HELP - Electrical issues - Trying to start knocks out all power and causes rapid clicking under the dash in the passenger area.

[TheCitrusMaster]

2000 Mazda B3000 3.0 - Exact same as ford Ranger 3.0
I am feeling very confused about this issue. It started a few days ago, I had just gotten home from work an hour ago (started just fine then thankfully) and I got in my truck to run to the store real quick. I turned the key and it blew fuse #5 (ignition fuse 50A). After finding the fuse I replaced the fuse and the ignition switch (only 15$ anyway) and it didn't fix the issue. Then, I took the starter out to get it tested. Orileys tested it 3 times and said my starter was just fine. They said that I probably have a short somewhere, and that if I disconnect the ignition wire from the starter and attempt to start it, it should still pop the fuse. This will indicate a short somewhere that isn't the starter itself. I tested this and the fuse did not blow. Stumped, I cleaned the terminals on the starter and tried to start and IT STARTED.
Now comes the part that confuses me. I let it run for about 30 seconds and shut it off. I tried to start it again, and it knocked out all of the power to the car (except notably the PATS theft light was still blinking, not rapidly just normally). After the power is knocked out I get a rapid clicking (about 2 clicks per second) from the passenger side dash. The clicking stops when I press the brake pedal, or try to turn on the headlights, or overhead lights. After about a minute the clicking stops and I get power again. If I try to start, the power is knocked out and I get clicking again.
After this, I replaced the starter relay and tightened the battery terminals. I also charged the battery (it is almost brand new), tested voltage at 12.68v. Tried to start and none of this helped.
I am pretty stumped as to what is going on. Right now I suspect that I had a bad ground, bad ignition wire to the starter, or bad battery cables. I checked all of the cables and they LOOK just fine, but I guess I will start replacing them anyway since I am clueless as to what else to do.
If anyone out there can give me any information as to what is going on and how to fix it that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[Ranger850]

Sounds like a bad battery, but you say you tested it. Was that before you charged it? Have to ask, sorry. The battery is not holding the charge, so either the battery is bad and NOT charging, or your alternator is NOT charging the battery. Almost brand new batteries can go bad. Hopefully it's still under warranty.

 

[Uncle Gump]

If you popped a 50 amp fuse... it was dead shorted to ground when that happened. Apparently it is intermittent because it didn't blow again. I would be looking at any wiring that has been added for lights? Radio? Anything Aftermarket?

My guess is a burned up connection someplace after that 50 amp fuse and causing low voltage/short circuit/poor connection and playing havoc on things. Might even be in the underhood fuse relay center or fuse panel.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I had similar symptoms on my 97 f150, including the clicking on the passenger side dash. It ended up being bad battery wire terminals. I crimped on new ends and the problem is gone.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I had similar symptoms on my 97 f150, including the clicking on the passenger side dash. It ended up being bad battery wire terminals. I crimped on new ends and the problem is gone.

Did it blow a 50 amp ignition fuse?

 

[ericbphoto]

It could. A bad connection causes lower voltage to the circuits that it supplies. This, in turn, can cause higher current, particularly for inductive loads like motors or ignition coils because it changes the inductive reactance and lowers something called "counter-electromotive force" (CEMF) of those items.

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

The battery was giving out 12.68 volts and was steady, so I am thinking that it is fine as well. It is also fully charged. Also, the battery is holding the charge just fine. The 50A fuse was the ignition fuse.

If you popped a 50 amp fuse... it was dead shorted to ground when that happened. Apparently it is intermittent because it didn't blow again. I would be looking at any wiring that has been added for lights? Radio? Anything Aftermarket?

My guess is a burned up connection someplace after that 50 amp fuse and causing low voltage/short circuit/poor connection and playing havoc on things. Might even be in the underhood fuse relay center or fuse panel.

I installed an aftermarket radio but it is working just fine, even with the issues I am having...lol. That is the only aftermarket wiring I have installed. It stays off when I start the car by default, and only turns on when I press the "on" button, so I doubt that is an issue.
Since the 50A fuse is the ignition fuse, what comes after that? The starter relay and then starter right?

Does anyone know exactly what it is that is clicking under my dash? It is a rapid click not just a single one, and it is coming from the passenger side.
Turning a wrench is easy enough but electrical issues take too much critical thinking for me.

I am thinking that I will try replacing the terminals on the battery cables tomorrow and see if that helps. I will keep you guys updated and thank you everyone for your input so far

 

[ericbphoto]

If your GEM is mounted on the passenger side, the clicking is probably a relay in that. I'm not as familiar with the newer trucks and where things are mounted in them. Someone here will know.

 

[Ranger850]

I noticed the clicking under the dash when i opened my door, it stopped. Over head light caused the whole truck to go dead. Bad battery for me.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Make sure you check the other ends of the battery cables.
Not to do with my original post but...My 97 must have been traveling in salt mines because everything under the body is rusted to holes. I just finished crimping a new end on the starter wire down by the starter...the copper lug was corroded in half. Then I ended up replacing the starter because the copper wire running from bat+ to the solenoid was also corroded thru.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I think we are all speaking the same language here... Bad Battery = Low voltage... High resistance in a connection = voltage drop = low voltage. We all agree that a low voltage situation will cause things that are on that circuit to do strange things... like cycling a relay do to low voltage not allowing the relay to close and hold.

Eric... I don't have a EE degree... however I have seen recently a low voltage situation burn up my dough machine motor... but it never popped a breaker in the process. I wish it would have.... it would have saved me north of a thousand dollars. I'm not saying that a low voltage situation couldn't blow a fuse... But in my 12V experience I've never seen a voltage drop in a circuit cause a circuit to overload... in fact... it has always been the opposite. I still think to blow a 50 amp fuse... that circuit was dead shorted to ground somewhere. But I have been wrong before...

 

[ericbphoto]

I think we are all speaking the same language here... Bad Battery = Low voltage... High resistance in a connection = voltage drop = low voltage. We all agree that a low voltage situation will cause things that are on that circuit to do strange things... like cycling a relay do to low voltage not allowing the relay to close and hold.

Eric... I don't have a EE degree... however I have seen recently a low voltage situation burn up my dough machine motor... but it never popped a breaker in the process. I wish it would have.... it would have saved me north of a thousand dollars. I'm not saying that a low voltage situation couldn't blow a fuse... But in my 12V experience I've never seen a voltage drop in a circuit cause a circuit to overload... in fact... it has always been the opposite. I still think to blow a 50 amp fuse... that circuit was dead shorted to ground somewhere. But I have been wrong before...

I wasn’t trying to argue against a short. Just trying to provide credibility for the low voltage scenario. A short or intermittent short is still a possibility.

I don’t have an EE degree either. Just 37+ years in the electrical field and some good training to back it up. Willing to share whatever I can.

 

[Uncle Gump]

That's why I like this place... sharing... I usually learn something every time I'm here.

To the OP... A low voltage condition will cause the issues you're having with the rattle under the dash. You certainly need to ensure the battery connections are solid... both ends... both positive and negative. If that doesn't fix things... I would be looking hard at what comes off that 50 amp fuse.

 

[Ranger850]

+++++^^^^^^THIS^^^^^+++++

 

[TheCitrusMaster]

The 50A fuse goes from the ignition to the starter relay, and from there to the starter. I already replaced that relay, so I dont think that is the issue. I am going to install a new wire from the relay to the starter, and also new battery terminals and see if that fixes the issue.
I took a closer look at the battery terminals and realized that they are actually aftermarket terminals. I have never paid enough attention to ford terminals to know what they actually look like normally. I have only had the car for a year so I guess the old owners installed new terminals at some point. They didn't solder them on, so that could be causing connection issues even though there is no corrosion. I will find some new terminals and solder them on.
I am fairly certain that doing ^ will take care of my issue. If not, ill go from there.
This next two weeks is finals for me in college, and since I have another car I am not too worried about getting it running immediately. Ill keep you guys posted.
Again, thank you all for the help I really do appreciate it.