Drag Truck - The Danger Ranger


ksack

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Interesting thought. I will have to explore that possibility
Bolts are in a slant pattern. Can only swap them to other side if you point them forward, in which case the alternator is in the way. Gonna have to modify the headers. I'll post more in detail later with pics
 


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ksack

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Good progress this weekend. Here is how I left it Saturday after about 6 hours of work.


Cut out the motor mounts. Took about 2 hours for the 2 of them. Solid rubber with steel supporting structure inside of it. Definitely attached before the crossmember was riveted to the frame because you cant get enough leverage up in there. The pipe I have is too long so I couldn't even try to unbolt them. Just attacked them from the side with a grinder and that's that. Removed the power steering rack and connecting rods. Removed brake booster, AC compressor and headers. Test fit initially had me stopping short of the rear suspension I-beam with the oil pan and I called it a day there. Below is a picture of the oil pan failing to clear the crossmember and I-beams. Next pic is to show the clearance between the heads and the brake master cylinder. I suspected I'd have clearance issues with power brakes so I've already done my homework on manual brakes.





Put in a few more hours today. Removed the rest of the steering column all the way up to the wheel. Cut away some excess material in the trans tunnel and hammered at it a bit to get clearance for the trans. Motor slides in nicely with the headers removed. The headers are going to have to be modified so that it exits along the frame with the flanges perpendicular to the frame for clearance. Final problem for the day is motor alignment. The previous drivetrain was offset to the pax side about 2 inches for fuel tank clearance so the crossmember up front isn't centered. I'm able to get the motor to within 1.25 inches of center but that's as far as she'll go (alternator hits frame and trans hits tunnel). Did the math and if my fitment is true, I'll have a 1 degree lateral pinion angle in the drivetrain. This works fine so that if the vertical pinion ever drops to zero, I'll still have some load on the ujoints. Project for the week is to get some quotes and pro advice on what kind of draftshaft to throw in this sucker. I measured it out to 64.5 inches. Once I have that driveshaft in, I can set the pinion angle on the rear and make some motor mounts. Here is how I left the motor sitting today.

 

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I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but are you planning on boxing the frame?
 

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Do you know about the front end kit AJE Suspension makes for Rangers that uses Foxbody steering and suspension parts? Im currently waiting for mine to be delivered.

Its pricey but would sure make this swap 100x easier on you.
 

ksack

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I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but are you planning on boxing the frame?
Nope. I may add a couple cross members to stiffen but the truck will be getting a cage. Right now the goal is to just get the thing running.

Do you know about the front end kit AJE Suspension makes for Rangers that uses Foxbody steering and suspension parts? Im currently waiting for mine to be delivered.

Its pricey but would sure make this swap 100x easier on you.
I did see that when exploring my options. Trying to keep the dollar cost down
 

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Do you know about the front end kit AJE Suspension makes for Rangers that uses Foxbody steering and suspension parts? Im currently waiting for mine to be delivered.

Its pricey but would sure make this swap 100x easier on you.
Link or more info on that setup? the AJE link in your post goes to mustang specific k member not a ranger swap setup. searched their site and nothing, unless your saying to mod that setup for the ranger?

thanks
z

EDIT: nevermind went directly to AJE's site.... lol 1600-2k, lol damn plus whatever else you'll need rack, spindles, etc... nah ill keep what im doing. probably really goos for someone REALLY wanting to go that route but pricey is correct.
 
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deathbypsi

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Link or more info on that setup? the AJE link in your post goes to mustang specific k member not a ranger swap setup. searched their site and nothing, unless your saying to mod that setup for the ranger?

thanks
z

EDIT: nevermind went directly to AJE's site.... lol 1600-2k, lol damn plus whatever else you'll need rack, spindles, etc... nah ill keep what im doing. probably really goos for someone REALLY wanting to go that route but pricey is correct.
Yes they are pricey but worth it if your serious about going fast. My last 88 Ranger had a 2.3t that ran 11.20s at 120 with the only front end mod being drag shocks. That stock front end is HEAVY and the brakes suck. Even at 120mph I almost ran out of shut down area to make the last turn off at my track. My new truck is going to have double the power of my last one and I need a real adjustable front suspension to dial it in so this is the best choice by far.
AJE put together a smaller kit for me since I wouldnt be using some of the parts in their full kit. I got the K-member,strut towers,motor mounts and A-arms with hiem joints instead of bushings for $1200. I bought a mustang coilover kit for $75 with 125lb coils to start with and got spindles,hubs and brakes off a 04 Mustang GT for $125. Now I just need a manual rack and bump steer kit and I think I will still be just under $2k for the whole conversion. Plus I still have a new manual steering box,Dream Beams and 95 Ranger brake setup to sell off to cushion the blow.
 

ksack

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Alright guys looking for input. Got quotes from 2 shops. One quoted a 4" aluminum shaft with a CV joint for 899 and the other a 4" steel for 475. Both shops were concerned about the length and RPM and came to those separate conclusions. Anyone have any inputs?

Secondly, holding off on the driveshaft until I have the suspension set so I get the length measurement correct and can set the pinion angle once it is here. Emailed Smith Racecraft for some Assassin Bars last Monday. Got a response same day then replied Tuesday morning. I was ready to order on Tuesday but emails and phone calls went unanswered. They FINALLY answered the phone today right before closing and I brought it up and the guy mentioned the tech who does all the email traffic has been out of town. If they weren't the only ones who made the part I would have gone elsewhere...

This weekend I cut all the tabs off the rear axle in preparation for getting the Assassin Bars and getting everything ready to get rewelded. Cutting off the spring perches and shock mounts are a pain where you're trying to keep the heat down and not cut into the axle tube.
 

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Alright guys looking for input. Got quotes from 2 shops. One quoted a 4" aluminum shaft with a CV joint for 899 and the other a 4" steel for 475. Both shops were concerned about the length and RPM and came to those separate conclusions. Anyone have any inputs?
I went through Driveline Specialist of Texas for my aluminum 4"shaft. He had the same concerns for my build as well (length and RPM) with a 3" shaft so stepped it up to the 4" with 1330 joints. I shift just shy of 7000. Only had to bend up a pinch weld at the rear of the tunnel for clearance when the suspension is at full bump in my 88 extended cab. Good prices as well, maybe give them a shout, good guy to talk to.

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/default.html
 

ksack

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I went through Driveline Specialist of Texas for my aluminum 4"shaft. He had the same concerns for my build as well (length and RPM) with a 3" shaft so stepped it up to the 4" with 1330 joints. I shift just shy of 7000. Only had to bend up a pinch weld at the rear of the tunnel for clearance when the suspension is at full bump in my 88 extended cab. Good prices as well, maybe give them a shout, good guy to talk to.

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/default.html
They're actually the ones who quoted me on the steel shaft. Maybe I'll see what they say about an aluminum one.
 

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In my 88 reg cab long bed I used a Crown Vic cop car aluminum shaft with no issues up to 120mph trap speeds. I only made 382 to the wheels and shifted my c4 at 6800 max.
 

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Well since im not overly concerned about weight etc. I went to a local place with measurements and hp/tq specs in the 700 range and they made me a 3.5" cromoly with the larger solid u-joints (id have to look up which) for $325 cash out the door 5work day turnaround. mind you they were a bunch of good ole boys in a driveshaft shop not these big internet based companies. My angles are good enough to not need a CV.

Z
 

ksack

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Well since im not overly concerned about weight etc. I went to a local place with measurements and hp/tq specs in the 700 range and they made me a 3.5" cromoly with the larger solid u-joints (id have to look up which) for $325 cash out the door 5work day turnaround. mind you they were a bunch of good ole boys in a driveshaft shop not these big internet based companies. My angles are good enough to not need a CV.

Z
I'm leaning towards aluminum simply for the weight. Really the question is how much more is the CV than a U-joint?
 

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Update time! But first, if anyone wants any pics posted from previous posts, just let me know and I'll get them reposted...because photobucket sucks.

Two weekends ago I modified the headers to exit parallel the frame rail and out at a 45 degree angle. Don't know quite yet where I'm going to send it from there. I cut off the flange, took out a little bit more material (think of a v-shape), ground it down flush as best I could, and welded the flange back on. The inside needs a bit of finishing to make the seams a bit smoother but overall doesn't look like I'm restricting the flow much.



Got my Assassin Bars in from Smith Racecraft yesterday. They are a busy little shop in Texas and hard to get a hold of. Once I finally got them on the phone, they were very helpful and the owner even sent me pictures from his personal number to help make decisions. Got custom length bars made, as well as the brackets for axle under the spring mounting. Really nice pieces and I can't wait to get them installed.



From here, need to install the Assassin Bars, get the rear axle mocked up, get my measurements for a driveshaft and get that ordered. Once I have the driveshaft in, I can set my pinion angle and get everything welded up and build my motor mounts and trans crossmember. Still accepting opinions on steel vs aluminum and u-joints vs CV
 


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