cmp 360

[smegun]

I replaced the sensor the drive felt great the first sensor broke a lead I repaired it but it tested bad always giving me 12 volts so I discarded it .. I replaced it with one that tested good and re installed the syncro I backprobed the sensor at 26 atdc and thought I had it right

unfortunately the truck is running the way I left it before a new head job I still got stumbles and bad fluctuations and what appears to be an eth of smoke floating around my engine my question is can I be 180 out on the syncro and the truck still run???

….will residual fuel and spark run the truck although erratic ?? ….this is my second set of gaskets I cleaned all my fuel injectors this time got new fuel pump flushed gaped and even checked the harness for cross talk
!!!there is all new rockers lifters rods and new valve job truck still runs the way I left it!! a miss frothing slosher
:/

...the manual I picked up says start the syncro out at the mark at right angle sink the syncro the vane moves in a clock wise direction twards the arrow backpobe the syncro tightener down and insert your rods …. this is the pick at 26 deg atdc am I in the right spot and is it possible the truck is running 180 out on the fuel sync


originally I parked the truck after doing a tensioner job I replaced the guides and tensioner I had a mishap I was using air on the crank gear and it slipped the key way and turned my cam I put it back in order lining up the key ways thinking nothing about the possibility of accidently turning the cam out of position with the syncro the truck ran the same way as before I began the tensioner job missing and sloppy and sat for almost two seasons ...after further reading and investigations the heads came off to reveal a recessed valve as some relief to the changing of many parts and the beginning of my next attempts to get the truck operational

details:

the first set of gaskets after the head job did not solve the problem still ran the same as parked I tore the top off and began the back probe of the cam sensor I thought I had it right to replace the sensor and catch the compression stroke looking at the valves but maybe i was wrong and set the cmp on the wrong stroke ????

all the rods lifters and rockers still looked new and pristine and now my second set of gaskets may have been wasted on the same problem with the syncro or i have bottom end problem not sure getting codes sporatic …. dpfe coils fuel trims etc but these could be from a poor sync …… the way it stumbles around runs clean for a few and then off and on and building up smoke as it gets warm leaving a check engine light is a terrible indication ….I don't see why they just didn't run everything from the crank window there asking a lot from a tom with syncing voltage drops in the pan

 

[RonD]

What year and what engine are you talking about?
Doesn't read like a 1994 explorer, but maybe

Cam sensor is a secondary sensor, the Crank sensor is primary
If Cam sensor doesn't match Crank sensor then computer ignores it and will set a code, need the YEAR for what code that would be

Yes, you can insert cam synchro 180deg out

If cam synchro was installed when "it slipped the key way " then nothing was changed, as long as you lined up the cam gear and crank gear marks when chain was installed.

Just unplug the cam sensor and see how it runs, cam sensor was added for better MPG and lower emissions, EFI engines ran just fine without a cam sensor for many years

With "all the codes" maybe the computer is the problem

 

[smegun]

yea 94 xlt 4x4 auto my next experiment is to change the crank sensor and possibly re adjust the cam sensor its the one with the window that you have to back probe .... I have two ump 1 brains that I have experimented with also although one came out of a limited with 50k ... I don't think it matters it was the one I was using before the fall the codes at least most of them are the same on the pcm s ..... ump1

 

[smegun]

two cam rotations for 1 crank rotation my problem might be that I cant tell the compression stroke

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Put your finger over the spark plug hole and crank. When it blows out that is compression. Then line up timing marks on crank to put the crank in exact position.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

OR, leave #1 spark plug in and take out the other 5 spark plugs(V6 engine), turn crank by hand until it stops, thats compression stroke #1

 

[smegun]

a little a literal : when i start to compress the gas what good would it be when im farting: / i was told to wait for the rev that both valves were closed but im rehashing here :/ ? ….theoretical : the sensors need to say when to drop the negative lines letting in the mix to compress so shouldn't it be the TDC mark / rev right after that exhaust valve was open ? …... wondering when turning the crank im coming up to the right tdc .......... i was telling someone that i couldn't seem to sink the Cam syncro assembly at TDC but could at ATDC is there a reason i couldn't like a notch to keep me from or is that the wear /scratch in the splines ….. p.s there is no install tool for the window job it was a little like crawling in the mud

 

[smegun]

a little a literal : when i start to compress the gas what good would it be when im farting: /

i was told to wait for the rev that both valves were closed but im rehashing here :/ ? ….theoretical the sensors need to inform the PCM when to drop the negative lines letting in the mix to compress shouldn't be the point after the exhaust valve was open ....not sure when turning the crank i was coming up to the right tdc thought i did it right as described the tdc when both valves were closed which should be the compressed stroke (bang) also was telling someone that i couldn't seem to sink the Cam syncro assembly at TDC but could at ATDC any reason i couldn't ?? like a notch to keep me from doing the opposite or or is it just natural wear in the splines/user error ....


someone gave me an offer on a 95 ohv 4.o motor with 130k with a guarantee for under 300 but it probably has a different sensor that has a tool to install the 94 is a little like a crawl through the mud on your belly i asked the guy about the cam sensor he said it didn't matter but im not getting all up and down about batch fire at the moment as default a pita pin 58 i got unburned gas and rich lean codes with a flash from my cell every reboot