Method to correctly locate V8 in engine bay?


35Remmy

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Ok, so I have James Duff engine mounts and the directions for drilling new holes into the crossmember are USELESS...can I simply drop in the engine and transmission as one unit and let the transmission mount determine where the engine winds up? I feel like I only have 1 chance to drill these holes correctly the first time. Extremely nervous and intimidated. I also need to make sure I have enough clearance for the Duff conversion headers I will be using for now. AND I still need to push back heater box with an oil filter for valve cover clearance. Your thoughts??? Thanks for your time guys.
 


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35Remmy

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So....after looking at it and looking at it, the transmission crossmember HAS to play most of the part in locating the engine, at least forward and aft. I’m running the James Duff 5.5“ lift which comes with a heavy duty crossmember. I’d say once the trans mount bolts are installed I have maybe 1/4” of play forward and aft. Left and right is yet to be determined, but I “should” be able to figure that out once the headers are installed.
No offense to other members that have done it, I am NOT taking material off of the already weak frame rails to fit the headers. Just looks scary to me, esp with the HP of the 363.
I am running a serpentine setup with a Northern V8 conversion radiator, and don’t know whether I can run a mechanical fan yet or if I will have to go the Taurus fan route (radiator is not installed yet, had to replace radiator support, and installing that is for another post!)
I currently have the front clip off of the truck, so stabbing in the engine and trans should be rather easy.
If anyone has any comments, please feel free to comment. I’ve been away from the truck for a few years now and am finally ready to jump back into it!!!
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I might use a plumb bob and tape measure to check clearances at the firewall. Drop the plumb bob down to ground and make a mark. Do the same at trans mount. Measure and compare to engine/trans. Then you know if it needs to go forward or back for clearance issues.
 

35Remmy

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I appreciate the reply! I was also wondering how close to the firewall I will get before I reach the point that the transmission cannot go anymore back. Like I said before I still need to heat up heater box and flatten with an FL1A
 

35Remmy

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I really need to subscribe to photobucket and post some pictures. I’d like to show her off heh. Originally a hi rider. James Duff 5.5 suspension, 2” body lift...James Duff traction bars...On 35” Mickey Thompson Baja MTZs now. Explorer 8.8, 4.10s, rear discs, Cobra Mustang limited slip, racing axles, welded....Front Dana 35....C4 built in Texas for 500 HP...Borg Warner 1350 manual transfer case with Advance Adapters C4 adapter (1350 will probably explode) Dart block, AFR heads, Performer RPM intake, custom Comp Cams camshaft, custom torque converter.....hi rider rear tube bumper, push bar and roll bar all re done. Truck is seriously 95%....and is my pride and joy. Had her since 1998 and has been garage kept since then. I’ll post soon!!! Too much to list.
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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You can upload pics directly to TRS. Hit the "attach files" button.
 

CUracing

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I would set the engine/trans as far back as possible, even if that means relocating trans cross member/mount. You will have radiator to water pump clearance issues if you don't. Skip the 1350 and go directly to d20 or np205. I turned several transfer cases to scrape metal before I learned, and I had a very mild 5.0 ln my bronco II.
 

Ramcharger90

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When I put my motor in I used 4.0 rubber mounts and used steel plates. I used the transmission to line up where the engine was going to sit. But then again you're truck may vary from everone else's. I also just put my 4.0 rubber mounts in the same holes my 2.3 mounts came out of.
 

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I really need to subscribe to photobucket and post some pictures. I’d like to show her off heh. Originally a hi rider. James Duff 5.5 suspension, 2” body lift...James Duff traction bars...On 35” Mickey Thompson Baja MTZs now. Explorer 8.8, 4.10s, rear discs, Cobra Mustang limited slip, racing axles, welded....Front Dana 35....C4 built in Texas for 500 HP...Borg Warner 1350 manual transfer case with Advance Adapters C4 adapter (1350 will probably explode) Dart block, AFR heads, Performer RPM intake, custom Comp Cams camshaft, custom torque converter.....hi rider rear tube bumper, push bar and roll bar all re done. Truck is seriously 95%....and is my pride and joy. Had her since 1998 and has been garage kept since then. I’ll post soon!!! Too much to list.
You can also download the imgur app to upload pics if the file is too large. Just upload to app and copy link and paste in thread.
 

Shran

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As was said... you want the engine as far back as possible. I dropped mine in with no motor mounts attached and modified the heater box, the attached the motor mounts and cut slots in the engine crossmember (I used Mustang motor mounts.) I could have, and should have, moved it back further because I had very little room for fans - that part is FAR more important than where your transmission ends up at. Trans crossmember mods are easy
 

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^^ I also used the flat steel mounts on top of the V6 mounts and my trans sits on the original mount + or - 3/4" because I slotted the holes in the mount. I'm using the Explorer FEAD and I cut out the lower radiator support and made my own moving the radiator forward a couple inches. I could run the stock fan with no problem but I went with a Volvo electric anyway.
 


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