DJM 4/5 won't align??

[55trucker]

That cam should rotate 360 degrees freely, you may find that you have to grind off some material to get it to do so, I had to do so, I found that the majority of material to be removed was at the *short* side next to the bolt opening. It was a matter of removing some material & test rotate the cam until it did not bind. Doing the grinding there allows full movement & the cams deliver max arm adjustment. If one grinds at the far side you shorten up the max arm movement. I did this with all 8 of them.

 

[2Krngr]

Not sure what brand adjusters are in those installed pics, but I've been buying the Specialty Products 87500 adjuster for 20 years and they have always worked fine with full rotation in the trucks I've done. Not sure about any other brand but these work.

Amazon.com: Specialty Products Company 87500 Camber/Caster Adjustment Kit for Ford: Automotive

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[2Krngr]

It rotates, just not very much. It's racked all the way inboard in that picture. I suppose I could alter the bolts and cam washers to allow more movement if I find that full range is obstructed somehow. I'll mess with it soon..planning to cut a coil from the front and block the rear or something...

Now that I see the pics of those napa ones installed they look almost egg/oval shaped and wouldn't spin 360 in the bracket, can you verify if they are actually perfectly round? The SPC 87500 is the classic goto adjuster kit. I've put a in a dozen sets of those in lowered rangers, never had any issue. They work every time, They will get very tight when rotating to full inboard/outboard but they will go. Maybe you just need a bigger wrench with more leverage to make it move. The other thing I notice google searching pics of the napa set they show some other additional brackets that aren't on your truck? Maybe the tech didn't install all of the parts, and those are supposed to have their own seats to rotate in?

SLA Rangers lowered 4"+ do generally still have some negative camber, which is fine. But it should never have positive.

Some Negative camber does not eat tires like people think, imperfect toe adjustements will destroy tires very fast, and even faster when combined with some camber.

If you can get it any where between -0.5 to -2.0 camber you'll be good. You always want a little toe-IN, as when the momentum of the truck is driving it wants to force the the tires apart. So if it is toed in sitting still the idea is once rolling at speed it will end up at about 0. Never have to set to 0 sitting or you will eat the tires up.

I've gotten 50,000 miles out of Nitto NT's on a 5/7 control arm ranger with -2.5 camber and keeping up with proper toe adjustments.

On a dropped ranger caster is something you'll not really be concerned with, you can get just a hair of adjust buy adjusting the forward/rearward camber bolts differently, but not enough to make much difference, because you really just want to get as much negative camber out of the truck as possible, so you pretty much just set the upper adjusters to full outboard towards the fender. Caster just makes the steering more/less 'lazy' vs 'twitchy' the trucks are setup with so much caster to start with they will always be lazy no matter what. Just take out all the camber you can and get a good toe in and you'll be good.