs are the light holders for the #194 bulbs that light up the gauges. The light brown holders are for the 'idiot lights' (check engine, etc).

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I labelled the socket for the check engine light. These tiny instrument lights (check engine light) take a #74 bulb.

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Here you can see the placement of the bulbs. Since I took the gauges out to fix the odometer gear, I just replaced the bulbs from this side.

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I replaced the (6) #194 gauge lights with Sylvania Cool White #194 LED light bulbs. You should be able to find this packaged with (2) bulbs at your local parts store.

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The package says that these also fits #168 bulbs.

A normal 168 bulb is 4.9 watts, and a 194 bulb is 3.8 watts. Both are the exact same size. When I looked at the LED's, they're both listed at 5-watts.

Some people will complain that they're not going to pay $7-$8 for a bulb. Yes, you can get cheaper LED's from Amazon, but I have found that those cheap LED's can start to flicker or burn out after a year. I chose to go with a brand name bulb to avoid having to pull my gauge cluster back out in a year or two.
 

bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Clearly the truck was allergic to you.



so you cracked out the Zyrtec on its ass.
 

Jim Oaks

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Location
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Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
She's mad at me for breaking up with her, but she's coming around. Can't say that about the other girls.

Surprisingly, everything works but the A/C. The fan with switch between the various settings (defrost, vent, floor). The compressor cycles on and off if you turn it on. Clearly no freon in it.

The next two issues I need to tackle are:

Rebuilding the snorkel. This one howls just off idle.

Replace the far rear squeaking exhaust mount.
 

Bird76Mojo

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You're getting there pretty quick now. The list of things to fix keeps getting smaller..
 

Jim Oaks

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Location
Roanoke, Texas
Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
Jealous of that one...
LOL. Not really.

I'm tired of the noisy power steering pump, so that needs modified to an electric pump.

The right front fiberglass fender is broke. The whole truck needs body work and a paint job.

The drivers seat is broke (reclining function is stripped), and the whole interior needs a make over. Which also means I need to replace most of the plastic dash panels because they're all broke somewhere.

I need to replace the front radius arm bushings with new ones to push the axle back forward some, and add some new coil spring insulators under the front springs to hopefully get rid of some of the banging noise in the front.

Then there's the fact that the front Detroit Locker is still tweaked and not 100% anymore. Needs replaced with an electric locker.

But breaking it down in stages or groups makes it easier.
 

Jim Oaks

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Location
Roanoke, Texas
Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
Red Gauge Needles:

Since I had the gauge cluster out to fix the Check Engine Light and odometer gear, I decided to clean it up and give it some red needles.

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Here's the boring stock gauges.

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And here's the gauges after I made the needles red.

To do this, I simply used a red Sharpie (permanent marker), and coated the top of the needles. I used some tape to mask off the areas I didn't want the red marker to get on. I did not do the sides, only the tops.

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The surface was pretty dusty, so I wiped them off with a wet cloth. I didn't use any cleaner, just water and a cloth.

Here they are lit up, along with the new 194 LED bulbs.

It looks like I should have used more marker. I'd suggest that anyone doing this apply several coats, and allow some drying time in between. I'll touch them up later when I redo the interior. Still, it's a neat mod that only costs the price of a permanent marker.

32364
 

Craig0320

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My credo
Break it right the first time. Fix it better the next time.

Jim Oaks

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Location
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Vehicle Year
1996 / 2019
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
Battery Keeps Dying:

I put a new battery in the truck when Bobby and I was getting it back together. For some reason, if I leave it parked for a week, the battery keeps going dead. There's nothing turned on. I've left my expedition parked for weeks, and it kept a charge.

Any ideas on how to find the source of what's draining your battery???
 

bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
Some trucks kill a battery in two weeks, some two months, some can sit a year. My shop truck is haunted. It will eat a battery in less then 2 hrs out of the blue sometimes....

Your sure there are no accessories on?
 

ericbphoto

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Age
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Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Yes. RonD has written this up a few times. But what I would do is....

1. Disconnect negative battery cable
2. Connect multimeter in series between negative battery terminal and cable. Make sure meter is set to amps and make sure the test leads are plugged into the right holes for measuring current. ( On some meters, one of the leads goes to a different hole for this measurement)
3. You should be reading some current. If normal, I believe it should be around 0.2amps or less ( or maybe it should be 0.02amps. I haven't read his procedure lately)
4. If it's too high, start pulling fuses, one at a time until the current drops. The last fuse you pulled is the circuit with the problem.

You can save time by pulling the fuse for the cab fuse panel supply first. That will tell you if it's a circuit from the under hood panel or the cab panel
 

bobbywalter

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TRS Technical Advisor
TRS Banner 2012-2015
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Joined
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Messages
19,187
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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
There is a billion parasitic draw test articles and toob vids.
 


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