How to put a aftermarket sender in a factory tank. Without welding!

[tsi617]

Difficulty 2 /10
Time 45 mins

I have a v8 swapped ranger and a after market gauge pack. If you use this thread then realize that you may need a 73-10 ohm sender. Sender swap was made on a 1983 108wb truck.

First get your supplies ready:

5 - 10-32 screws
5 - #8 washers
1 - 10-32 nut
1 - backing plate (got mine at tanksinc.com)
1 - neoprene gasket
1 - cork gasket
1 - sender, I used a 240-30 autometer
1 - 3/16 drill bit
1 - 1 1/2 inch hole saw
- A jig saw with a metal blade
- a drill
- a shop vac
-phillip bit screwdriver

Survey the tank where you want to put the new sender. I chose the back of the tank. Then I put down the backing ring and sprayed a coat of yellow paint to use as a template for drilling.


Now take the 1 1/2 hole saw and punch it through the center. Then drill out the 5 holes for the screw. Then take the jig saw and notch the hole just enough for the sender block to drop in the hole and vacuum the inside and outside of the tank. If you drill while the vacuum is next to the bit it will help with the shavings.

Measure the depth and if needed draw a template. My tank was 11 inches so I put my sender length at 5.5. Then I cut the float rod and installed it on the sender.

Drop the backing ring followed by the neoprene gasket in the tank using one bolt to hold up in through a hole. This will act as a stud. Then instal the gasket followed by the sender.

Snug every thing down and reinstall the tank if you removed it from the truck. (Not necessaryas I changed tanks and sdumped mine)

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Looks good.

One thing I may add is usually OEM has it read empty before it is really empty to give you a chance to scurry somewhere to get gas. Yours has a sump which would get you a little extra but most won't.

 

[cammeddrz]

i clicked into this thread which read "without welding"

because I couldn't for the life of me gather why you would need to do any welding in the first place to install an aftermarket sender.

they are designed to not to need welding

i'm not trying to be a dick, but everything on this writeup can be found on the instructions included with an aftermarket sender. helpful? maybe, but hardly something I would have submitted for the tech library

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

ii'm not trying to be a dick, but everything on this writeup can be found on the instructions included with an aftermarket sender.

As someone with a truck that has an obsolete fuel sender and has purchased plenty of aftermarket stuff that didn't work like I thought it would and/or has sketchy if there at all instructions I found it informative.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I was the one that suggested that this be submitted for tech. I thought it was informative and might jog someone into doing it themselves if it is was shown how easy it is, as that is the effect it had on me.

Richard

 

[tsi617]

In regards to the no welding comment, there are 3 ways to mount the sender. A steel plate is welded to the tank with threaded holes, a clamp type like the one I used or sheet metal screws, which I think that only a hack would use and is unsafe as they are not positively secure.

There was no info on the Web on how to do this other than Google autometer's site for generic instructions. Thus why I did the write up.

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