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Dash space for cage


SeahawkRanger

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I pulled the dash back to drill holes in the dash to add the thru dash roll cage. It’s my first attempt and I see it goes down thru the vent and to the floor. Both sides have wiring in the way. Can it fit with the wiring pulled to the side? Anybody do this type of cage?
 


JOLENE_THE_RANGER

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yeah you should be able to move the wiring out of the way to get the tubes through. i did in my 93
 

SeahawkRanger

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It looks like I also have to drill down through the vent on both sides. The airbag is super close to it also.
 

JOLENE_THE_RANGER

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youre gonna want to remove that air bag. drill through what vents? are you keeping ac?
 

JOLENE_THE_RANGER

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heres some pics of a friends truck. mine has a different dash than your truck (assing you have a 99 like your info says) so these pics would probably help better than mine would
 

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SeahawkRanger

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Nice, thanks! Yeah the passenger side seems doable but my dash is not totally out. Right now I’m having an issue on the drivers side getting the fuse block out of the way. It looks like more duct work to cut out so the block can tuck in under the dash.
 

SeahawkRanger

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One more question. Most mount the rear cage hoop at the very back of the cab. In this area the floor is a raised with access holes to the body bolts. I can’t get a bar from the frame up under the body without cutting the floor or having a big air gap on the raised hump.
I’m thinking of pulling the hoop forward where the rear seats bolted as I can add a frame support there with no issues. I’m in a wet climate (WA) and need to sandwich the floor with plates and then tied to the frame.
 

JOLENE_THE_RANGER

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youre gonna want to definitely take the dash completely out. ive done a lot of cages and that just helps out SO MUCH.
as for the "c pillar" or "rear hoop" location on mine i cut through both sections of the floor in that hump and took my tube straight through to the frame and then sealed it up with shee tmetal. actually did that with all my tubes, i dont like the whole sandwich floor plate deal. cut a hole and take the tube straight down and plate the floor back in. ive done plenty river crossings with no water comin back in. pics of mine (red cab) and a friends (black cab) for reference.
in my opinion you should have both. a tube runnin up along the front of the rear window - refered to as the "b pillar"- and then one at the back of the cab "c pillar"
 

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bikesandpipes

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That's some really nice cage work. Are you racing it? What category?
 

JOLENE_THE_RANGER

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That's some really nice cage work. Are you racing it? What category?
Thank you sir. its race legal, but ive yet to race it. mainly just for fun!
its a very slow 1450 class ranger for m.o.r.e and s.n.o.r.e racing organizations and (i think) class 7 in score. in the 1450 class you have a "open" motor and suspension standard for either a full size or mini truck. meaning no rules. so theres basically only 300+ hp trucks in that class. a v6 ranger would be in the back of the pack no doubt haha. class 7 in score is limited to v6 mini truck open suspension with a track width max of 86"
 

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