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DeepSleeper

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Peoria, AZ
Vehicle Year
2005
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Ford Ranger XLT
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I bought my first Ford Ranger about 2 months ago and just joined this form yesterday. I have a blue 2005 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with a 4.0l engine and 5-speed manual. It is getting close to 216,000 miles. About a month ago, I replaced what I think was the original clutch, clutch slave cylinder, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal (surprised it was not leaking), and flywheel (I did not want to wait for a shop to resurface my flywheel, so I just purchased a new one). It received new front brake rotors and pads shortly after. It shifts better than it did before the clutch replacement, but I think it could still shift a little better. I did not replace the transmission mount bushing. Should I have replaced that as well? I am looking forward to learning from you all.

Thank you,

Zack
 


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ericbphoto

Old Redneck just wingin' it.
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1993
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Ford Ranger
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3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Welcome to the forum! Sounds like a good truck.
 

DeepSleeper

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Ford Ranger XLT
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Thank you Eric! I am currently working on the clutch master cylinder. Hoping this will resolve my remaining shifting issues.
 

Oxxon

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Hello and welcome to TRS!!
 

DeepSleeper

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Good evening and thank you!
 

cnord

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Lake Forest Park,WA
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Transmission
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I bought my first Ford Ranger about 2 months ago and just joined this form yesterday. I have a blue 2005 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with a 4.0l engine and 5-speed manual. It is getting close to 216,000 miles. About a month ago, I replaced what I think was the original clutch, clutch slave cylinder, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal (surprised it was not leaking), and flywheel (I did not want to wait for a shop to resurface my flywheel, so I just purchased a new one). It received new front brake rotors and pads shortly after. It shifts better than it did before the clutch replacement, but I think it could still shift a little better. I did not replace the transmission mount bushing. Should I have replaced that as well? I am looking forward to learning from you all.

Thank you,

Zack
I am going through this process right now. I have a 96 xtl 4.0l with the MDO5 (manual 5 spd), manual xfer case. I just dropped the transmission and transfer case. I'll replace the clutch assembly, slave cylinder, possibly the flywheel. Anyway, I suspect I will need to replace the main seal. How easy was it to change out the mail seal? Special tool required to seat?
 

DeepSleeper

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Peoria, AZ
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Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Manual
I am going through this process right now. I have a 96 xtl 4.0l with the MDO5 (manual 5 spd), manual xfer case. I just dropped the transmission and transfer case. I'll replace the clutch assembly, slave cylinder, possibly the flywheel. Anyway, I suspect I will need to replace the main seal. How easy was it to change out the mail seal? Special tool required to seat?
Sorry for the late reply, and it was not extremely difficult to remove the rear main seal. I removed the seal with tools similar to those below, and replaced the seal with a Fel-Pro seal from AutoZone. The Fel-Pro seal came on a plastic ring that greatly simplified installation. Once I set the seal in its position, I used a flathead screwdriver to help me tap it in the rest of the way.

Removal Tools:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20758A-Ring-Remover-Contoured/dp/B00I3RLN44/ref=pd_cp_263_2/137-2243421-4623151?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00I3RLN44&pd_rd_r=8447bb7c-f728-440e-a173-19dee3a19594&pd_rd_w=k68oO&pd_rd_wg=O5AWD&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=X7N0E2TSXH6Q1R7C3M5P&psc=1&refRID=X7N0E2TSXH6Q1R7C3M5P
 

ericbphoto

Old Redneck just wingin' it.
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Age
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Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
A soft dowel is better than a screwdriver because it is less likely to damage the new seal. Brass, aluminum, or even a wood dowel should work. Work evenly around the seal, going a little bit at a time. Don't try to knock one side the whole way in and then the other side.
 

cnord

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Sorry for the late reply, and it was not extremely difficult to remove the rear main seal. I removed the seal with tools similar to those below, and replaced the seal with a Fel-Pro seal from AutoZone. The Fel-Pro seal came on a plastic ring that greatly simplified installation. Once I set the seal in its position, I used a flathead screwdriver to help me tap it in the rest of the way.

Removal Tools:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20758A-Ring-Remover-Contoured/dp/B00I3RLN44/ref=pd_cp_263_2/137-2243421-4623151?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00I3RLN44&pd_rd_r=8447bb7c-f728-440e-a173-19dee3a19594&pd_rd_w=k68oO&pd_rd_wg=O5AWD&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=X7N0E2TSXH6Q1R7C3M5P&psc=1&refRID=X7N0E2TSXH6Q1R7C3M5P

Thanks for the reply. I just picked up a Fel-Pro BS 40619 seal set; main seal and metal sleeve. The 'sleeve' is new to me. I assume this is used to assist in the install?
 

DeepSleeper

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Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
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I don't know about that rear main seal model. I used the Fel-Pro BS 40647. Maybe a more experienced forum member will know.
 


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