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idles too fast


MCFetty

New Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
11
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a little over 100k on it. It has a high idle condition (around 1250 rpm). I replaced the plenum, throttle body and egr valve gaskets and in the process, five vacuum hoses and cleaned the throttle body thoroughly while I had it off. I have a pcv valve & grommet for it that I am going to install tonight. It runs smoother after all this, but still idles too fast. If I unplug the iac, it settles down to about 750 rpm. I replaced the iac and still have the same result. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 


Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
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Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
When you unplug the iac valve the engine should almost stall out or idle below 500. You still have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 

G8orFord

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RBV's on Boost
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Location
FL
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2001
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC S/C
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
Just the right size to touch the ground.

MCFetty

New Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
11
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Automatic
Any idea how to find it or where to look? Thanks for the info.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
19,304
Reaction score
13,326
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
My credo
I poop in the furnace.
Youtube "how to find a vacuum leak" there are several methods. I prefer using a diy smoke machine (cost about 10 bucks to make). You can also very carefully spray starting fluid around any suspect areas and listen for the engine to rev slightly when the starting fluid gets sucked into the leak. Then theres the old school method of physically inspecting every hose, connection and gasket.
 

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