From Computer to Carburetor.. How to Empty an Engine Bay????


smilinjack

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Hello All, Just pulled my 4.0 from my 95 Ranger, Std. Cab, 2WD. I am going to load my 351C /408 w/ 4 spd. Toploader in it's place.
Needless to say, I've got wire harnesses everywhere along with all the other systems parts and pieces lookin like a bomb went off!! o_O
What I would LIKE to do is empty the engine bay except for the steering and brake apparati (hvac, all the electric) and start prepping for the stuffing!
My question is " what kind of a nightmare will I be creating for myself" if I proceed with this plan?? What HAS to stay, and what CAN go, electrically speaking??
I intend to drive during warm weather only so I'm thinkin a probable delete of hvac?? Any advice is appreciated especially from those of you have done this.
I've got the skills and the tools, just don't have the knowledge! :oops: Thanks, Jack :cool:
 


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Dirtman

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I dont know if the hvac box will even actually fit with a Cleveland. It's way bigger than the Windsor...

If your going with a carb you really don't need anything. If you want to keep the interior stock and use the original gauge cluster then you will definitely need to do some work and save alot of the wiring. But a carbed engine can be wired independently with very little work. So depends what your goals are...
 

smilinjack

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And thats my issue. I do want to keep the dash intact (guage wise) and the exterior lites (head,turn,tail, brake, etc.)
Is there a disconnect somewhere for these functions? Would I just chop, trace, and replace? Are there aftermarket products to handle this?
I know I don't need engine management so do I just leave the remaining harnesses as they are and reroute after install? I was kinda hoping
to clean up the engine bay and make it pretty but if I don't remove these ugly harnesses that ain't gonna happen! Thanks for the reply tho.
 

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Are you interested in having the stock speedometer work?
 

19Walt93

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I bought an EVTM for my 93,stripped all the wiring out and went through it circuit by circuit removing everything I didn't want, then made my own harness using the under dash fuse box and deleting the engine compartment box. It was time consuming but I probably spent less than $50 total compared to what a Painless kit would have cost. I'd recommend finding an EVTM first and taking your time. I used a Pertronics distributor which only has 2 wires plus one to feed 12 volts to the coil, since I didn't have a 351 Duraspark distributor and would have had to buy one anyway.
 

19Walt93

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You may want to reconsider using the factory oil pressure gauge because the sender is just a switch, when it sees pressure it sends the gauge to about 2/3 scale regardless what the actual pressure is.
 

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shitcan everything and run a speedway harness.


no issues as you will control everything your way.
 

smilinjack

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Thanks for all the replies!! So cool! so, please describe "EVTM" and "Speedway Harness". Not familiar with these but I'm liking what I'm hearing.
Re: speedometer : is that on a seperate mechanical cable? Do I need to pull the dashboard / guage panel to do the EVTM or Speedway method?
Sorry about all the questions but I really want to get this right the first time. :cool: While I'm at it, did you leave the brake system intact when you emptied the bay??
 

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I think EVTM stands for Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting(?) Manual. Its a ford manual, check on eBay or Amazon, sometimes the show up on Craigslist or kijiji.
 

RonD

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Yes, thats what an EVTM is, its part of the Shop Manual set Ford sends out to their shops EVERY YEAR for EVERY MODEL

If you have a 1995 Ranger then you want a 1995 EVTM, not 1994 or 1996, 1995 only
Other years "might" be the same, key word of course is might
 

smilinjack

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How Cool!! Yesterday I had never heard of an EVTM and as of late last nite I now own one (a 95 at that)! Thank you E Bay and Thank you respondents :cool:
 

19Walt93

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The EVTM is great because it separates the circuits where the actual wiring diagrams would show everything together and looked like a detail roadmap of a city. The later EVTM's show the connector faces with the circuits labeled, unfortunately the 93 manual didn't have that but I muddled through. I started with 4 cardboard boxes full of wiring and reinstalled less than 2 because I don't need ABS, a warning light to tell me the parking brake is on, or a chime to tell me the door is open. A complete harness kit would have been easier and no doubt quicker but I'm retired so my time is my own and being a Yankee doesn't just mean you're from the North, it also means it's physically painful for you to waste money.
 

smilinjack

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Hey Walt, Can the existing ABS simply be disconnected and the brakes still function with no adverse conditions? Is the ABS a computer function
or just a part of the electrical system? BTW, retired also and anticipating a very painful ($) project! But lovin' it. :cool:
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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My credo
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Yes....it is passive


I rework them for brake bias because lockers are hard on Dana 35,s just lock up the spinning tire manually when climbing.

You can individually control the wheel braking for radical burnouts and epic donuts....if you have a rear locker anyway.


The speedway harness is in reference to say a 22 circuit setup from speedway motors.


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smilinjack

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Thanks for that BW. So is the ABS a simple disconnect or a rework?
 


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