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Front and rear axle swap, 1995 to 1988


PetroleumJunkie412

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Ok, so new axles are inbound. Both out of a 1994 or 1995 (can't remember) extended cab xlt 4.0l, 4x4, M5OD, 1354, 8.8 posi rear, D35 front.

Will these be a bolt on for a 1988 frame? Same setup- 4x4, manual, etc. Was guessing both will be, but wanted to double check.

Planning on setting these up on my new frame as soon as it comes back from sandblasting. May get the axles blasted as well; my guy works cheap.

Oh, and off topic (which one of my posts isn't...), but is the M5OD that's behind the 1995's 4.0 geared differently than the 1990 M5OD on mine? Mine came from a 1990 2.9 truck. Already planning on robbing the 10 inch clutch off of the 4.0, so if it's trans is a better set of gears, I'm going to grab it as well.
 


don4331

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I wanted to make the list but can't get a smart@$$ comment that wouldn't be too obscure.

The '94/5 rear axle has the same 38-1/2" spring centers, same tube diameter, so bolts up in exact same spot you pulled the OEM axle out of. It's just 2" wider (1" each side).

D35s were all 59.5" wide and they too bolt in to same spot you pulled the OEM axle out of.

M5OD from your 2.9 has 3.72/2.20/1.50/1.00/0.79 ratios; the 4.0 transmission has 3.40/2.05/1.31/1.00/0.79, you will need to decide if that is better gearing or not. Lower 1st versus stronger transmission.
 

Josh B

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I swapped a front and rear axle once, back around 1982. It took a loose ball joint and a telephone pole to do it.

Disclaimer, No animals, or other people, were hurt in the accomplishment of this procedure
 
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PetroleumJunkie412

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G
I wanted to make the list but can't get a smart@$$ comment that wouldn't be too obscure.

The '94/5 rear axle has the same 38-1/2" spring centers, same tube diameter, so bolts up in exact same spot you pulled the OEM axle out of. It's just 2" wider (1" each side).

D35s were all 59.5" wide and they too bolt in to same spot you pulled the OEM axle out of.

M5OD from your 2.9 has 3.72/2.20/1.50/1.00/0.79 ratios; the 4.0 transmission has 3.40/2.05/1.31/1.00/0.79, you will need to decide if that is better gearing or not. Lower 1st versus stronger transmission.
Give it time, everyone will eventually make the list.

Awesome info. Should give me the increased stance I'm looking for as well.

Doesnt seem like the 4.0 gear Ratios will be an improvement over the current ones. Was looking for a slightly better ratio on the highway.
 

Josh B

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I was hoping that hadn't highjacked your thread sir, please carry it on, I can be of no further assistance here, thank you
 

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I was hoping that hadn't highjacked your thread sir, please carry it on, I can be of no further assistance here, thank you
That was close enough to being on topic for this group. Don't worry, this thread will go off topic soon enough, but we eventually get back on topic.

94 or 95 makes a difference. 95 used bolt on calipers, 94 still used those stupid rubber/metal sliders.
95 will be different brake hoses, 94 you should be able to reuse yours.
You'll need a new front driveshaft. If you're swapping everything (D35, 13-54) the front driveshaft from the donor will work.
Your current rear driveshaft should work. You may or may not need to change the flange to match the 8.8. (It might be just the Explorer that used the bigger flange.)

When you go to the bigger clutch and flywheel, don't forget the starter and block plate... I'm pretty sure they're different.

Edit - Why would you need a bigger clutch behind a 2.9L? One would think you could replace the clutch disc with a frisbee or an old record... Either of which should hold up to the "power" of a 2.9L.
 
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Josh B

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Could I go to a bigger clutch in my 4.0 (93 model), and could it really make any difference ( I drive normal, no racing etc, don't expect to be doing any serious hillclimbing, trailer towing etc)
 

rusty ol ranger

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Could I go to a bigger clutch in my 4.0 (93 model), and could it really make any difference ( I drive normal, no racing etc, don't expect to be doing any serious hillclimbing, trailer towing etc)
In youre case the factory clutch will be fine.

Edit - Why would you need a bigger clutch behind a 2.9L? One would think you could replace the clutch disc with a frisbee or an old record... Either of which should hold up to the "power" of a 2.9L.
What would really be ideal for a 2.9 would be an electro magnetic clutch with the clutch pedal killing electric power to relese.

No wimpy organic compounds ever really grab hard enough for the 2.9 to put its full fury to the pavement. Thats why you guys think their slow, the stock clutches slip so badly. If they grabbed properly thing would look like my peterbilt taking off in low full throttle pretzleing the frame up a hill....

Now ya know.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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That was close enough to being on topic for this group. Don't worry, this thread will go off topic soon enough, but we eventually get back on topic.

94 or 95 makes a difference. 95 used bolt on calipers, 94 still used those stupid rubber/metal sliders.
95 will be different brake hoses, 94 you should be able to reuse yours.
You'll need a new front driveshaft. If you're swapping everything (D35, 13-54) the front driveshaft from the donor will work.
Your current rear driveshaft should work. You may or may not need to change the flange to match the 8.8. (It might be just the Explorer that used the bigger flange.)

When you go to the bigger clutch and flywheel, don't forget the starter and block plate... I'm pretty sure they're different.

Edit - Why would you need a bigger clutch behind a 2.9L? One would think you could replace the clutch disc with a frisbee or an old record... Either of which should hold up to the "power" of a 2.9L.

Can't remember if my current front driveshaft is the one off my old 1350 or off of my current 1354. Guess I'll find out. Either way, have spares.

The rear one does concern me a bit. Hoping the one out of the new junker fits. My carrier bearing is shot and I really don't want to replace it. Plus, two piece driveshafts suck, IMHO.

Good info on the brakes. That'll be a fun one ?. Planning on all new lines though.

Fortunately I won't be down over this one. Literally prepping my southern frame and axles to be a direct frame-off swap. New work truck gets here next week (2011 F350), so I'll be able to start getting to KaP's more serious issues when I get it off the road and torn down.

And laugh it up. Doughnuts are in your future. ??
 

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If you are going with lower gears and or more power, and aren't planning on crawling around off road, I think the X gearing is preferable.
With stock gears the Ranger shifts out of 1st at 5-8 mph? The X was more like 10-12.
I've dropped the X into 3rd gear at 80 MPH and passed someone in the median.
Versus the Ranger where 3rd is almost too short to cruise on a dirt road and I'm using 4th often.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Just an update:

Went with an Explorer 8.8 / 3.73 / limited slip.

Dana 35 is next to it on the shop floor. Donor was a 1994, so it looks like the brakes bolt up.

Weird part is the brackets. The donor truck's center brackets seem to be an inch or 1.5 in longer/taller than my factory Dana 28 ones. Kept them and the radius arm brackets just in case.
 

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I'll bet the difference in bracket length is to keep the tie rods and linkage level for best caster/camber. 4x4Junkie has a good write up on that in the tech section or as a sticky in the steering section.
 

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Yours is the first mention of that bracket being a different length I seen. I've never had the opportunity of comparing side by side. I can't recall it being mentioned in any swap article that I've read. I'm guessing its because of the d35 knuckle being bigger? @4x4junkie
 

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Your front axle is the older slide pin style. IIRC you calipers even interchange.

I used my stock ‘85 brackets, brackets for my axle were torch cut.
 

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