Dumb questions about VIN #'s & other STUFFS

[Ranger850]

1. How do VINs work as far as "switching frames" goes.
1b. Is the VIN attached to the chassis or the body. In "attached" I mean, not physically, but Parts #'s wise.
1c. Is the VIN physically attached to the frame anywhere?
2. Does the DMV in your state even care if the frame has been swapped?
2b. Does the DMV care if you done a Cab/Bed swap?
3. What is a good, basically rust free Frame worth to you? (any configuration)
3b. What is a rolling chassis worth to you? (any configuration)
4. Is there ant way to tell the configuration of a cabless/bedless frame just by looking?

The reason I'm asking these ?'s, is because I'm seriously thinking about a plan to start gathering up all these cheap trucks on CL and FBmarket, harvest all the parts I can, and then sale the frames to peoples in need. (mostly you rust belt dwellers) I figured some of us have gone through these steps already and was hoping ya'll could shed some light on it for me. I need to figure shipping and expedition in my price and want to know if its even worth it. BTW TRS members will receive first dibs and possibly a discount. But I'm thinking more than just Rangers, there are a lot of cheap S10's, F150's, Nissans, and Toyotas too.

 

[sgtsandman]

My understanding is that the VIN on the dash is the important one.

 

[Dirtman]

#1 shouldn't matter at all, yes the vin should be stamped in the frame somewhere but no one ever looks for that one. The only vins anyone will ever check (in most states) is the dash, and the one stored in the ecu.
#2 not in the slightest
#3 its value in scrap metal so $50 bucks tops. Rolling chassis, depends wildly on what axles are under it.
#4 frame length is the only way I know how to be sure what setup it's from (regular cab, super cab, long bed, short bed etc.)

My opinion, not a lucrative business idea...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Parting out can bring serious cash, though. My Ranger budget is entirely from stripping parts I know I can sling on eBay at the local you pull junkyard.

Just keep in mind, you make your money when you buy them, not when you sell parts. Have to be strategic with what you pay for vehicles.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It is a lot of time/labor and you get stuck with a lot of parts nobody wants.

 

[RonD]

Each state is a bit different

If a VIN number has been "totaled" by an insurance company then it can only get a "Rebuilt or "Salvaged" title after that, and it usually must have, and pass, a State inspection before it can be deemed Roadworthy again

Yes, the original VIN is stamped into the frame in usually 2 places, some times 3 places, front, under cab and maybe under the bed, its not a plate, numbers are stamped into the metal

Yes, cab has a plate under windshield and on a sicker on drivers door with VIN

Rust free frames or rolling chassis are worth more in areas that salt the roads in winter, lol, I know DUH, but you asked

Unless a frame has been bent or tweaked in a non-reported accident there is not a big market for frames in non-rust belt areas
If frame is bent in a reported accident then VIN is Totaled so even with new frame it would still show Rebuilt or Salvaged

 

[Rimjam]

Have toyed with this same idea myself. Shran & I even discussed it. Rust not an issue here in 'Bama, it's usually the motor or trans goes, vehicle gets listed on craigslist or FB Marketplace a few times & it's off to the crusher (current rate = 5 cents / pound). Just costs too much to ship beds, cabs, front clips to you guys north of the Mason-Dixon. Knew a guy years ago with relatives near Chicago who'd bring down rusty stuff with low miles, good drive train, then return with good southern sheet metal but worn motor, trans, etc. Made a decent living.